^  PRINCETON,  N.  J. 


Purchased  by  the  Hammill  Missionary  Fund. 

DT  471    .W54  1866  >, 

Whiton,  Samuel  J. 
Glimpses  of  West  Africa 


Nimibci 


Digitized  by  tine  Internet  Arcliive 
in  2015 


https://arcliive.org/details/glirTipsesofwestafOOwhit_0 


i 


i 


GLIMPSES 

OF 

West  Africa. 

WITH 

SKETCHES  OF  MISSIONARY  LABOR. 

REV.  SAMUEL  J.  WHITON. 


AMERICAN  TRACT  SOCIETY, 

150  NASSAU  STREET,  NEW  YORK. 


Entered,  according  to  act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  ISSS,  by 
THE  AMERICAN  TRACT  SOCIETY, 
la  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Coai-t  of  tlie  District  of  Massacliujct 


P  11  E  F  A  C  E . 


The  larger  j)ortion  of  the  following  pages  was 
written  cluriiig  odd  moments,  snatched  from  the 
])ressing  cares  and  labors  of  a  missionary  life  in 
West  Africa.  The  remainder  has  been  prepared 
since  failing  health  compelled  my  return  to  Amer- 
ica. 

This  little  volume  does  not  profess  to  be  an  ex- 
haustive "or  scientific  treatise  on  West  Afiica,  but 
merel}'  to  gWc  a  few  glimpses  of  that  strange,  wild 
land,  and  its  degraded  inhabitants,  —  such  as  I  have 
been  able  to  gather  during  my  missionary  residence 
;;ud  travels  there. 

These  chapters  rcla!:e  mostly  to  the  country  and 
tribes  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Mexdi  ]Missiox,  be- 
tween six  and  eight  degrees  north  latitude.  Other 
parts  of  the  coast  differ,  ^^erhaps,  in  some  respects, 
though  the  general  features  are  much  the  same. 

If  these  pages  shall  arouse  in  any  heart  a  deeper 
interest  in  Africa  and  the  missionary  "work  there, 
the  autlior  will  feel  that  he  has  not  labored  in  vain. 

S.  J.  AV. 

AVestfobd,  Cosn. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTEE  I. 
The  Country  page  5 

CHAPTER  II. 
Climate,  Fevers,  Tornadoes   14 

CHAPTEE  III. 
Productions,  Travelling,  Canoes  —   30 

CHAPTEE  IV. 

Towns,  Houses,  Manufactures-   58 

CHAPTEE  V. 

The  People,  Dress,  Language,  Food   75 

CHAPTEE  VI. 
Habits,  Superstition      94 

CHAPTEE  VII. 
Witchcraft,  the  Furrow,  Cries,  etc.   112 

CHAPTEE  VIII. 

Government,  Palavers,  War,  Slavery  123 

CHAPTEE  IX. 
The  Work  of  Missions   132 

CHAPTEE  X. 

Wayside  Teachings   139 

CHAPTEE  XI. 
Sabbath  Labors   149 

CHAPTEE  XII. 
A  Missionary  Tour   -  161 

CHAPTEE  XIII. 
Sierra  Leone   181 


GLIMPSES  OP  WEST  AFEICA. 


CHAPTER  I. 

THE  COUNTRY. 

Ex\JlS  ago,  in  a  brown  school-house,  thou- 
sands of  miles  distant  among  New  Eng- 
land hills,  I  well  remember  how  we  used 
to  gaze  at  the  map  of  Africa,  and  what  a 
mystery  seemed  to  surround  it.  Here  and  there 
along  the  coast,  rivers  and  towns  were  marked 
down,  but  the  interior  was  one  vast  blank.  A 
vail  of  impenetrable  darkness  concealed  it,  and 
the  few  remarks  that  were  given  only  made  it 
appear  wilder  and  moi'e  mysterious.  Asia  and 
the  islands  of  the  sea  were  looked  at  in  a  dif- 
ferent light,  for  much  more  was  known  con- 
cerning them.  Since  then,  great  progress  ias 
been  made  in  the  exploration  of  Africa.  Liv- 

5 


6 


GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 


iugstoue  has  penetrated  the  jungles  and  kraals 
of  the  south  ;  Krapf  and  Burton  and  Spoke 
have  journeyed  far  inland  from  the  cast ;  Barth 
and  Gerard,  from  the  north,  have  visited  and 
explored  countries  before  unknown ;  and  other 
venturesome  travelers  have  passed  through  re- 
gions rich  and  beautiful  as  Eden,  and  teeming 
with  inhabitants.  But  there  are  yet  immense 
stretches  of  country  where  the  foot  of  white 
man  never  trod.  Africa  is  still  a  wild,  myste- 
rious land.  Its  lofty  mountains  rise  in  silent 
grandeur,  seen  only  by  the  dusky  heathen.  Its 
silvery  lakes  repose  in  beauty,  disturbed  by 
naught  save  the  light  canoe.  Its  majestic  riv- 
ers roll  down  luxuriant  valleys,  where  no  sound 
is  heard  but  the  wild  song  or  fierce  war-cry  of 
untamed  men.  Its  crowded  towns  and  villages 
are  the  scenes  of  many  horrid  customs  and 
cruelties.  The  tropic  sun  looks  down  upon  a 
region  where  nature  spreads  her  rarest  beau- 
ties ;  but  over  all,  like  a  pall  of  death,  rests  tlio 
cloud  of  heathenism. 

No  country  in  the  world  affords  a  grander 
field  for  missionary  enterprise  tiian  Africa.  It 


THE  couxmr. 


7 


stretches  through  seveuty-ouo  degrees  of  loagl- 
tude,  and  scveuty-two  of  hxtit-ude.  Its  popu- 
lation is  estimated  to  be  two  liuudrcd  millions, 
but  very  few  of  whom  can  be  called  even  nom- 
inal Christians.  Nearly  all  ar  i  heathens  or  Mo- 
hammedans. It  is  ^truc  that  great  difficulties 
lie  in  the  way  of  christianizing  Africa.  An 
enfeebling  climate,  wild  beasts  and  wilder  men, 
toils,  sufferings,  privations,  disappointments, 
and  deatii  itself,  —  these  the  missionary  must 
expect  to  meet.  But  God's  commands  are  im- 
perative. "  Go  ye  into  all  the  world,  and 
preach  the  gospel  to  every  creature."  He  did 
not  say,  Go  to  the  pleasantest  spot  you  can  find, 
go  where  it  is  very  healthy,  —  ah,  no!  "The 
soul  that  sinneth,  it  shall  die,"  was  as  surely 
spoken  of  the  benighted  millions  of  Africa  as 
f  those  of  more  salubrious  climes.  These  mil- 
foils must  not  be  left  to  perisli  in  darkness. 
Africa  viust  he  redeemed,  though  thousands  shall 
fall  in  tlie  holy  work.  The  sweet  story  of  the 
cross  must  be  repeated  from  hill-top  to  hill-top, 
and  from  valley  to  valley,  till  her  sons  and 
daughters  shall  sit  at  Jesus'  feet,  clothed  and 


8 


GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AEItlCA. 


in  their  right  mind.  Paul  faced  perils  un- 
numbered, shrank  not  from  death  itself,  gloried 
in  his  crosses,  and  was  willing  to  become  all 
things  to  all  men  that  he  might  save  some  ;  and 
so  should  the  church  of  to-day  lay  its  all  at  the 
Saviour's  feet,  and,  asking  not  why  or  where- 
fore, go  forward  in  the  simple  path  of  duty. 

The  very  name  of  West  Africa  carries  an 
indefinable  feeling  of  half-dread  to  many  a 
heart.  So  much  has  been  said  of  its  deadly 
climate,  and  so  many  have  early  fallen  on  the 
coast,  that  some  good  men  have  been  ready  to 
advise  the  abandonment  of  the  field,  and  the 
concentration  of  forces  in  a  more  favored  spot. 
The  country  is  doubtless  unhealthy,  and  of 
many  an  ardent  young  missionary  it  might  be 
truly  written, — 

"  He,  the  young  and  strong,  who  clierished 
Noble  longings  for  the  strife. 
By  the  waysiJe  fell  and  perished. 
On  the  threshold  march  of  life." 

But  it  should  be  remembered  that  not  one  has 
fallen  in  vain.  Being  dead,  they  yet  speak. 
Prom  their  lonely  graves  beneath  the  palm  and 


THE  COUNTRY. 


9 


cocoa  go  forth  potent  voices,  speaking  of  a  life 
of  toil  and  suffering,  and  an  early  death  in  a 
foreign  land,  for  what  ?  —  for  the  privilege  of 
telling  of  Clirist  to  those  who  sit  in  darkness 
and  the  sliadow  of  death.  The  eye  of  Him  who 
notes  even  a  falling  sparrow  never  overlooks  the 
herald  of  the  cross.  And  besides,  the  unhealthi- 
ncss  of  the  coast  is  often  exaggerated.  Many  are 
able  to  live  and  labor  here  for  years.  It  is  with 
the  hope  of  awakening  in  some  heart  a  deeper 
interest  in  West  Africa  and  its  perishing  thou- 
sands, that  these  few  sketches  of  the  country 
and  people  are  written. 

Bishop  Heber,  in  that  beautiful  hymn  that 
has  become  the  rallying  cry  of  missions,  sings 
of  the  land,  — 

"  'Wbei-e  Afric's  sunny  fountains 
Roll  down  their  golden  sand." 

West  Africa  is  truly  a  sunny  land,  and  na- 
ture has  done  much  to  make  it  lovely  to  the 
eye.  To  the  traveler,  approaching  the  coast 
after  tossing  for  weeks  or  months  on  the  bois- 


10 


CLIMPSES  OF  WKST  AFRICA. 


torous  ocean,  it  seems  almost  a  paradise.  Here 
and  there  the  mountains  jut  boldly  down  to  the 
shore,  covered  with  the  wealth  of  tropic  vcge- 
latio:i ;  and  anon  there  is  a  level  line  of  coast, 
oa  which  the  graceful  palms  stand  like  senti- 
nels against  a  background  of  softly-tinted  slcy, 
while  the  blue  hills  rise  dimly  in  the  distance. 
The  quaint  villages,  v/ith  their  brown  walls  and 
thatched  roofs,  repose  amid  groves  of  orange 
and  cocoa,  surrounded  by  little  patches  of  cul- 
tivated ground.  Now  and  then  green  iilanda 
lie  like  gems  in  the  smooth  sea.  Gorgeous 
flowers,  of  all  the  hues  of  the  rainbow,  bloom 
on  tiie  hill-sides  and  in  the  valleys.  And  over 
all  rests  the  full,  rich  light  of  the  tropic  sun, 
making  cverj^thing  seem  yet  more  beautiful. 
No  wonder  that  the  new-comer,  standing  on  the 
deck  of  an  in-bound  vessel,  and  gazing  on  all 
this  loveliness,  feels  his  heart  glow  with  rap- 
ture. 

"West  African  scenery,  as  a  general  rule,  looks 
best  at  a  distance.  Wlien  the  traveler  walks 
among  the  hills  g,nd  valleys  that  looked  so  fairy- 
like from  the  sea,  he  finds  a  dense  growth  of 


THE  couxtht. 


11 


bushes,  and  tall,  rank  grass  and  weeds,  tlirongli 
which  it  is  often  difficult  to  force  his  way,  and 
which  hides  tlie  prospect  beyond.  Poisonous 
snakes  crawl  through  the  jungles.  Some  of  the 
gayest  flowers  have  no  fragrance.  At  places, 
the  air  is  laden  with  miasma.  But  uotvrith- 
standing  this,  there  is  much  to  charm  the  senses. 
Tlic  idea  suggested  to  the  mind  is  that  nature 
has  been  prodigal  of  her  gifts,  everything  is  so 
rich,  so  gorgeous,  so  abundant :  — 

"  A  world  of  wonder,  where  creation  seems 
No  more  the  works  of  Nature,  but  her  dreams; 
Great,  wild  and  beautiful,  bej'ond  control, 
She  reigns  in  all  the  freedom  of  her  soul. 
Where  none  can  check  her  bounty  when  she  showers 
O'er  the  gay  wilderness  her  fruits  and  flowers." 

Much  of  the  country  bordering  on  the  sea  is 
low  and  swampy.  Tlie  banks  of  the  rivers, 
near  their  mouths,  are  lined  with  the  man- 
groves, which  vary  in  size  from  a  bush  to  trees 
a  foot  and  a  half  in  diameter.  Tlio  roots 
branch  out  several  feet  from  the  surface  of  the 
earth,  and,  interlacing  with  each  other,  form  an 
impenetrable  net-work.    The  mangroves  are 


12  GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 

uevei*  found  beyond  the  reach  of  salt  water. 
Some  of  the  land  is  so  low  as  to  be  overflowed 
during  the  rains,  and  other  parts  arc  elevated 
and  capable  of  cultivation  through  the  whole 
year.  Native  villages  are  scattered  all  over  the 
lowlands,  and  a  few  foreign  traders  have  estab- 
lished themselves  in  the  healthier  localities.  A 
few  miles  from  the  sea,  the  country  is  more 
broken  and  hilly,  and  the  scenery  more  varied. 
There  are  vast  forests  of  lofty  trees,  so  dense 
that  the  missionary  can  walk  through  them  at 
noon-day  without  feeling  the  heat  of  the  vertical 
sun.  Clear  sparkling  brooks  go  rippling  along 
their  pebbly  beds,  furnishing  delicious  drink 
for  the  weary  traveler.  The  towns  are  largci* 
and  better  built,  and  the  people  more  intelli- 
gent. A  trip  among  the  hills  is  full  of  inter- 
est and  adventure,  and  gives  one  an  insight 
into  African  life  that  could  not  be  gained  by 
a  residence  of  years  on  the  coast. 

West  Africa  is  rich  in  large  rivers,  v.'hicli 
di-ain  the  vast  interior  regions ;  but  scarcely 
one  has  been  explored  to  its  source.  They  are 
thickly  lined  with  populous  towns,  and  the 


THE  COUXTJIY. 


13 


scenery  is  often  enchanting.  Giant  cotton-trees 
tower  towards  the  sky,  the  palm,  cocoa  and  oi- 
angc  arc  abundant,  and  flowering  vines  and 
shrubs  line  the  banks.  As  the  missionary 
journeys  up  and  down  these  rivers,  telling  of 
Jesus  in  town  and  village,  scarcely  a  sign  of  civ- 
ilization meets  his  eye.  The  light  log  canoe 
of  the  native  skims  over  the  smooth  water,  and 
sometimes  the  heavier  boat  of  a  trader,  laden 
"with  palm-oil  or  rice,  glides  slowly  along,  pro- 
pelled by  half-naked  oarsmen.  Amid  all  the 
beauties  of  the  scenery,  however,  there  is  al- 
ways enough  of  heathenism  visible  to  sadden 
the  heart. 


CHAPTER  II. 


CLIMATE  —  FEVERS  —  TORNADOES. 

EST  Africa  is  a  land  of  everlasting  sum- 
mer. The  forests  never  lose  their  roLes 
g'^cen.  The  flowers  arc  forever  bud- 
ding and  blooming.  No  cold  winds  ever 
sweep  over  its  hills  and  valleys.  The  torrid 
sun,  day  by  day  and  year  after  year,  pours  down 
its  fierce  rays,  except  when  obscured  by  clouds. 
The  heat  is  often  very  intense,  the  mercury 
rising  above  ninety  degrees  in  tlie  coolest  part 
of  the  house.  It  seldom  falls  below  seventy- 
five  degrees  ;  thus  making  the  temperature  quite 
even.  There  is  usually  a  light  breeze,  which 
tempers  the  heat  of  the  sun.  The  nights  are 
sometimes  so  warm,  and  mosquitoes  so  abun- 
dant, that  it  is  difficult  to  sleep.  It  is  danger- 
ous for  foreigners  to  expose  themselves  to  a 


CUM  All:,  rriKus,  ron.\Ai)0::s. 


].') 


nooii-uay  sun  without  some  protection  from  its 
rays ;  but  the  natives  will  work  all  day  with 
uncovered  heads,  or  sleep  out  of  doors,  with  the 
utmost  impunity.  The  want  of  cold  water  is 
severely  felt  by  those  coming  from  higher  lati- 
tudes. Often,  wdien  the  fever  has  been  burn- 
ing in  my  veins,  have  I  felt  that  I  would  give 
almost  anything  for  a  cup  of  water  from  the 
mossy  well  of  the  old  New  England  homestead. 
Much  of  the  water  on  the  West  African  coast 
is  impure,  and  has  an  unpleasant  taste,  though 
there  are  some  clear,  sparkling  springs. 

Every  one  notices  the  absence  of  twilight  in 
Africa.  Those  beautiful,  dreamy  hours  of  more 
northern  lands  are  unknown  here.  When  the 
sun  sets  the  night  shadov/s  gather  thickly  and 
rapidly,  and  soon  there  is  no  sign  of  day  in  the 
west.  But  the  nights  are  often  extremely 
beautiful.  The  air  is  soft  and  mild,  and  the 
moon  shines  with  a  fuller,  richer  light  than  at 
home.  The  following  extracts  from  my  journal 
will  show,  more  clearly  perhaps  than  I  other- 
wise can,  the  beauty  of  these  nights  :  — 

"  Last  evening  as  I  stood  at  our  wharf,  lis- 


IG  GLIMI'SES  OF   ll'ESr  AFPICA. 

toning  to  the  sound  of  distant  oars,  it  scorned 
that  never  before  had  I  seen  anything  so  strange- 
ly lovely.  Above  stretched  the  heavens,  un- 
commonly blue  and  clear,  and  dotted  with 
sparkling  stars.  The  tropic  moon  thrcv/  a 
flood  of  magic  light  on  the  green  islands  and 
palm-lined  shore  ;  the  river  lay  before  me  blue 
and  motionless,  save  as  its  faint  ripples  broke 
on  tho  white  sand  at  my  feet ;  the  heavy  thun- 
der of  the  breakers  at  Sea  Bar,  ten  miles  dis- 
tant, came  to  my  ear,  mingled  with  wild 
snatches  of  song  from  a  heathen  village  near 
by.  How  true  are  those  lines  by  Bishop  He- 
ber :  — 

'  Every  prospect  pleases, 
And  only  man  is  vile.'  " 

"  Friday  morning,  at  two  o'clock,  we  left 
Good  Hope  for  Avery  station.  It  was  clear 
and  still,  and  the  moon  shone  brightly  as 
we  gave  tho  parting  hand  to  our  friends  and 
glided  out  on  the  smooth  waters  of  the  Sherbro. 
The  sky  was  a  deep  bluo,  with  white,  fleecy 
clouds  floating  through  it.  No  sound  broke  the 
silence  save  the  low  voices  of  our  men  and  tho 


CLIMATE.  FEVEllS,  TOIWADOES. 


17 


measured  dip  of  their  oars,  which  sparkled  in 
the  moonliglit  as  they  rose  and  fell.  The  day 
broke  gloriously  just  after  we  entered  the  Bar- 
groo  river  :  —  first  a  faint  tinge  of  light  under- 
ncatli  the  morning  star ;  then  a  few  crimson 
streaks  creeping  up  the  eastern  sky ;  next  a 
blending  of  the  softest,  most  wondrous  hues 
stretching  well-nigh  to  the  zenith ;  and  fmally 
the  majestic  king  of  day  riding  up  the  heavens 
from  behind  the  far-off  hills,  and  reflecting  his 
beams  in  the  calm  river  along  which  we  were 
gliding." 

Some  regard  the  night  air  of  Africa  as  almost 
fatal  to  foreigners,  but  I  doubt  whether  the 
opinion  is  correct.  I  have  journeyed  and  slept 
in  open  boats  on  the  rivers  of  this  coast  at  all 
hours  of  the  night,  and  was  never  conscious  of 
any  ill  effects  from  the  exposure.  We  always 
aim,  however,  to  keep  at  a  distance  from  the 
miasma-breeding  lowlands. 

There  are  hut  two  seasons  in  West  Africa,- — 
the  "  dries  "  and  the  "rains."  They  each  last  for 
about  six  months.  At  the  beginning  and  end 
tbcy  are  so  blended  together  that  it  is  difficult 


J8 


GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 


to  fix  upon  a  dividing  point.  The  rainy  sea- 
son begins  dnring  the  spring  months,  and  the 
dry  season  in  autnmn,  though  on  different  parts 
of  the  coast  the  time  varies  widely ;  and  even 
in  tlie'  same  place,  like  northern  winters,  it  is 
sometimes  earlier  and  sometimes  later.  The 
rains  commence  at  the  south,  and  pass  up  the 
coast.  During  their  prevalence  vegetation 
thrives  luxuriantly.  The  forests  are  covered 
•with  the  densest  foliage.  Grass,  weeds  and 
bushes  become  rank  and  tall.  Leaves  sprout  out 
as  if  by  magic,  and  grow  with  astonishing  ra- 
pidity. Each  particle  of  soil  is  covered  with  a 
mantle  of  living  green,  and  it  requires  much 
labor  to  keep  foot-paths  cleared.  The  swamps 
and  lowlands  are  flooded  vath  water,  but  the 
highlands  are  so  porous  that  walking  is  tolera- 
ble immediately  after  the  most  violent  showers. 

The  quantity  of  rain  which  falls  is  immense, 
sometimes  averaging  more  than  an  inch  a  day 
for  three  successive  months.  It  falls,  too,  with 
a  rapidity  exceeding  the  storms  of  the  United 
States.  The  rains,  however,  are  not  so  constant 
as  many  are  led  to  believe.    Sometimes  they 


CLIMATE,  FEVEIIS,  TOnXADOES. 


19 


couliiuic  for  a  Tvcck  with  but  little  cessation, 
and  again  there  are  intervals  of  bright,  beautiful 
weather,  lasting  for  several  days.  The  pleasant 
days  of  the  rainy  season  are  more  lovely  than 
those  of  the  "  dries."  The  sky  is  of  a  darker 
blue,  and  the  air  clcai'er  and  cooler ;  and  na- 
ture seems  to  be  more  wildly  bountiful  in  her 
gifts  of  foliage,  flowers,  fruits  and  siuilight,  than 
ever. 

Occasional  showers  occur  during  the  dry  sea- 
son, though  sometimes  for  weeks  together  not  a 
drop  of  rain  falls.  Towards  its  close  the  grass 
becomes  dry,  and  the  leaves  of  some  trees  grow 
faded  and  yellow  ;  the  horizon  and  distant  hills 
are  half  obscured  by  a  soft  haze,  and  an  air  of 
dreamy  voluj)tuousncss  reigns  around.  Tha 
constant  heat  of  the  vertical  sun  is  very  oppres- 
sive, and  brings  on  a  feeling  of  languor  and 
weariness.  Houses  crack,  and  everything  be- 
comes so  parched  that  the  first  showers  are 
hailed  with  joy.  The  dry  season  is  the  most 
favorable  for  missionary  tours  through  the  coun- 
try, for  during  the  rains  the  paths  are  often 
flooded,  and  the  traveler  is  liable  to  a  drenching 


20  GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 

at  any  moment.  The  hottest  weather  is  at  the 
close  of  the  "  dries,"  when  sometimes  the  at- 
mosphere is  so  oppressive  that  the  slightest 
exertion  bathes  one  in  perspiration.  At  the 
commencement  of  the  dry  season  a  periodical 
wind,  called  the  harmattan,  prevails  on  a  part 
of  the  coast.  It  is  strongest  in  the  early  part 
of  the  day,  and  frequently  subsides  in  the  after- 
noon, when  a  sea-breeze  springs  up.  This  wind 
blows  from  the  north-east,  and  is  regarded  as 
unhealthy  by  the  older  foreign  residents  on  the 
coast,  who  often  suffer  much  from  fever  during 
its  prevalence.  It  is  so  cool  as  to  be  very  pleas- 
ant to  those  who  have  lately  come  from  colder 
climes,  and  does  not  affect  them  unfavorably. 
The  natives  complain  of  cold  when  it  blows 
strongly.  The  harmattan  has  peculiar  drying 
properties,  and  gives  a  parched,  cracking  sen- 
sation to  the  skin,  which  at  other  times  is  moist 
with  perspiration.  During  its  prevalence,  a 
fine,  red  dust  gathers  on  leaves,  clothes,  and 
houses ;  sometimes  hardly  visible,  and  at  others 
plainly  seen.  The  theories  accounting  for  tliis 
are  various.    One  is,  that  the  fine  dust  origi- 


CLIilATE,  FEVEHS,  TORNADOES.  21 

nally  comos  from  the  great  desert  of  Sahara, 
which  lies  iu  the  direction  from  which  the  wind 
blows.  The  air  is  very  thick  and  hazy  at  this 
season,  and  it  is  impossible  to  sec  but  a  short 
distance.  Ships  approaching  the  coast  are  sub- 
ject to  much  danger  on  this  account. 

At  the  beginning  and  end  of  the  rainy  season 
West  Africa  is  visited  by  violent  tornadoes. 
They  come  from  the  mountains  to  the  east,  and 
pass  seaward.  Vessels  near  the  coast  are  occa- 
sionally wrecked  by  them.  They  often  rise 
suddenly,  and  rage  with  great  fury,  and  are  a 
source  of  much  terror  to  timid  people.  The 
following  extract  from  my  journal  of  a  coast 
voyage  will  give  some  idea  of  the  character  of 
these  storms  on  the  water :  — 

"  As  I  went  upon  deck  Tuesday  morning,  I 
was  rejoiced  to  find  the  sails  full,  and  felt  that 
buoyancy  of  spirits  which  is  always  produced 
by  a  fresh  breeze  after  a  calm.  I  noticed,  how- 
ever, low  down  in  the  northern  sky,  dark,  heavy 
masses  of  cloud.  The  wind  continued  to  fresh- 
en, and  the  white  foam-caps  grew  thicker  and 
thicker  on  the  water.    We  went  to  breakfast  in 


22 


GLIMPSES  Oh'  WEST  AFUICA. 


excellent  spirits,  hoping  for  a  favorable  bj-eezo 
tliroiigli  the  day  ;  but  on  returning  to  the  deck 
wo  found  the  dark  cloud  had  rapidly  risen,  and 
betokened  a  squall.  Swiftly  and  more  swiftly 
the  heavy  mass  mounted  the  northern  heavens, 
until  its  ragged  edges  almost  reached  the  ze- 
nith. Our  captain,  usually  so  much  at  ease, 
now  stood  on  the  quarter-deck,  anxiously  watch- 
ing the  rising  storm.  He  had  at  first  been  de- 
ceived as  to  its  magnitude,  as,  unlike  most  tor- 
nadoes, it  was  unaccompanied  by  thunder ;  but 
now,  as  a  deep  green  tinge  began  to  show  itself 
in  the  lower  cloud,  the  order  was  given  to  take 
in  sail.  The  sea  grew  black  as  ink,  dotted  here 
and  there  with  spots  of  snowy  foam.  As  far 
out  as  the  eye  could  reach,  a  long  line  of  vapor 
could  be  seen,  rolling  down  over  the  dark  wa- 
ters. Nearer  and  nearer  it  came,  like  a  mighty 
bank  of  snow  gliding  over  the  inky  sea.  It 
was  a  moment  of  suspense.  If  the  tornado 
struck  us  under  full  sail,  it  would  capsize  the 
vessel,  and  we  were  lost.  "  Hard  up !  hard 
up ! "  roared  the  captain  to  our  helmsman,  and 
the  vessel  quickly  turned  its  back  to  the  coming 


CLIMATE,  FEVERS,  TORKADOES. 


23 


gale,  and  flew  through  the  boilhig  waters. 
"  All  hands  on  dock ! "  "  Take  in  overytliing ! " 
— and  the  stentorian  voice  rang  loud  above  the 
roar  of  wind  and  waves.  For  a  moment  all 
was  confusion.  The  loud-toned  commands  for 
furling  the  different  sails,  and  the  ready  re- 
sponse of  "  Aye,  aye,  sir ! "  in  swift  succession  ; 
the  rattling  of  ropes  and  creaking  of  timbex's ; 
the  heavy  tramp  of  the  sailors  as  they  abso- 
lutely rushed  from  one  rope  to  another,  would 
have  made  the  coldest  heart  beat  with  excite- 
ment. And  now  the  storm  was  upon  us.  The 
wind  blew  with  terrific  fury,  but  the  rain  fell 
in  such  torrents  as  to  prevent  tlie  sea  from  ris- 
ing to  any  great  hight.  As  I  looked  from  the 
cabin  whidow  it  was  a  vast,  boiling  mass  of 
green  and  white  ;  but  our  sails  were  mostly 
furled,  and  we  rode  safely  through  it.  The 
gust  was  soon  over,  the  breeze  died  away,  and 
again  we  were  on  the  swells  in  the  heat  of  a 
tropic  calm.  "We  escaped  with  the  loss  of  a 
part  of  our  main-royal  and  top-gallant  sails." 

On  land,  of  course,  the  aspect  of  the  tornadoes 
is  different.    Hero  are  two  hasty  sketches  :  — 


24 


GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 


"  Wednesday,  as  I  was  calling  on  the  lieatlicu 
people,  I  heard  low  mutterings  of  tluxnder  far 
to  the  cast  among  the  hills.  Looking  in  that 
direction,  I  saw  a  small  arch  of  black  cloud, 
and  underneath  a  greenish-white  tinge.  It  was 
rising  swiftly  toward  the  zenith,  and  I  hurried 
homeward.  Hardly  five  minutes  had  passed 
before  the  whole  eastern  sky  was  vailed,  and  a 
gloom  like  night  rested  around  iis.  All  was 
silent,  oppressive,  breathless.  Scarcely  a  ripple 
disturbed  tlie  glassy  smoothness  of  the  river. 
Nature  seemed  suddenly  paralyzed,  waiting  for 
some  awful  outburst.  Fii'st  came  a  light  puff 
of  air,  then  another,  and  another,  stronger 
and  yet  stronger.  Curling  waves  swept  along 
the  inky  river,  the  tree-tops  swayed  wildly,  and 
the  little  islands  a  half-mile  avv^ay  were  vailed 
with  storm-clouds.  Doors  and  windows  Avere 
hastily  closed,  and  the  tornado  burst  upon  us 
in  all  its  fury.  Tlic  scene  was  awfully  grand. 
Nature  was  holding  a  carnival  of  vfildness. 
Fierce  gusts  of  wind  raged  and  roared  among 
the  trees,  stripping  tliem  of  branches,  scattering 
rubbish  in  every  direction,  and  shaking  the 


CLIMATE,  FEVERS,  TOIUVADOES. 


25 


house  with  tlicir  power.  The  rain  fell  in  slieets, 
wliirling  and  flying  hither  and  thither,  and  del- 
xiging  the  earth.  Flashes  of  lightning  followed 
each  other  in  quick  succession,  and  now  and 
then  above  the  roar  of  the  tempest  we  could 
hear  the  loud  roll  of  the  thunder.  The  storm 
lasted  nearly  an  hour,  and  then  came  a  calm. 
The  next  day  marks  of  the  tornado  could  be 
seen  everyv/here.  Houses  were  partially  un- 
I'oofed,  and  trees  prostrated." 

"  On  Sunday  afternoon  a  fearful  tornado 
swept  up  from  the  south.  The  morning  had 
been  hot  and  bright,  and  the  air  close  and  sti- 
fling. About  three  P.  M.  we  heard  thunder  mut- 
tering in  the  distance,  and  in  a  few  minutes 
the  hurricane  was  upon  us.  It  was  awfully 
wild,  fully  coming  up  to  those  descriptions  that 
are  sometimes  regarded  as  fabulous.  The  rain 
fell  in  masses ;  the  wind  whirled  and  raged 
with  terrific  violence,  tearing  large  branches 
from  trees,  unroofing  houses,  and  carrying  ev- 
erything before  it ;  the  lurid  lightning  flaslied 
incessantly,  and  the  thunder  roared  and  crashed 
and  rattled  in  one  continuous  peal.    A  dark- 


2G 


GLIMI'SKS  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 


ness  liko  night  settled  round,  and  the  noise  of 
tlie  elements  was  deafening.  It  lasted  an  lionr, 
sometimes  partly  dying  away,  and  again  renew- 
ing its  violence.  Tlie  quantity  of  rain  whicli 
fell  must  have  heen  enormous.  The  wind  tore 
off  the  iron  roofing  of  the  mission-house  like 
paper.  In  tlie  country  villages  around,  much 
-damage  was  done.  Many  houses  were  unroofed, 
and  some  torn  down,  and  numerous  trees  were 
prostrated." 

The  most  lovely  weather  often  succeeds  these 
torrid  storms.  The  sky  is  a  dark,  rich  blue, 
with  silvery  clouds  floating  here  and  there. 
The  sunlight  dances  and  glimmers  on  the  grace- 
ful groves  of  palm  and  cocoa.  The  giant  cot- 
ton-tree puts  on  a  fresher  green,  and  its  smooth 
leaves  glisten  in  the  light.  Gorgeous  flowers 
bloom  on  every  side,  and  the  breeze  is  fragrant 
with  tlic  breath  of  orange-blossoms.  All  is 
quiet,  calm,  beautiful,  almost  fairy-like,  —  a 
perfect  contrast  to  the  fierce  strife  of  the  preced- 
ing day. 

Gales  of  wind  are  not  experienced  on  this 
coast,  but  during  the  rainy  season  the  wind 


CLIMATE,  FEVEJiS,  TORNADOES. 


27 


sometimes  blows  strongly  from  the  south,  hi 
the  dry  season,  northerly  winds  prevail. 

West  Africa  has  been  called  "  the  white 
man's  grave,"  on  account  of  the  large  number 
of  foreigners  who  have  died  here.  Fever  and 
dysentery  are  the  two  great  scourges  of  the  cli- 
mate. All  Avho  come  must  expect  to  go  through 
a  season  of  acclimation ;  but  many  become  so 
habituated  to  the  country  as  to  live  here  in  tol- 
erable health  for  years.  There  are  those  who 
have  resided  on  the  coast  for  twenty  or  thirty 
years,  and  bid  fair  to  live  for  as  many  more. 
Others  are  compelled  to  leave  at  once  or  die. 
So  much  has  been  written  of  the  deadly  nature 
of  the  climate,  that  many  come  with  a  morbid 
fear,  which  greatly  tends  to  shorten  their  lives. 
Some,  if  attacked  with  the  dreaded  "  fever," 
become  so  frightened  as  to  give  up  all  hope  of 
life,  and  of  course  they  die  ;  for  the  mind  ex- 

-  erts  a  wonderful  influence  over  the  body  in  this 
disease.  A  cheerful,  hopeful  spirit  is  absolutely 
uidispen  sable  in  African  fever.  Care  and  pru- 
dence will  do  much  towards  the  preservation  of 

^  life,  and  yet  those  who  are  the  most  tremblingly 


28 


GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 


careful  and  over-cautious  arc  usually  the  first 
to  fall.  The  missionary,  from  the  nature  of  his 
work,  is  obliged  to  pass  through  many  expo- 
sures ;  and  he  will  find  that  a  firm,  childlike 
faith  in  such  promised  as  are  contained  in  the 
ninety-first  Psalm,  together  with  a  quiet  pi"u- 
dence,  will  be  far  better  than  over-anxiety  and 
extraordinary  measures.  The  young  missionary 
is  often  sorely  perplexed  by  the  advice  of  his 
friends.  One  says,  "  You  must  do  this,  but  you 
must  not  do  that ; "  another  says,  "  You  must 
do  that,  but  not  this."  And  nearly  all  unite  in 
believing  that  in  either  case  he  will  be  qiiite 
sure  to  die.  We  say.  Expect  to  live;  make 
yourself  as  familiar  with  the  country  as  possi- 
ble ;  and  then  use  your  own  common-sense, 
with  a  humble  trust  in  God. 

The  African  fever  bears  a  strong  resemblance 
to  the  "  fever  and  ague  "  of  the  Western  States 
of  America.  Aching  limbs,  a  general  feeling 
of  lassitude,  and  a  restlessness  of  mind  which 
makes  it  impossible  to  remain  in  one  position 
for  any  leiigth  of  time,  are  certain  signs  of  its 
approach.  A  chill,  more  or  less  violent,  usually 


CLIMATE,  FEVERS.  TOIiNADOES.  29 

succeeds,  followed  by  high  fever.  As  the  fever 
passes  off,  profuse  perspiration  sets  in,  and  the 
sufferer  feels  easier.  The  fever  is  often  accom- 
panied Avitli  violent  pains,  and  lasts  from  a  few 
hours  to  two  or  three  days.  A  second,  third, 
and  fourth  attack  follow  the  first  in  quick  suc- 
cession, unless  powerful  remedies  are  applied. 
Quinine  is  generally  regarded  as  the  best  rem- 
edy, and  sometimes  requires  to  be  administered 
m  very  large  doses.  If  taken  in  season  it  will 
often  prevent  the  attack. 

The  missionary  must  expect  to  suffer  more  or 
less  from  this  fever;  and  sometimes,  when  work 
presses  upon  him,  he  will  be  compelled  to  leave 
all,  and  lie  on  a  bed  of  sickness.  But  there  will 
be  many  hours  of  joyful  labor  for  his  Master, 
richly  repaying  him  for  all  his  weariness  and 
pains. 


CHAPTER  III. 


PRODUCTIONS  —  TRAVELING. 

'  HE  productions  of  "West  Africa  are  niimer- 
^  _^  ous.  Tho  soil  is  usually  rich,  and  if  fully 
^  developed  would  yield  an  almost  unlim- 
ited amount  of  produce.  No  winter  re- 
tards tho  growth  of  vegetation,  and  there  may 
be  a  constant  succession  of  crops  during  tho 
whole  year.  Perhaps  no  country  in  the  world 
is  more  prolific.  But  its  resources  are  so  un- 
developed that  years  must  pass  by  before  the 
world  will  really  know  what  West  Africa  can 
produce. 

The  native  methods  of  farming  are  very  sim- 
ple and  imperfect.  The  wants  of  the  African 
in  his  heathen  state  are  so  few,  and  nature  goes 
so  far  towards  supplying  them,  that  he  has  but 
little  motive  for  exertion.    The  same  spot  of 

30 


rnODUCTIONS,  tra  veling. 


31 


grouiul  is  cultivated  only  a  year  at  a  time,  and 
tlicii  loft  to  grow  up  to  "  bush."  Each  town  or 
village  has  its  farm,  soiuotinics  quite  extensive, 
where  the  people  raise  their  rice,  cassada,  sweet 
potatoes,  and  other  food.  The  farms  are  often 
situated  a  long  distance  from  the  town.  The 
land  is  first  cleared  up  with  hatchets  and  cut- 
lasses, and  afterwards  burned  over.  Almost  the 
only  implement  used  in  planting  is  a  small  hoe 
two  or  three  inches  in  diameter.  With  this  the 
ground  is  dug  over,  and  the  seed  covered.  A 
few  rude  buildings  ai^e  usually  erected  near 
by,  called  "  farm-houses  ;  "  and  during  the  sea- 
son of  planting  and  harvesting,  many  of  the 
people  remain  at  the  farm  for  days  and  weeks, 
so  that  the  towns  are  nearly  deserted.  Others 
go  in  the  morning  and  return  at  night. 

Sometimes  at  sunrise  a  curious  procession 
may  be  seen  passing  towards  the  farm.  A  few 
men  go  straggling  along,  much  at  leisure ; 
naked  children  with  large  baskets  on  their 
heads,  and  women,  some  with  infants  strapped 
on  their  backs,  and  some  bearing  heavy  bur- 
dens, follow  ;  and  all  haA^e  a  wild,  heathen  look. 


32 


GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 


At  night  they  return,  perhaps  chanting  somo 
rude  melody,  and  bringing  baskets  of  rice  and 
sweet  potatoes,  and  hampers  of  cassada. 

Rico  may  be  called  the  bread  of  West  Africa. 
It  is  raised  in  larger  quantities  than  any  other 
article,  and  is  often  exchanged  by  the  country 
people  for  cloths  and  other  manufactures  of 
civilized  lands.  It  is  sown  at  the  commence- 
ment of  the  rains,  and  ripens  at  the  close.  A 
single  farm  among  the  hills  often  covers  forty 
or  fifty  acres.  The  rice-planting  is  very  labo- 
rious, as  the  seed  must  all  be  dug  in  with  the 
small  native  hoe  ;  and  after  the  new  rice  forms 
a  constant  watch  must  be  kept,  or  the  rice-birds 
wiil  devour  it.  Cliildren  frequently  do  the 
watching,  and  the  traveler  passing  up  the  rivers 
sees  them  here  and  there,  like  statues  of  ebony, 
standing  on  a  rock  or  stump  among  the  rice. 
Tlie  hai-vesting  is  also  laborious.  The  heads 
arc  clipped  from  the  stalk,  and  the  rice  after- 
wards beaten  out  on  the  ground.  After  this  it 
requires  to  be  separated  from  the  hull  by  pound- 
ing in  a  mortar. 

Sweet  potatoes  are  abundant,  and  will  ri])eii 


PPiODUCTIOiVS,  TUAVICLIifG. 


33 


at  all  seasons  of  the  year.  Indian  corn  flour- 
ishes everywlicro,  but  is  seldom  raised  in  large 
quantities,  though  from  some  parts  of  the 
coast  it  is  exported.  A  small  grain  called 
pota  is  cultivated,  and  sometimes  eaten  in  the 
place  of  rice ;  also  the  bene-secd,  which  pro- 
duces a  kind  of  oil,  and  is  used  by  the  natives 
in  their  sauce  ;  and  the  guinea  corn,  or  "  koos- 
koos."  Ground-nuts  are  produced  in  large 
quantities,  and  exported  by  cargoes  to  foreign 
countries.  They  grow  luxuriantly,  the  tops 
resembling  rank  clover,  and  the  nuts  forming 
in  the  ground.    They  are  much  used  as  food. 

English  and  American  garden  vegetables  are 
unknown  among  the  natives,  but  are  cultivated 
with  some  success  by  foreign  residents.  Efforts 
have  been  made  to  introduce  Irish  potatoes,  but 
those  raised  have  been  few  and  imperfect. 

The  arrow-root  flourishes  well,  and  might  be 
produced  in  unlimited  quantities.  The  ginger 
of  this  coast  is  of  a  superior  quality.  Cassada 
is  largely  cultivated  in  all  the  native  farms, 
and  is  eaten  raw,  roasted,  and  boiled.  It  grows 
to  be  a  large  bush,  and  is  propagated  by  plant- 


34 


GLIMPSES  OF  WICST  AFniCA. 


iug  pieces  of  tlio  woody  stem  in  tlio  eartli.  The 
root  is  the  portion  used  for  food,  and  it  is  highly 
prized  by  the  people. 

The  coco  and  the  yam  are  two  other  esculent 
roots,  largely  produced  in  West  Africa.  The 
former  is  the  best  substitute  for  Irish  potatoes. 
The  latter  is  coarse,  dry,  and  insipid.  The 
vine  of  the  yam  bears  a  strong  resemblance  to 
polc-bcans.  Sugar-cane  grows  well  on  the 
coast.  It  is  raised  by  the  natives  for  eating  in 
small  quantities,  but  the  process  of  sugar- 
making  is  unknown  to  them.  In  Liberia  con- 
siderable sugar  is  raanvifactured  by  the  colo- 
nists for  export,  and  many  mills  have  been  estab- 
lished. The  indigo  plant  gi'ows  in  abundance 
all  over  the  country,  but  not  much  effort  has 
been  made  to  prepare  it  for  exportation.  Pep- 
per and  coffee  can  be  produced  to  almost  any 
amount.  The  latter  is  now  largely  cultivated 
on  some  parts  of  the  coast.  Cotton  has  long 
been  raised  by  the  natives,  and  used  by  them 
in  the  manufacture  of  cloths.  The  Egyptian 
and  sea-island  varieties  have  lately  been  intro- 
duced, and  have  flourished  to  some  extent. 


rnOD  UCTIONS,  tra  veling. 


35 


The  experiments  have  not  been  fully  tested. 
The  native  cotton  is  of  a  fine  texture,  and  can 
be  obtained  in  large  amounts. 

j\Iany  of  the  productions  of  West  Africa  are 
as  yet  undeveloped,  but  vast  sources  of  wealth 
will  doubtless  be  found  in  those  in  the  future. 
There  are  many  fibrous  plants,  and  gums  and 
minerals  now  almost  iiuknown,  which  will  am- 
ply repay  tlio  efforts  of  science  and  skill  to 
bring  them  into  use.  The  African  fruits  are 
almndant  and  luscioiis,  but  unsatisfying  to 
the  foreigner,  who  longs  for  his  native  aj)plc, 
peach,  and  pear.  The  orange  is  one  of  the  most 
common  and  delicious  fruits  of  Africa.  It 
grows  almost  everywhere,  and  a  bushel  can 
often  be  purchased  for  an  article  worth  a  few 
cents.  Some  trees  produce  two  regular  crops 
a  year,  and  some  have  a  constant  succession  of 
flowers  and  fruit.  There  is  a  large,  sour  or- 
ange, imfit  for  eating,  which  is  used  for  mar- 
malade. Many  of  the  oranges  are  superior  in 
flavor  to  the  finest  found  in  American  markets. 
The  trees  are  often  large  and  graceful. 

The  lime  is  abundant,  and  largely  used  by 


36 


GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFIUCA. 


the  natives  with  their  food.  "  Lime-clriiik  "  is 
a  cooling  and  healthful  beverage  for  foreigners. 
There  are  various  kinds  of  plums,  sweet  and 
sour,  but  they  are  not  generally  palatable.  A 
kind  of  wild  fig  is  also  found  upon  large  trees. 
Several  varieties  of  cherries  are  gathered  in  the 
forests,  but  they  are  almost  wholly  unlike  the 
cherries  of  America. 

The  bread-fruit  grows  luxuriantly  in  this 
country,  though  it  is  not  found  in  a  wild  state. 
The  tree  is  graceful  and  beautiful,  and  the  fruit 
when  cooked  quite  palatable,  but  it  bears  but 
little  resemblance  to  bread.  The  bread-nut 
exactly  resembles  the  bread-fruit  outwardly, 
but  the  rind  contains  several  small  nuts,  which, 
when  roasted,  are  eaten. 

The  mango  is  another  delicious  fruit.  The 
trees  are  beautifully  shaped,  and  covered  with 
the  densest  foliage,  affording  a  cool  shade.  The 
fruit  grows  in  large  clusters,  and  slightly  re- 
sembles the  peach.  The  gxiava  is  also  much 
valued.  It  is  of  the  size  of  a  small  apple,  and 
excellent  for  eating  or  for  jelly.  The  paw-paw 
is  a  singular  fruit  somewhat  resembling  a  musk- 


-rr.onucTioNs,  TitAVELmG. 


37 


niulon.  The  tree  is  small,  with  a  tuft  of  loaves 
at  the  top  and  no  branches,  and  the  fr;ut  grows 
in  clusters  on  the  trunk.  The  sour  and  sweet 
sop  are  indescribable  fruits,  much  liked  by  some, 
but  seldom  by  the  new-comer.  The  cashew  is 
another  suigular  production,  —  half  mit  and 
half  fruit.  The  pulpy  portion  is  eaten,  and  the 
nut  at  the  end  forms  the  seed. 

The  pine-apple  grows  everywhere,  and  is 
large  and  delicious ;  the  plants  are  sometimes 
two  feet  or  more  in  hight.  The  plantain  and 
banana  are  found  near  almost  every  village, 
and  the  site  of  an  old  town  can  often  bo  known 
by  the  little  orchard  of  bananas  remaining. 
The  plants  look  very  beautiful  when  growing 
in  large  numbers,  with  their  immense  leaves 
glistening  in  the  simlight,  and  their  large  clus- 
ters of  fruit.  The  tamarind  grows  in  a  vfild 
state,  and  is  also  cultivated.  The  cocoa-nut  is 
plentiful,  and  the  trees  at  a  distance  can  scarcely 
be  distinguished  from  the  palm.  They  are 
sometimes  found  in  largo  groves,  and  are  a 
beautiful  feature  in  the  landscape.  There  are 
many  varieties  of  iiuts;-— among  those  most 


33 


GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AEHICA. 


prized  by  tlio  natives  are  tlio  kolers.  These 
possess  a  stimulating  property,  and  are  chewed 
by  boatmen  to  keep  tliemselves  awake  during 
t'nc  night  hours.  They  are  often  used  as  gifts 
by  the  people,  the  present  of  a  kolcr  being  con- 
sidered a  pledge  of  friendship. 

Among  the  trees  of  Africa,  the  palm  stands 
first.  It  gives  a  pleasing,  oriental  aspect  to  the 
fchore,  wlien  seen  from  the  sea ;  and  in  jour- 
neying up  the  rivers,  a  palm-grove,  standing 
against  a  sunlit,  tropical  sky,  forms  a  picture  of 
exquisite  beauty.  The  trees  sometimes  rise  to 
the  hight  of  sixty  or  seventy  feet.  The  leaves 
make  an  excellent  thatch  for  buildings,  and  the 
fiber  is  used  for  lines  and  fish-nets.  The  nuts 
yield  two  kinds  of  oil,  which  form  an  important 
part  of  the  exports  of  the  country.  Cargo  after 
cargo  is  shipped  every  year  by  the  traders,  who 
have  established  factories  along  the  coast.  The 
natives  have  devised  a  singular  way  of  climbing 
the  palm-tree  to  obtain  the  nuts.  They  fasten 
a  hoop  around  the  tree  and  themselves,  against 
which  they  loan  ;  then  give  a  spring  upwards, 
then  another,  and  when  they  arrive  at  the  top 


mODUCTlOXS,  TUA  VELIN^O. 


39 


they  cut  tlic  buuch  of  nuts  from  the  trunk,  and 
let  it  fall  to  the  ground.  Palm  wine  is  obtained 
by  tapping  the  tree  near  the  top.  It  is  much 
prized  by  the  people.  A  sort  of  cabbage  grows 
from  the  trunk  at  the  point  where  the  leaves 
sprout  out.  When  boiled  it  affords  excellent 
food. 

The  bamboo  can  hardly  be  called  a  tree,  yet 
it  is  a  very  important  plant.  Its  leaves  closely 
resemble  the  palm,  and  form  the  chief  roofing 
of  houses  in  West  Africa.  Tlic  camwood  is 
found  along  the  coast  in  considerable  quantities. 
There  arc  also  many  varieties  of  forest  trees, 
affording  excellent  timber. 

The  descriptions  of  farming  at  the  beginning 
of  this  chapter  relate,  of  course,  to  the  native 
modes.  On  many  parts  of  the  coast,  where 
civilization  has  obtained  a  footing,  farms  are 
cultivated  in  a  far  better  manner.  But  the 
work  of  introducing  improvements  goes  forward 
slowly,  and  agriculture  is,  in  general,  in  a  very 
backward  state. 

Of  the  animals  of  West  Africa,  tlie  leopard  is 
one  of  tlie  jnost  troublesome.   It  roams  through 


40 


GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFIllCA. 


tlie  bush  everywhere,  and  at  night  prowls 
about  towns  and  viHages.  Children  are  fre- 
quently killed  by  it,  and  grown  people  some- 
times attacked.  In  the  interior,  the  sheep  and 
goats  belonging  to  a  town  are  herded  within 
the  walls  at  night  to  protect  them  from  the 
leopards.  The  skins  of  this  animal  are  used  for 
hangings  on  the  walls  of  kings'  houses,  and  to 
cover  native  stools. 

The  elephant  is  found  in  many  parts  of  the 
hill-country,  and  is  eagerly  hunted  by  the  na- 
tives for  its  ivory.  These  hunts  are  intensely 
exciting,  and  dangerous.  It  would  be  almoiit 
impossible  for  a  white  man  to  participate  in 
them,  so  dense  is  the  jungle  through  wliich  the 
huge  beast  plunges.  Tigers  are  said  to  abound 
in  some  parts,  and  lions  were  formerly  found  in 
the  mountains  of  Sierra  Leone,  Porciipines 
are  numerous,  and  often  do  miich  daiiiage  in 
the  farms  and  among  the  fowls. 

Monkeys  are  common  all  along  the  coast ; 
and  the  traveler,  passing  up  and  down  the  riv- 
ers, hears  them  chattering  in  the  forests,  and 
sees  them  leap  from  branch  to  branch.  They 


rnODUCTIONS,  travetang. 


41 


ai'o  often  caught,  tamed,  and  carried  to  foreign 
countries.  The  chimpanzee,  which  strongly  re- 
sembles a  human  being,  is  also  found  in  the 
forests ;  and  the  ourang-outang  is  sometimes 
seen. 

There  arc  but  few  cattle  on  the  immediate 
coast,  but  they  abound  towards  the  interior. 
Sheep  and  goats  are  very  numerous,  also  fowls. 
The  African  sheep  closely  resembles  the  Ameri- 
can, except  that  it  has  no  wool,  and  is  covered 
with  fine,  smooth  hair.  Several  kinds  of  deer, 
and  many  other  animals,  larger  and  smaller, 
are  found  on  the  coast. 

The  birds  of  West  Africa  have  often  a  most 
gorgeous  plumage,  but  their  songs  are  not  so 
sweet  as  those  of  more  temperate  regions. 
Among  them  are  the  rice-bird,  crane,  pelican, 
crow,  hawk,  vulture,  eagle,  and  pigeon.  Many 
varieties  of  fish  are  found  in  the  waters.  Sharks 
are  so  numerous  that  bathing  and  swimming 
are  dangerous,  and  not  unfrequently  the  na- 
tives are  killed  by  them.  Alligators  are  often 
seen  gliding  along  near  the  surface  of  the  water, 
or  sunning  themselves  on  the  banks.  Tlio 


42 


GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 


hippopotamus,  or  rivor-ccw,  is  a  native  of  tlio 
coxiutiy ;  and  its  hoarse  bellowings  are  heard 
during  the  night  hours  by  the  traveler  as  he 
lies  in  his  little  boat. 

The  insects  and  reptiles  of  West  Africa  are  a 
terror  to  many  foreigners.  They  are  very  nu- 
merous, often  troublesome,  and  sometimes  dan- 
gerous. Africa  may  well  be  called  the  land  of 
ants.  These  little  insects  are  of  all  shapes 
and  colors.  They  go  everywhere.  They  enter 
our  houses,  and  glide  over  the  table-cloth  as  we 
sit  at  dinner.  They  pass  up  and  down  the 
walls,  cross  the  mat-covered  floors  in  continual 
processions  day  and  night,  and  crawl  over  our 
portfolios  as  we  write.  Our  paths  are  lined  with 
them,  whenever  we  walk  out  of  doors  ;  and  the 
rock  or  log  on  which  we  seat  ourselves  to  rest 
is  sure  to  have  an  abundant  supply. 

The  drivers  are  a  curious  species  of  African 
ants.  They  are  medium  sized,  but  very  fero- 
cious. They  travel  in  a  long,  close  line,  about 
half  an  inch  wide.  These  processions  often 
cross  and  re-cross  a  path  many  times,  and  as 
they  move  swiftly  forward  over  the  same  spot 


pnonccTioxs,  rnAVF.LiXG. 


43 


lioiu*  after  liour,  their  numbers  must  bo  im- 
mense. If  anything  disturbs  their  line  of  march, 
they  rush  out  in  every  direction  witli  amazing 
swiftness  to  attack  the  intruder.  V»liatever 
comes  in  their  way  is  eagerly  devoured.  Bugs, 
worms,  serpents,  and  even  goats  and  sheep  if 
taken  in  an  unsuspecting  moment,  arc  instant- 
ly covered  with  myriad  swarms,  and  struggle 
in  vain  to  escape.  Even  the  huge  elephant  and 
boa-constrictor  arc  said  to  have  sometimes  fal- 
len a  prey  to  the  innumerable  legions  of  thes3 
tiny  animals.  An  experienced  eye  is  almost 
certain  to  detect  the  long  black  line  of  drivers 
Avinding  across  the  path ;  but  if  in  a  thoiight- 
Icss  moment  the  traveler's  foot  is  placod  iipon 
it,  a  scene  at  once  painful  and  ludicrous  fol- 
lows. In  an  instant  his  body  is  covered  from 
head  to  foot,  and  a  hundred  sharp  fangs  pierce 
his  flesh,  causing  involuntary  screams,  jumps, 
and  most  undignified  antics,  that  draw  roars  of 
laughter  from  the  most  sympathizing  looker-on. 
But  all  is  in  vain.  Xo  relief  can  be  found  by 
the  victim,  whose  excited  imagination  fancies  a 
Imndred  bites  for  one,  till  he  retires  by  himself, 


44 


GLIMPSES  OF  WnST  AFUICA. 


and  jjicks  off  the  clinging  drivers  one  by  one. 
Sometimes  tlicy  enter  houses,  and  effect  a  good 
purpose  by  clearing  them  of  roaches,  hugs,  and 
smaller  ants. 

The  bug-a-bug  is  another  -wonderful  and 
troublesome  ant  found  in  West  Africa.  It  does 
much  damage  to  the  wood-work  of  houses,  not 
unfrequently  destroying  it  altogether.  The  nar 
tive  houses  last  but  a  few  years  on  account  of 
the  depredations  of  these  ants,  and  great  care 
lias  to  be  exercised  in  the  mission-houses  to  keep 
them  out.  They  form  a  little  arch  of  mud  along 
the  walls  and  floors,  underneath  which  they 
come  and  go,  preying  upon  the  wood.  Some- 
times they  enter  a  post  from  the  earth,  and  de- 
vour all  the  inner  portion,  while  the  outside 
seems  as  solid  as  ever,  till  suddenly  it  falls. 
Like  the  drivers,  they  are  small,  but  their  name 
is  legion. 

The  bug-a-bugs  show  a  wonderful  industry  in 
building  their  houses,  which  are  called  "  bug-a- 
bug  hills."  These  hills  are  numerous  almost 
everywl>cro ;  sometimes  an  acre  of  land  will 
contain  a  score  of  them.    They  vary  much  in 


rnoDUcTioss,  traveling. 


45 


size  and  shape.  Some  are  fourteen  feet  high, 
twenty  or  thirty  in  circumference  at  the  base, 
and  have  many  little  spires  and  pinnacles. 
They  are  built  of  a  brown  clay,  quite  hard,  and 
often  present  a  really  beautiful  appearance. 
The  building  of  these  solid  hills  by  such  tiny 
insects  is  a  wonder  next  to  the  formation  of 
coral  islands.  Each  hill  has  its  "  queen,"  — a 
bug-like  animal,  two  or  three  inches  in  length. 
At  certain  seasons  of  the  year  winged  bug-a- 
bugs  issue  in  immense  numbers  from  small 
holes  in  the  ground,  but  after  a  few  hours'  ex- 
posure to  the  air  the  wings  fall  off.  At  this 
time  they  are  gathered  by  the  natives  in  large 
quantities,  parched,  and  eaten  as  food.  They 
are  regarded  as  very  delicious. 

The  serpents  of  this  country  are  of  all  sizes, 
from  the  minutest  to  the  huge  boa-constrictor. 
Some  are  harmless,  and  the  bite  of  others  is 
deadly.  They  abound  in  all  the  fields  and  for- 
ests, yet  very  seldom  is  any  one  injured  by 
them.  The  natives  go  everywhere  barefooted, 
but  are  rarely  bitten,  and  I  never  heard  of  a 
case  that  resulted  fatally.    Scorpions  are  ofteu 


4G 


GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 


found  in  houses,  and  among  books  and  cloth- 
ing ;  centipedes  arc  also  numerous.  But  these 
poisonous  creatures  give  the  foreign  resident 
far  less  trouble  than  the  swarms  of  mosquitoes 
which  gather  round  at  nightfall.  Along  the 
rivers  and  lowlands  they  are  sometimes  almost 
unendurable,  and  all  efforts  to  exclude  them 
prove  fruitless.  There  are  many  other  insects 
and  reptiles,  large  and  small,  which  would  afford 
the  student  of  nature  a  wide  field  of  explora- 
tion. 

The  modes  of  traveling  la  this  country  are 
few  and  simple.  They  may  almost  be  reduced 
to  two,  boating  and  walking,  though  palanquins, 
sedan-chairs  and  hammocks  are  used  in  many 
places  by  foreigners,  and  in  three  or  four  of  the 
most  civilized  towns  there  arc  a  few  liorsos. 
The  swinging  palanquin,  borne  by  two  carriers, 
is  an  easy  mode  of  journeying  in  the  mountain 
districts ;  but  it  is  not  usually  available.  A 
sort  of  hammock,  suspended  from  two  poles, 
which  are  borne  on  the  shoulders  of  four  na- 
tives, is  often  used ;  but  there  are  many  p-aths 


rnoDucTioNs,  traveling. 


47 


so  narrow  and  ovcrlmng  with  buslics  that  walk- 
ing is  the  only  method  of  passing  over  them. 

The  term  road  in  Africa  moans  simply  a  foot- 
path ;  there  is  nothing  in  this  country  similar 
to  the  wide  cari'iage-roads  of  America  and  Eng- 
land. Even  in  the  partly  civilized  towns,  the 
streets  consist  of  a  wide  walk  in  the  center, 
somewhat  resembling  an  American  sidewalk 
except  that  it  is  unpavcd,  and  on  either  hand  is 
a  grass-covered  space.  The  native  roads,  which 
lead  from  town  to  town,  are  the  narrowest  and 
most  crooked  of  foot-paths.  They  arc  often 
completely  overhung  and  crowded  with  bushes, 
which  sweep  the  traveler  on  either  side  as  ho 
passes.  They  wind  round  and  round,  making 
the  sharpest  of  angles,  and  as  new  paths  occa- 
sionally branch  out  just  when  one  has  lost  all 
idea  of  the  points  of  compass,  a  guide  is  abso- 
lutely necessary. 

The  missionary  sometimes  journeys  over  these 
paths,  in  order  to  visit  towns  which  are  not  ac- 
cessible by  boats.  Such  trips  are  weaiying, 
but  at  first  full  of  interest  and  novelty.  Havijig 
made  your  baggage  as  light  as  possible,  remem- 


48 


GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFIUCA. 


beriiig  to  supply  yourself  with  a  little  food,  you 
secure  six  or  eight  men  and  set  forward.  The 
guide  leads  the  way,  and  the  rest  follow  in  sin- 
gle file.  One  man  carries  a  small  basket,  or 
"  bly,"  as  the  African  calls  it,  containing  your 
provisions,  on  his  head  ;  another  balances  your 
valise  in  the  same  manner ;  another  carries 
your  shawl  and  pillow ;  a  fourth  has  a  glass 
lantern  in  his  hand ;  and  the  others  are  laden 
with  various  small  articles.  You  spread  your 
umbrella  to  keep  off  the  fierce  rays  of  a  torrid 
sun,  but  soon  you  enter  the  "  bush,"  and  find- 
ing it  a  burden,  you  close  and  hand  it  to  one  of 
the  men.  You  feel  in  fme  spirits,  and  pi-ess 
forward  rapidly.  The  forest  is  very  dense,  and 
the  air  seems  refreshing.  Now  and  then  you 
catch  sight  of  your  shawl  and  pillow  disappear- 
ing round  some  sharp  angle,  or  hear  the  shrill 
cry  of  the  guide  in  advance,  and  the  answering 
echo  from  the  rear.  Sometimes  you  walk  along 
a  soft  leaf-covered  path,  and  anon  stumble  over 
tangled  roots  and  loose  stones.  One  moment 
you  almost  lose  trace  of  the  path,  and  are  com- 
pelled to  force  your  way  through  what  seems 


ritODUCTIONS,  TRAVELING.  49 

ail  impenetrable  jungle ;  the  next  you  clanibor 
up  the  branches  of  a  huge  tree  which  has  fallen 
across  the  way,  and  walk  along  the  trunk  for 
thirty  or  forty  feet.  Shady  as  is  the  road,  the 
perspiration  rolls  down  your  face ;  and  when 
you  reach  a  mountain  stream,  rippling  over  its 
rocky  bed,  you  are  glad  to  stop  and  drink  fi'om 
the  tin  cup  that  you  did  not  forget  to  put  in 
the  "  bly."  Presently  you  cross  a  deep  gorge 
on  a  log,  and  climb  a  steep,  rocky  hill.  By 
and  by  you  come  to  a  swamp,  where  the  path 
is  wet  and  miry.  One  of  your  sturdiest  men 
comes  to  the  rescue,  takes  you  on  his  back, 
and  trotting  slowly  through  the  mud,  deposits 
you  dry-shod  on  the  opposite  shore.  Thus  yoii 
journey  hour  after  hour,  sometimes  passing 
through  an  open  field  where  the  sun's  rays  are 
intensely  hot.  At  length  you  approach  rice 
and  cassada  patches,  and  meet  natives  more 
freqiiently,  —  sure  signs  that  a  town  is  near. 
You  send  a  small  present  to  the  king,  and  he 
provides  a  house  for  you  to  rest  in,  after  which, 
perhaps,  you  preach  to  the  people,  who  gather 
to  heni\  of  Christ  and  him  crucified. 
4 


50 


GLlMJ':ii:S  OF  WEST  AFItlCA. 


A  white  man,  in  these  trips,  is  an  ohject  of 
the  greatest  curiosity  to  the  people.  The  few 
natives  whom  lie  meets  by  the  way  stare  eagerly, 
and  sometimes  at  first  sight  spring  back  in  ter- 
ror. Crowds  gather  round  him  as  he  enters  a 
town,  and  frequently  almost  the  entire  popula- 
tion follows  him  as  he  leaves.  These  escorts 
are  often  attended  with  the  most  extravagant 
noises  and  shouts,  running  and  jumping.  I 
hardly  ever  walked  in  an  interior  town  without 
a  curious  group  following  my  steps,  and  watch- 
ing every  motion.  If  I  seated  myself  for  a  mo- 
ment in  a  "  barre,"  they  would  pause,  chatter 
away  in  their  native  tongue,  and  laugh,  doubt- 
less busy  with  their  comments  on  the  queer 
dress  and  manners  of  the  white  man.  The 
children,  especially,  are  terrified  at  a  white  face. 
They  will  gather  in  groups  at  a  safe  distance, 
and  peer  round  some  corner  with  gaping  mouths 
and  wide-open  eyes ;  but  the  slightest  demon- 
stration of  approach,  or  even  a  stcad}^  gs^ze,  is 
enough  to  send  them  away  screaming  with 
fright.  I  have  often  been  amused,  while  rest- 
ing in  these  towns,  to  see  the  parents  bring 


rnoDUCTioxs,  travulixg. 


51 


their  "  piccaninnies"  towards  mc  ;  tlic  moment 
they  canght  my  eye  the  invariable  scream  burirt 
forth,  which  was  the  signal  for  a  general  shout 
of  laughter  from  the  gathered  crowd. 

The  natives  travel  with  great  ease  over  these 
rough  paths,  often  walking  twenty-five  miles  a 
day  for  many  days  in  succession.  Tliough  al- 
ways barefooted,  their  feet  seldom  become  trav- 
el-worn. They  do  not  usually  carry  heavy  bur- 
dens, but  if  necessary  they  show  a  surprising 
power  of  endurance.  I  once  had  a  sheep  pre- 
sented mo  by  the  kmg  of  a  large  walled  town 
in  the  interior,  and,  as  it  could  not  be  made  to 
walk,  the  king's  son  carried  it  on  his  back  a 
distance  of  thirty  miles  over  a  rough  path  in  a 
single  day !  The  kings,  like  their  subjects, 
must  walk,  for  the  natives  have  no  mode  of 
riding  except  in  canoes. 

The  most  common  way  of  traveling  near  the 
coast  is  in  boats  and  canoes.  In  many  places, 
one  can  hardly  visit  the  neai'est  villages  without 
a  short  trip  on  the  water.  The  numerous  riv- 
ers and  winding  creeks  greatly  facilitate  this 
mode  of  journeying.    The  missionary  often  goes 


52 


GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 


liuiidreds  of  miles  in  his  open  boat,  protected 
from  sun  and  storm  only  by  an  awning.  Some- 
times the  boat  is  his  home  for  many  days  to- 
getlicr,  and  he  must  learn  to  make  himself  com- 
fortable in  a  small  space.  Boat  traveling  has 
its  jileasurcs,  and,  particularly  in  the  rainy  sea- 
son, its  manifold  discomforts.  Tlic  experienced 
resident  on  the  coast  becomes  so  accustomed  to 
cramped  quarters,  occasional  drenchings,  and 
eating  and  sleeping  under  difficulties,  that  he 
scarcely  minds  them ;  but  the  new-comer  finds 
that  the  reality  of  the  thing  rather  outbalances 
the  romance. 

You  arrive  on  the  coast,  perhaps,  at  the  hight 
of  "  the  rains,"  and  find  a  journey  of  one  or  two 
hundred  miles  before  you  in  an  open  boat.  The 
romance  of  adventure  is  not  yet  dissipated,  and 
you  are  rather  pleased  with  the  prospect.  You 
find  yourself  in  a  small  cabin,  some  six  feet  by 
four,  formed  by  an  awning,  with  side  and  end 
curtains.  Several  mattresses,  blankets,  and  pil- 
lows, somewhat  the  worse  for  dampness  and  mil- 
dew, are  placed  on  the  seats ;  and  the  spaco 
which  you  -lo  not  occupy  is  piled  with  trunks, 


rnoDucTioNS,  traveling. 


53 


valises,  boxes,  and  baskets.  Soon  it  begins  to 
rain  ;  and  tlie  awning,  that  was  supposed  to  bo 
water-proof,  is  found  sadly  wanting  in  that  re- 
spect. You  move  this  way  and  that,  and  draw 
yourself  into  the  smallest  possible  dimensions  ; 
but  the  little  streams  come  thicker  and  faster, 
until  yourself  and  baggage  are  thoroughly  dam|> 
ened,  not  to  say  wet.  The  ocean  grows  rough, 
and  the  boat  begins  to  toss  about  like  a  leaf. 
The  waves  break  over  the  bow,  and  you  hear 
them  roar  on  the  rocky  beach.  Your  baggaga 
tumbles  about,  and  the  basket  containing  the 
crockery  and  provisions  comes  down  with  a 
crash.  Meantime,  the  rain  continues  to  fall  in 
torrents ;  and,  half  sea-sick,  and  more  than  half 
wet,  you  feel  decidedly  uncomfortable,  and  think 
that  it  is  pleasanter  to  read  about  such  things 
than  to  pass  through  them. 

By  and  by  it  becomes  smoother,  and  you  pre 
pare  for  dinner.  Your  boatmen  cook  some  rico 
and  meat,  and  you  draw  forth  a  little  bread, 
butter,  and  jelly  from  the  canteen ;  and,  with- 
out a  table,  the  boat  rocking,  and  the  rain  still 
falling,  you  eat  as  best  you  may.    Night  conies, 


54 


GLIMPSES  OP  WEST  AFRICA. 


dark  and  wet,  and,  wrapping  yourself  in  a  sliawl, 
you  lie  down  to  sleep.  Thus  you  journey,  per- 
haps,  for  several  days,  with  occasional  cessation 
of-  rain,  and  bursts  of  sunshine. 

During  the  dry  season,  these  boat-trips  are 
far  pleasanter.  You  sit  hour  after  hour  on  the 
cushioned  seat,  gazing  on  the  soft,  hazy  shore, 
with  its  palm-groves  and  queer-looking  towns  ; 
or  you  lie  at  full  length,  in  a  dreamy  half-sleep, 
listening  to  the  dip  of  the  oars  and  the  chants 
of  the  men.  If  you  have  not  forgotten  a  book 
or  pamphlet,  you  may  spend  many  a  delightful 
hour  in  reading.  At  night,  when  the  stars  come 
out,  and  the  tropical  moon  floods  sea  and  shore 
with  its  full,  soft  light,  you  enjoy  such  a  scene 
of  magic  beauty  as  could  be  found  nowhere  else. 

The  preparations  for  a  long  journey  in  a  boat 
require  much  care,  and  some  experience.  Ev- 
erything must  be  seen  to  by  your  own  cyo,  or 
the  men  Avill  be  almost  certain  to  neglect  it. 
You  have  oven  to  watch  the  boatmen,  or  tliey 
will  contrive  to  be  absent  at  the  precise  moment 
you  wish  to  start.  Then  you  must  see  that  they 
are  supplied  with  rice,  water,  and  sait,  and  that 


rnoDUCTfoxs,  tua  velixg. 


tlic  boat  is  proporly  rigged.  Next,  you  an-ay 
yourself  in  your  oldest  clothes  ;  and,  having 
talceu  a  goodly  supply  of  blankets,  pillows,  and 
shawls,  not  forgetting  the  canteen  of  provisions 
and  tlic  water-jugs,  you  arc  ready  to  start,  which 
you  do  after  several  "  palavers  "  and  unneccs- 
saiy  delays  among  the  men.  If  your  course  is 
up  some  river,  perhaps  you  stop  at  a  native  tov/n 
to  spend  the  night.  Tlic  king  provides  you  a 
house  ;  and,  spreading  your  shawl  on  a  mat  on 
the  mud  floor,  you  sleep  very  comfortably,  con- 
sidering the  heathen  songs  and  shouts,  that 
continue  till  a  late  hour.  In  the  morning,  whesi 
you  wake,  you  find  the  glassless  window  crowded 
with  black  faces,  all  eager  to  see  the  white  man 
or  woman.  You  arc  anxious  to  start  forward 
early,  but  your  boatmen  have  all  mysteriously 
disappeared.  You  feel  a  little  like  scolding, 
but  conclude  to  make  the  best  of  it.  After  a 
delay  of  an  hour  or  two,  and  simdry  tiresome 
walks,  you  succeed  in  getting  3-our  men  together, 
and  proceed  on  the  journey. 

Canoes  arc  universally  used  by  the  natives  for 
journeying  by  water,  and  are  often  employed 


56 


GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 


for  carrying  produce.  Some  of  them  arc  very 
large,  and,  with  an  awning  at  the  stern,  afford 
comfortable  quarters  for  any  one.  Most  of  the 
native  canoes  are  lioUowed  out  of  a  single  log, 
and  vary  in  size  according  to  the  tree  from  which 
tliey  are  cut.  Some  are  only  ten  feet  in  length, 
by  one  \\\  width,  and  others  are  thirty  or  forty 
feet  long,  and  tliree  or  four  wide.  The  natives, 
especially  a  tribe  called  Kroomen,  manage  these 
frail  ca:noes  with  great  skill.  They  ventiire  far 
out  at  sea,  even  when  the  water  is  rough.  Al- 
most the  first  sight  that  greets  the  passenger  on 
an  inward-bound  vessel  is  a  fleet  of  these  trough 
like  conveyances  putting  off  from  the  shore. 
At  first  they  seem  mere  specks,  rising  on  the 
crest  of  a  wave,  and  sinking  from  sight  behind 
the  next.  As  they  approach,  the  half-naked 
occupants  strain  every  nerve  at  tlic  paddles,  in 
an  effort  to  outstrip  their  nciglibors ;  and  tlie 
race  often  becomes  exciting.  If  an  overturn 
happens  it  matters  little,  for  the  Kroomen  are 
as  much  at  home  in  tlie  water  as  on  land,  and 
will  swim  about,  and  right  their  canoes  with 
ease. 


rnoDUCTiOKs,  traveli^'g. 


57 


111  traveling  up  the  rivers,  log  caiioos  are  seeu 
loaded  with  produce  and  passengers ;  but  acci- 
dents rarely  happen.  By  night,  a  "  tom-tom," 
a  sort  of  drum,  is  generally  beaten,  which,  blend- 
ing with  the  chant  of  the  men,  makes  a  mourn- 
ful music,  as  it  sounds  out  on  the  night  air. 
These  canoes  present  a  pretty  appearance  as 
they  glide  swiftly  to  and  fro  over  the  waters. 


CHAPTER  IV. 


TOWNS  —  HOUSES  —  MANUFACTURES. 

"WELL  remember  how  cviriously  I  gazed 


first  saw  tliem  from  the  deck  of  an  Eng- 
^  Hsh  steamer.  They  are  in  perfect  con- 
trast to  the  neat,  white  A'illages  of  America,  yet 
they  arc  not  altogether  destitute  of  a  sort  of 
beauty  of  their  own.  Seen  from  the  sea,  they 
harmonize  well  Avith  the  tropical  landscape. 
The  small,  round  housed,  with  their  roofs  of 
thatch,  clustered  amid  groves  of  orange  or 
palm,  and  surrounded  widi  a  Avcalth  of  foliage, 
charm  the  eye  of  the  ocean-tossed  wanderer  as 
he  approaches  the  green  shores.  Sometimes 
the  houses  are  scattered  along  a  liill-sidc,  half 
vailed  with  a  soft  haze ;  and  again  they  are 
crowded  together  in  some  small  opening  in  I  ho 
bush. 


towns  of  the  African  coast,  when  I 


58 


7'Oir-V/?,  HOUSES,  MAXUFACrUItES. 


A  nearer  view  detracts  somewhat  from  the 
picturesque  aspect  of  these  towns ;  yet  even 
tlien  the  smooth,  mud  walls,  and  neat  pointed 
roofs,  look  really  pretty.  Many  of  them  on  the 
immediate  coast,  especially  i:i  the  vicinity  of 
mission  stations,  show  some  marks  of  civiliza- 
tion. The  houses  are  not  crowded  so  close  to 
each  other,  and  often  there  is  space  for  a  little 
garden-patch,  and  a  cluster  of  bananas  and  fruit 
trees.  Sometimes  there  is  a  faint  attempt  at 
regularity  in  the  streets ;  but  more  commonly 
the  houses  are  scattered  about  promiscuously, 
while  narrow  foot-paths  wind  among  them. 

Many  of  the  native  towns  are  walled,  or  bar- 
ricaded, to  protect  them  from  the  attacks  of 
neighboring  tribes.  Some  of  these  defenses 
are  quite  ingeniously  constructed,  and,  though 
they  would  offer  but  little  resista'aco  to  Ameri- 
can weapons  of  war,  they  prove  formidable  here. 
In  some  cases,  the  outer  barricade  consists  sim- 
ply of  largo  round  sticks,  ten  or  twelve  feet 
long,  set  in  the  earth  close  to  each  other,  and 
firmly  bound  together.  Inside  of  this  is  a  space 
some  five  feet  wide,  which  in  case  of  an  attack 


60 


GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 


is  occupied  by  tlio  soldiers,  who  thrust  their 
muskets  between  the  sticks  and  fire  upon  tlio 
enemy.  The  inner  wall  is  solid,  being  thickly 
coated  with  mud  on  either  side.  The  infirm 
and  the  children  take  refuge  within,  where,  un- 
less the  place  is  captured,  they  are  safe.  Other 
towns  have  externally  a  solid  wall,  inside  of 
which  is  a  space  of  perhaps  fifteen  feet,  filled 
with  sharp  sticks  pointing  in  every  direction,  so 
that  if  an  enemy  scales  the  wall  and  falls,  he 
will  be  impaled  and  killed.  Still  further  in  is 
a  second  barricade  of  sticks.  Not  unfreq\iently 
a  deep  ditch  surrounds  the  outer  wall.  There 
arc  usually  several  watch-towers,  rising  above 
the  highest  barricade,  in  which  sentinels  are 
stationed  with  muskets  to  look  out  for  an  ap- 
proaching foe,  and  alarm  the  people  in  case  of 
danger.  The  entrances  to  the  town  are  closed 
by  solid  double  doors  of  wood,  which  at  niglit 
arc  securely  barred.  The  stranger  in  eiitcring 
must  pass  through  the  outer  gateway,  then 
along  a  narrow  passage,  often  so  low  that  he  is 
obliged  to  stoop,  and  finally  through  a  second 
gateway.  Several  "  war-men,"  armed  with  cub- 


TOWNS,  HOUSES,  MANUFACTUIiES.  61 

lasses  and  guns,  arc  generally  seen  about  the 
gates,  even  during  the  day. 

The  interior  of  a  walled  town  is  a  novel  sight. 
There  is  no  sign  of  streets,  but  the  houses  are 
huddled  so  close  together  that  their  thatched 
roofs  often  touch  each  other.  Tlie  ground  not 
occupied  by  buildings  is  smooth  and  hard,  and 
scarcely  a  spire  of  grass  or  a  weed  can  be  seen. 
It  is  swept  each  morning  by  the  people,  and  the 
litter  of  the  previous  day  removed,  so  that  a 
neat  appearance  is  presented.  A  stranger  will 
be  very  likely  to  lose  his  way  as  he  wanders 
among  the  houses,  coming  now  into  a  small, 
open  court,  then  winding  through  narrow  pas- 
sages between  two  mud  walls.  Here  he  sees  a 
kitchen,  in  which  the  women  are  cooking  rice 
and  fish,  or  tending  their  naked  "  piccanin- 
nies," and  there  another,  its  exact  counterpart. 
Women  arc  coming  and  going,  bearing  on  their 
heads  bmidles  of  sticks  and  blies  of  fruit.  Men 
are  lounging  about  in  the  sun,  or  lying  in  their 
swinging  hammocks.  Some  of  the  people  are 
weaving  mats  and  baskets  ;  others  are  spinnhig 
yarn  from  the  native  cotton. 


I 


62  GLIMrSES  OF  WEST  AFIilCA. 

A  large  town  lias  usually  several  unwalled 
villages  under  its  protection,  whose  inhabitants, 
if  war  comes,  flee  to  it  for  safety.  The  size  of 
towns,  of  course,  varies  widely.  Very  few  have 
more  than  fifteen  hundred  or  two  thousand 
people,  and  many  do  not  approach  these  num- 
bers. Villages  are  often  found  with  only  half 
a  dozen  houses.  Their  site  is  commonly  marked 
by  one  or  two  giant  cotton-trees,  which  affoixl 
a  cooling  shade. 

The  majority  of  African  houses  are  built  in  a 
circular  form,  and  are  very  small, — only  twelve 
or  fifteen  feet  in  diameter.  The  dwellings  of 
the  chiefs,  however,  and  of  some  of  the  leading 
men,  are  oblong,  and  much  larger.  They  have 
a  sort  of  mud-plastered  piazza  on  one  side, 
where  visitors  are  invited  to  sit,  and  where  the 
chief  spends  much  of  his  time,  stretched  at  full 
length  in  a  ham-mock.  The  construction  is 
very  simple.  A  spot  is  first  selected,  and  cleared 
of  imderbrush.  A  light  frame  is  then  put  up, 
consisting  of  sticks  set  in  the  ground  close  to 
each  other,  with  slender  poles  for  rafters. 
The  sticks  are  fastened  together  by  tying  them 


TOWNS,  HOUSES,  MANUFACTUliES.  G3 

with  a  kind  of  vine  wliicli  is  tiscd  for  roi)C. 
The  walls  arc  next  inwoven  with  small  sticks, 
and  afterwards  thickly  coated  on  both  sides  with 
mud.  Tliis  soon  hardens,  and  forms  a  smooth 
fairfacc,  sometimes  brown,  and  sometimes  tinted 
v.'ith  yellow.  The  pointed  roof  is  neatly  cov- 
ered with  palm  or  bamboo  thatch,  and  the  floor 
made  of  a  kind  of  mud  which  soon  becomes 
smooth  and  solid.  A  rude  partition  generally 
divides  the  house  into  two  rooms.  A  low  aper- 
ture is  left  for  the  doorway,  and  perhaps  there 
is  one  small  opening  to  admit  the  light.  The 
interior  is  quite  dark,  and  the  people  spend 
most  of  their  time  in  the  open  air.  Fires,  if 
required,  are  built  in  the  center  of  the  room, 
the  smoke  being  left  to  find  its  way  out  as  it 
can.  The  ends  of  several  long  sticks  are  placed 
together,  and  as  they  burn  off,  the  brands  are 
pushed  up,  and  the  fire  thus  kept  burning 
through  the  whole  night.  The  smoke  is  trying 
to  the  eyes  of  a  traveler,  but  it  serves  to  keep 
off  the  swarms  of  mosquitoes. 

In  the  better  class  of  houses,  the  window  ap- 
ertures are  closed  at  night  by  wooden  shutters, 


64 


GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 


and  a  frame-work  covered  with  matting  placed 
at  the  doorway.  The  walls  are  Imng  with  pret- 
tily figured  mats  and  leopard  skins.  Some- 
times the  outside  of  the  house  is  adorned  with 
a  few  rude  pictures  in  red  and  black,  and  a  lit- 
tle attempt  at  embossing  in  the  mud-work. 

Nearly  every  town  has  its  "  kitchens,"  which 
arc  built  much  like  the  houses,  except  that 
they  are  open  on  one  or  two  sides.  Here  the 
women  do  much  of  their  cooking,  and  a  group 
of  idlers  lounge  about,  chatting  or  sleeping.  A 
tub  or  large  bowl  of  water  stands  in  one  part 
of  the  kitchen,  with  a  gourd-shell  "calabash" 
for  a  drinking-vessel ;  and  a  pot  of  rice  is  boil- 
ing over  a  fire  in  another  part. 

The  public  building  of  the  town  is  called  a 
"  barre,"  and  answers  nearly  the  same  purpose 
as  a  court-house.  It  has  a  mud  floor,  thatched 
roof,  and  a  few  rude  seats.  Some  barrcs  are 
open  on  one  side,  some  on  all  four ;  others 
are  circular  in  form.  Those  of  the  leading 
kings  arc  constructed  with  great  care,  and  look 
very  prettily.  Here  the  prince,  as  occasion  re- 
quires, sits  in  state  and  listens  to  the  palavers  " 


TOWNS,  HOUSES.  MAXUFACTUnES. 


G5 


or  disagreements  of  his  people,  and  decides 
them.  The  missionary,  too,  often  avails  him- 
self of  the  barre,  where  more  or  less  people  are 
usually  congregated,  to  repeat  the  story  of  the 
cross. 

It  has  been  said  that  an  African  village,  seen 
in  the  distance,  bears  a  strong  resemblance  to 
a  collection  of  weather-beaten  hay-stacks ;  and 
perhaps  this  homely  comparison  will  give  a  bet- 
tor idea  of  its  general  appearance  than  any 
other.  The  circular  houses,  with  their  pointed 
roofs  of  thatch  crowned  with  top-knots,  cer- 
tainly suggest  such  an  idea  to  a  new-comer. 
In  passing  walled  towns,  you  see  nothing  but 
the  high  barricade,  and  a  mass  of  thatched  roofs 
seeming  to  touch  each  other  everywhere. 

The  sites  of  the  African  towns  are  constantly 
changing.  Where  there  is  now  a  large,  flour- 
isliing  town,  in  a  few  years  there  may  be  noth- 
ing but  a  mass  of  ruins,  rapidly  growing  up  to 
bush.  The  construction  of  houses  is  so  light, 
and  the  depredations  of  insects  so  great,  that 
they  last  but  a  short  time ;  besides,  the  habits 
of  the  people  are  migratory.  The  numberless 
5 


GG  GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 

wars  of  the  country,  too,  destroy  many  towns, 
and  there  seems  to  be  a  feeling  prevalent  which 
prevents  a  king  from  building  a  new  town  on 
the  site  of  one  thus  destroyed. 

The  houses  of  foreign  residents  on  the  coast, 
and  of  the  wealthier  class  of  civilized  natives, 
are  commonly  constructed  of  wood  or  stone, 
and  are  two  stories  high.  The  lower  is  used 
for  a  store-room,  and  the  family  live  in  the  up- 
per part,  which  is  cooler  and  far  more  healthy, 
especially  during  the  rains,  when  everything 
near  the  ground  is  moldy  and  wet.  An  airy 
piazza  runs  across  one  or  two  sides  of  the 
house,  affording  an  admirable  resting-place  when 
one  is  hot  and  tired.  These  residences  arc 
often  richly  furnished,  and  present  a  striking 
contrast  to  the  mud  huts  that  surround  them 
Rich  hangings,  sofas  and  chairs,  and  costly  or- 
naments, adorn  the  rooms,  and  one  almost  for" 
gets  for  the  moment  that  he  is  in  a  heathen 
land.  The  mission-houses  are  plain,  but  com- 
fortable, though  the  pioneer  of  a  station  must 
suffer  many  privations  before  he  can  be  pro- 
vided with  such  a  home  as  his  health  requires. 


TOWXS,  HOUSES,  M.lNUFACTUllES. 


67 


Tlio  native  huts  arc  universally  known  as  "  coun- 
try houses." 

The  nutivo  manufactures  of  "West  Africa  are 
few  and  simple.  Tlic  heathen,  accustomed  to 
a  wild,  savage  life,  and  living  in  a  hot  climate, 
have  but  few  wants  which  bounteous  nature 
does  not  supply,  and  there  is  but  little  incentive 
to  industrious  effort.  They  show  much  native 
skill,  however,  in  the  articles  which  they  man- 
ufacture. Among  the  most  important  of  these 
are  the  "  country  cloths,"  made  from  cotton 
that  grows  on  the  coast.  Considering  the  rude 
implements  for  preparing  it,  this  cloth  is  of  a 
superior  quality.  The  spinning  apparatus  con- 
sists of  a  short,  spindle-shaped  piece  of  wood, 
having  a  small  weight  at  the  end,  through  which 
the  point  projects.  The  heavy  end  is  placed  on 
a  smooth,  solid  surface,  and  the  cotton  attached 
to  the  spindle,  which  is  set  in  motion  by  the 
hand.  Tlie  spindle  is  upright  when  in  motion, 
and  falls  when  it  stops,  so  that  an  unpracticed 
workman  would  make  poor  progress ;  but  the 
native  vromen  arc  very  expert  in  managing  it. 
The  whole  affair  is  scarcely  more  than  eight 


G8  GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 

inches  in  length.  It  might  be  supposed  that 
the  thread  thus  spnn  would  be  poor  and  uneven, 
but  on  the  contrary  it  is  quite  smooth. 

When  a  sufficient  quantity  of  this  thread  has 
been  prepared,  it  is  stretched  from  stick  to  stick, 
until  a  warp  of  appropriate  width,  and  many 
yards  in  length,  is  formed.  This  is  placed  in  a 
rude  loom,  and  inwoven  with  similar  thread. 
The  cloth  as  woven  is  only  six  inches  wide,  but 
the  strips  are  afterwards  sewed  together.  The 
loom,  in  principle,  resembles  the  old-fashioned 
hand-loom ;  but  it  has  no  frame,  and  is  so  small 
that  it  may  be  rolled  up  and  carried  by  a  little 
child  with  ease. 

Some  "  country  cloths "  are  white,  some 
striped  and  checked,  and  others  have  beauti- 
fully ornamented  and  fringed  borders.  The 
women  show  much  ingenuity  in  mingling  differ- 
ent colors  in  warp  and  filling.  These  cloths 
are  made  in  large  quantities  towards  the  inte- 
rior, from  whence  they  are  brought  to  the 
coast,  and  sold  to  traders.  They  form  a  large 
part  of  the  clothing  of  the  people.  When  fine 
and  soft,  they  make  handsome  table-cloths. 


Tojyys,  HOUSES,  manufactures.  C9 

The  country  blacksmith  is  another  important 
maiuifactnrer.  In  some  places  iron  ore  is 
found  in  abundance  ;  and  when  so,  it  is  gath- 
ered, placed  in  a  clay  pot,  and  melted.  The 
bellows  for  fanning  the  flame  is  a  curious  con- 
trivance. It  consists  of  a  block  of  wood  with 
two  perpendicular  openings,  which  communi- 
cate with  a  sort  of  horizontal  pipe.  A  piece  of 
goat-skin  is  fastened  over  these  cavities.  A 
small  hole  is  left  at  the  top,  by  which  the  air 
enters.  The  operator  puts  his  hand  over  the 
hole,  and  presses  down  the  skin,  thus  forcing 
the  air  through  the  pipe  upon  the  flame.  As 
he  lifts  his  hand  the  air  again  enters  the  cavity ; 
and  so,  alternately  rising  and  falling,  this  sim- 
ple contrivance  effects  the  same  purpose  as  a 
more  pretentious  bellows.  The  forge  is  a  rude 
fragment  of  iron,  or  a  stone.  Some  blacksmiths 
are  quite  skillful  in  the  manufacture  of  hatch- 
ets, cutlasses,  spears,  hoes,  and  other  imple- 
ments. The  native  iron  is  said  to  be  of  a  su- 
perior quality,  and  knives  are  sometimes  made 
from  it  with  so  keen  an  edge  as  to  be  used  for 
shaving  the  hair. 


70 


GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 


Another  common  article  of  manufacture  13 
the  "  country  mats."  They  are  made  from  the 
bamboo,  which  is  cut  when  quite  small,  peeled, 
dried,  and  afterwards  woven.  Some  of  these 
mats  are  quite  large,  and  make  an  excellent 
covering  for  floors  in  a  hot  climate.  Thoy  are 
woven  in  different  colors  and  patterns,  many  of 
which  arc  really  beautiful.  The  people  use 
them  for  a  variety  of  purposes,  such  as  tables, 
seats,  and  beds.  If  a  stranger  visits  them,  a 
mat  is  spread  on  the  mud  floor,  and  a  dish  of 
rice  and  fish  set  upon  it  for  him  to  eat.  If  a 
"palaver"  is  held,  or  a  missionary  preaches, 
they  sit  on  their  mats  to  listen.  If  they  wish 
to  sleep,  they  wrap  a  country  cloth  about  them, 
and  stretch  themselves  on  a  mat. 

A  variety  of  "  blies,"  or  baskets,  are  also 
made  from  the  bamboo.  Some  arc  large,  and 
will  hold  two  or  three  bushels,  but  more  gener 
ally  they  arc  of  a  convenient  size  for  carrying 
on  the  head.  Some  are  very  small,  and  fanci- 
fully woven  in  different  colors.  Beautiful  ta- 
ble-mats are  manufactured  from  the  same  sub- 
stance, also  the  common  country  hammock. 


TOirXS,  HOUSES,  MAX  [/FACT  UPiES.  71 

A  light,  gvaceful  stool,  of  singular  construction, 
and  usually  covered  with  matting  or  leopard 
skin,  is  made  by  the  natives.  Of  the  log  canoes 
dug  fi-om  the  trunks  of  trees,  I  have  before 
spoken.  The  process  is  a  very  laborious  one, 
but  it  is  performed  with  much  skill. 

Towards  the  close  of  the  dry  season,  when 
the  swamps  are  nearly  drained  of  water,  large 
quantities  of  salt  are  manufactui^ed  on  the 
marshy  portions  of  the  coast.  I  can  not  bet- 
ter describe  the  process  than  by  transcribing 
from  my  journal  the  record  of  a  visit  to  one 
of  these  manufactories :  — 

Leaving  the  barre,  where  I  had  been  en- 
gaged in  teaching  a  group  of  heathen,  I  set 
out  on  a  visit  to  the  native  salt-works.  Ac- 
companied by  the  chiefs  son,  I  walked  along 
the  winding  paths  past  clusters  of  mud-walled, 
palm-thatched  houses,  and  groups  of  half-naked 
people.  The  tropic  sun  was  still  high  in  the 
heavens,  but  an  umbrella  tempered  his  fierce 
rays.  As  we  left  the  town,  our  path  lay  through 
a  dense  bush. 

"  A  short  walk  brought  us  to  the  first  salt- 


72  GLLVrSES  OF  WEST  AFniCA. 

pond,  —  a  large,  level  space,  at  present  desti- 
tute of  water.  This  space  is  overflowed  by  the 
sea  at  flood  tide,  and  at  the  ebb  the  water  re- 
tires, leaving  the  ground  strongly  impregnated 
with  salt.  Crystals  of  the  pure  mineral  were 
glistening  in  the  sunshine  as  we  passed  along. 
A  woman,  with  a  strip  of  cloth  about  her  waist, 
was  busily  engaged  in  scraping  up  the  surface- 
earth  into  small  heaps,  which  are  afterwards 
carried  in  baskets  to  the  manufactory. 

"  Just  beyond  the  pond  we  came  upon  the  salt- 
works. Here  were  long  rows  of  strainers,  used 
for  separating  the  salt  from  the  dirt.  They  are 
funnel-shaped,  some  three  feet  in  diameter  at 
the  top  and  tapering  rapidly  to  a  point,  composed 
of  a  frame-work  of  sticks,  covered  with  palm 
leaves,  and  plastered  on  the  inside  with  mud. 
Tliese  strainers  are  suspended  over  long  wooden 
troughs,  and  filled  with  salt  earth  scraped  from 
the  pond.  Water  is  then  poured  on,  which 
drains  slowly  through,  dissolving  and  carrying 
with  it  the  salt. 

"Near  by  stood  the  boiling-house,  —  a  long, 
low  frame-work  of  poles,  covered  with  palm 


TOiryS,  HOUSES,  maxufactuuks. 


73 


thatch,  and  liaving  mats  hung  before  the  door- 
ways to  keep  out  the  wind.  Within  was  a  row 
of  large,  shallow  pans,  supported  by  a  sort  of 
Avliito  bricks  of  native  manufacture.  Hot  fires 
were  glowing  underneath,  rapidly  evaporating 
the  water,  and  leaving  pure,  beautiful  salt.  As 
I  stepped  into  the  boiling-house  for  a  moment, 
the  intense  heat  made  me  gasp  for  breath,  and 
I  could  scarcely  understand  how  those  poor  peo- 
ple could  endure  it  day  after  day. 

"  Much  of  the  salt  thus  manufactured  is  sold 
to  the  interior  tribes  for  country  cloths,  rice, 
and  palm-oil.  Nearly  all  the  work  is  done  by 
women  and  children.  Tlie  wives  of  the  old 
chief  of  Bonthe  were  toiling  in  the  manufactory 
which  we  visited.  Of  course  the  surroundings 
were  strange  and  heathenish,  but  after  all  there 
was  nuich  native  skill  shown  in  the  arrange- 
ments." 

The  ingenuity  of  the  people  is  shown  in  the 
manufacture  of  a  variety  of  little  articles.  On 
some  parts  of  the  coast  beautiful  car  and  finger 
rings  are  made  from  native  gold.  Finger  rings 
are  also  carved  from  the  palm  nut,  and  large 


74 


GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 


rings  for  the  wrist  are  made  from  the  hoof  of 
the  elephant.  The  "  gree-grees,"  "  medicines," 
and  charms,  so  universally  worn,  are  made  l)y 
particular  individuals,  upon  whom  the  common 
people  look  with  a  sort  of  fear.  It  is  said  that 
a  rude  kind  of  musket  is  manufactured  by  tlie 
tribes  towards  the  interior.  The  children  who 
have  been  gathered  from  heathen  homes  into 
mission  schools  show  a  remarkable  talent  for 
imitation,  and  are  able,  with  a  little  practice, 
to  construct  facsimiles  of  almost  any  article 
which  they  see.  The  faculty  of  originality  docs 
not  seem  to  be  so  fully  developed,  though  it  is 
not  entirely  wanting.  African  manufactures 
arc  few  and  simple,  but  not  to  be  despised. 


CHAPTER  Y. 


THE  PEOPLE  —  DRESS  —  LANGUAGE  —  FOOD. 

P?;ENTURIES  of  heathenism  have  left  sad 
P  marks  on  the  people  of  West  Africa.  This 


is  a  trite  saying,  but  it  contains  more  trutli 


than  most  readers  would  imagine.  Tlie 
churclies  at  home  are  accustomed  to  tliink  of 
heathen  countries  as  regions  of  darkness,  but 
they  do  not  fully  understand  the  dcjith  of  this 
darkness.  In  order  to  have  a  true  idea  of  the 
blight  and  mildew  that  rests  on  everything  ;  to 
see  the  terrible  dwai'fmg  and  crushing  power  of 
superstition  and  ignorance  ;  to  fathom  the  fear- 
ful depths  to  which  human  beings,  unl)lessed  by 
the  gospel  of  Christ,  can  descend,  —  one  must 
himself  stand  on  heathen  shores.  He  must  see 
the  people  in  their  homes.  He  must  live  among 
them.    He  must  see  with  his  own  eyes,  day 


76 


GL/VrSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 


after  day,  the  disgusting  sights  that  abound. 
He  must  witness  theii*  superstitious  ceremonies. 
He  must  learn  from  personal  experience  their 
deceit  and  dishonesty.  He  must  strive  to  make 
known  the  gospel  to  those  who  have  no  spiritual 
ideas.  And  if,  in  doing  this,  he  does  not  gain 
a  new  and  clearer  insight  into  heathen  degrada- 
tion, it  will  be  strange  indeed. 

No  pen,  however  gifted,  can  sketch  a  perfectly 
life-like  picture  of  the  people  of  this  country. 
There  are  many  little  things  which  baffle  descrip- 
tion ;  things  that  must  be  seen  to  be  understood. 
There  can  be  no  comparison  with  home  scenes, 
for  everything  here  is  in  perfect  contrast  with 
them ;  almost  as  widely  different  as  if  it  were 
of  another  world.  And  beside,  though  the  mis- 
sionary mingles  with  the  natives  daily,  and  sees 
their  superstitious  customs,  yet  even  he  finds  it 
difficult  to  ascertain  the  mental  ideas,  the  heart- 
beliefs,  that  give  rise  to  these  practices.  It  is 
easy  to  glance  at  the  outside  surface,  but  next 
to  impossible  to  probe  the  dark  mind  of  a  be- 
wildered heathen,  who  himself,  perhaps,  has  no 
clear  understanding  of  the  customs  that  he 


THE  PEOVLE,  DRESS,  LANGUAGE,  FOOD.  77 

Lliiull}'  follows.  Yet  the  pen  is  not  powerless ; 
and  plain,  homely  sketches  of  the  people  aftd 
their  habits  will  help  to  give  a  glimpse  of  the 
condition  of  West  Africa. 

The  stranger,  visiting  this  country,  is  struck 
•with  the  endless  variety  of  costumes,  as  well  as 
by  the  lack  of  all  costume.  Probably  there  is 
no  other  land  in  the  world  where  dress  differs 
so  widely,  or  is  worn  in  more  ludicrous  ways. 
There  are  certain  styles  peculiar  to  the  country, 
but  they  are  by  no  means  universally  followed. 
Fashion  allows  every  one  to  dress  just  as  ho 
pleases.  Everything  which  can  by  any  possibil- 
ity be  construed  as  clothing,  is  made  to  answer 
the  purpose,  and  is  worn  just  as  fancy  dictates. 

Only  a  little  covering  is  required  in  so  warm 
a  climate,  and  but  little  is  worn.  A  single  gar- 
ment often  comprises  the  whole  stock.  The  na- 
tive country  cloth  forms  the  chief  portion  of  it. 
This  varies  in  size,  but  is  ordmarily  about  two 
and  a  half  yards  long,  by  one  and  a  half  wide^ 
The  men  wrap  it  gracefully  around  the  body, 
one  end  falling  over  the  left  arm,  which  keeps 
it  in  place,  while  the  right  shoulder  and  arm 


78 


GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 


aro  bare.  "When  worn  in  this  way  it  readies 
nearly  to  the  ankles,  and  makes  a  decent  cover- 
ing. Sometimes  the  men  wear  nothing  but  a 
narrow  strip  of  cloth  about  the  loins.  A  sort 
of  shirt,  or  flowing  robe,  fashioned  from  country 
cloths,  is  quite  common.  When  the  pattern  of 
the  cloth  is  pretty,  and,  as  is  frequently  the 
case,  it  is  ornamented  in  the  rude  native  style, 
it  forms  a  pleasing  though  grotesque  costume. 
The  Mohammedans,  or  "  murray-men,"  usually 
wear  along  flowing  robe,  somewhat  ornamented. 

The  dress  of  the  native  women  consists  merely 
of  a  country  cloth  tied  around  the  waist,  and 
reaching  nearly  to  the  feet.  The  whole  iipper 
part  of  the  body  is  left  naked.  On  the  coast, 
where  foreign  goods  can  be  obtained,  a  piece 
of  calico  or  blue  baft  is  sometimes  substituted 
for  native  cloth.  Among  some  tribes,  girls  who 
are  not  married  wear  nothing  but  two  or  three 
strings  of  beads,  or  a  narrow  strip  of  cloth. 
Children  of  both  sexes  are  destitute  of  any 
clothing. 

African  women  have  their  own  ideas  of  beau- 
ty, and,  like  their  civilized  sisters,  some  of  them 


THE  PEOrLE,  DUESS,  LJXGUAGE,  FOOD.  70 


spend  a  good  deal  of  time  at  the  toilet.  In 
walking  through  a  village,  one  often  sees  them 
engaged  in  painting  tlicir  faces.  They  use  a 
white,  chalky  substance,  reduced  to  the  thick- 
ness of  cream.  Some  cover  their  faces  with  a 
smooth,  even  coat,  and  others  draw  fanciful 
figures  on  the  jet-black  skin.  I  have  often  seen 
mothers  ornamenting  their  children  in  this  way. 
They  first  wash  them  from  head  to  foot,  and  then 
cover  their  skin  with  the  cosmetic.  The  chil- 
dren are  highly  delighted  with  the  operation, 
but  present  a  queer  appearance  when  it  is  fin- 
ished, with  their  black,  woolly  hair,  rolling 
white  eyes,  and  shining  teeth.  A  mother  who 
is  particularly  fond  of  her  child  seeks  to  load  it 
with  ornaments.  Little  bands,  called  "  medi- 
cines," are  tied  around  its  ankles  and  wrists  ; 
gree-grees,  and  strings  of  shells^  bits  of  money, 
and  little  bells, — everything,  in  short,  bright  or 
gay,  that  the  mother's  ingenuity  can  pick  up, 
are  hung  around  its  neck  and  body.  Often  have 
I  seen  a  heathen  mother's  face  light  up  with  a 
smile  of  pride  as  she  watched  her  painted  little 


80 


GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 


one  go  toddling  along  with  its  load  of  "  medi- 
cines," jingling  bells,  and  rattling  shells. 

The  modes  of  wearing  the  hair  vary  widely. 
Sometimes  it  is  left  in  its  natural  state,  but 
commonly  the  women  spend  much  time  in  ar- 
ranging it.  It  is  worn  in  braids,  and  in  long 
curls,  done  in  a  variety  of  fanciful  styles,  point- 
ing in  every  direction.  The  heads  of  the  chil- 
dren are  frequently  shaved.  Sometimes  the 
top  of  a  man's  head  is  bare,  while  a  ring  of  hair 
is  left  just  above  the  neck ;  others  have  a  tuft 
of  hair  on  the  crown,  and  the  rest  closely  shaved. 
Turbans,  fashioned  from  gay-colored  handker- 
chiefs, are  very  popular  among  the  women, 
whenever  they  can  be  obtained.  Even  those 
who  arc  civilized  often  attend  chapel  wearing 
one  of  these  head-dresses,  on  the  top  of  which 
is  mounted  a  man's  common  straw  or  wool  hat. 
The  heathen  women  towards  the  interior  usually 
have  no  head-dresses,  though  the  aged  sometimes 
use  a  small  country  cloth  for  that  purpose.  The 
men  will  go  without  any  covering  for  their  heads 
in  the  hottest  mid-day  sun  ;  but  dui-ing  the  rainy 
season,  or  at  night,  they  arc  exceedingly  fond 


THE  PEOPLE,  DRESS,  LAXnUACE,  FOOD.  81 

of  bluG  and  rod  woolen  caps.  They  show  but 
little  foresight ;  if  tliey  happen  to  have  two  or 
three  hats,  perhaps  they  will  wear  them  all  at 
once,  and  afterwards  be  obliged  to  go  without 
any. 

The  native  African  is  extremely  fond  of  orna- 
ments, and  the  more  he  can  obtain,  the  better 
satisfied  he  seems.  These  ornaments  are  of 
home  manufacture,  and  often  give  a  wild,  sav- 
age look  to  the  wearer.  His  arm  is  adorned 
with  half  a  dozen  large  rings,  made  of  some 
horny  substance,  perhaps  the  hoof  of  an  ele- 
phant, and  dotted  with  little  bits  of  silver  or 
shining  steel.  About  his  ankles  are  tied  small 
scraps,  called  "  medicines."  An  almost  endless 
variety  of  rude  chains  and  gree-grccs  hang  from 
his  neck.  The  leading  "war-men"  generally 
carry  swords  or  spears,  to  distinguish  them  from 
others.  Many  of  the  women  wear  gold  ear- 
rings. In  short,  there  is  no  end  to  the  fantastic 
decorations  of  the  people. 

Sandals  are  worn  in  West  Africa  to  some  ex- 
tent.   One  variety  is  called  the  "  rainy  season 

boot."    It  is  made  of  wood,  with  four  small 
6 


82 


CLIMPSKS  OF  JTEST  AFRICA. 


supports  on  the  bottom,  two  or  three  inches  in 
length,  by  moans  of  which  the  foot  is  kept  from 
tlio  ground.  Others  are  made  of  leather.  Tlio 
Avcaring  of  sandals  is  confined  mostly  to  the 
Mohammedans.  The  majority  of  the  people 
perform  even  their  longest  journeys  barefooted. 

The  grotesque  ideas  of  dross  which  prevail 
show  themselves  in  many  different  ways,  im- 
possible to  describe,  but  ridiculous  in  the  ex- 
treme. Articles  of  English  wear,  when  they 
can  be  obtained,  are  so  mixed  up  with  the  na- 
tive costume,  or  worn  in  such  a  ludicrous  man- 
ner, as  to  provoke  laughter.  A  large  boy,  per- 
haps, goes  strutting  round,  arrayed  simply  in  a 
black  frock  coat.  A  little  child  comes  toddling 
after,  entirely  naked,  except  that  a  large  straw 
hat  is  perched  on  his  head.  A  heathen  king, 
not  long  since,  presided  over  a  great  "  palaver," 
wearing  an  old  red  military  coat  with  brass 
buttons',  and  a  black  beaver  hat  on  his  head  ; 
otlicrwise,  he  was  entirely  naked. 

The  wealthier  class  of  civilized  natives  dress 
in  American  style,  and  indeed  nearly  all  tlie 
men.   Some  of  the  women  wear  a  loose,  flowin<r 


THE  PEOPLE,  DRESS,  LANGUAGE,  FOOD.  83 


gown,  called  a  "  coverslat,"  which,  with  tho 
prettily  tied  turban,  forms  a  neat  dress,  well 
adapted  to  the  climate.  A  simple  sliirt  is  the 
ordinary  dross  of  school-children.  In  walking 
through  the  larger  semi-civilized  towns,  a 
strange  sight  greets  the  eye,  —  a  mixture  of 
many  costumes,  mingling  in  one  general  stream 
of  pedestrians.  Here  goes  a  lady  in  silks  and 
muslin,  and  there  another  wrapped  only  in  a 
country  cloth.  Yonder  is  a  sea-captain  with  his 
broad-brimmed  hat,  and  following  him  a  tall 
Mohammedan  in  a  flowing  robe.  Now  we  see 
a  Christian  with  his  Bible,  and  then  a  heathen 
with  his  gree-gree.  Here  is  a  child  in  full  Eng- 
lish dress,  and  there  another  entirely  destitute 
of  clothing.  And  so  the  motley  throngs  come 
and  go,  showing  that  the  waves  of  civilization 
are  steadily  rolling  in  iipon  the  country,  and 
beating  back  heathen  customs. 

One  of  tho  first  lessons  a  missionary  is  re- 
quired to  teach  the  natives  here  is  to  dress. 
The  heat  of  the  climate,  and  the  natural  indo- 
lence of  the  people,  both  unite  to  keep  them  in 
the  old  ways.    Their  aml)ition  must  bs  awak- 


84 


GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 


encd,  even  at  the  risk  of  its  being  carried  too 
far.  There  is  a  tendency  among  many  who  have 
bscn  surroimded  by  civilized  influences  to  throw 
off  their  clothing  as  soon  as  those  influences 
arc  withdrawn.  It  is  a  sore  trial  to  the  mission- 
ary to  sec  those  who  once  were  neatly  dressed, 
relapsing  into  the  habits  of  the  heathen  in  this 
respect.  Nor  is  cai'clessness  about  dress  the 
only  thing  that  pains  his  heart.  Native  con- 
verts arc  prone  to  fall  in  with  many  of  the  hea- 
then customs  and  foolish  ways.  Instead  of 
maintaining  a  higher  level,  and  drawing  the 
people  Tip  to  them,  it  is  too  often  the  case  that 
they  descend  to  the  people.  This,  doubtless,  is 
the  natural  result  of  centuries  of  heathenism. 
That  strength  of  mind,  energy,  and  ambition, 
which  mark  the  inhabitants  of  enlightened 
lands,  is  not  theirs ;  and  even  though  the  love 
of  God  dwells  in  their  hearts,  they  can  not  in 
one  or  two  generations  rise  entirely  above  those 
degrading  influences.  But  there  is  improve- 
ment in  this  respect.  Step  by  step,  the  long- 
degraded  sons  and  daughters  of  Africa  are  ris- 
ing in  the  scale  of  civilization  and  Christianity. 


THE  PEOPLE,  DllESS,  LANGUAGE,  FOOD.  85 


The  largo  number  of  languages  spoken  in 
West  Africa  tends  to  embarrass  tlic  missionary 
in  his  labors.  If  there  was  one  language  com- 
mon to  the  wliolc  coast,  or  even  were  there  but 
a  few  large  tribes  speaking  different  dialects,  it 
would  be  comparatively  easy  to  give  the  people 
the  gospel  in  their  own  tongue.  But  this  is  not 
the  case.  An  almost  unlimited  number  of  petty 
tribes  have  each  their  own  barbarous,  unwritten 
language.  To  translate  the  Bible  into  all  of 
these,  or  to  become  so  familiar  with  them  as  to 
bo  able  to  preach  in  them,  seems  from  experi- 
ence to  be  hopeless.  True,  much  has  boon 
done,  and  portions  of  the  Bible  have  been  i)rinted 
in  some  twenty  of  the  languages  of  tho  coast. 
Tliese,  however,  are  but  a  small  part  of  the  vdiolo 
number.  In  the  single  city  of  Freetown,  Si- 
erra Leone,  it  is  estimated  that  thirty  different 
tongues  are  spoken.  Wherever  civilization  and 
Christianity  take  root,  the  Englisli  language 
makes  rapid  advance ;  in  fact,  the  native  dia- 
lects, like  the  heathen  customs,  soem  to  die 
away  at  their  approach.  In  many  instances  the 
books  tliat  have  been  published  ia  the  native 


8G 


GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 


tongues  lie  idle,  while  those  in  English  ai'C  ea- 
gerly received.  There  are  many  reasons  for 
this.  One  is,  the  people  can  not  read  at  all  till 
they  are  taught,  and  they  can  learn  to  read  in 
English  about  as  easily  as  in  their  own  lan- 
guage. 

Another  reason  is,  the  facility  with  which 
the  African  acquires  a  new  language.  He  has 
a  remarkable  talent  in  this  direction,  and  his 
wild,  vagrant  life,  wandering  from  one  tribe  to 
another,  and  mingling  almost  daily  with  those 
who  speak  a  different  tongue  from  his  own,  tends 
to  develop  it.  It  is  no  uncommon  thing  for 
half-naked  boatmen,  who  can  not  read  a  letter, 
to  be  able  to  speak  five  or  six  languages  flu- 
ently. Father  Johnson,  an  aged  interpreter  in 
the  Mendi  Mission,  a  native  of  the  Kissy  coun- 
try far  interior,  is  acquainted  with  fifteen  differ- 
ent dialects,  —  among  them  English,  Spanish, 
and  Portuguese, — yet  he  can  not  read  a  word. 
Persons  who  are  entirely  ignorant  of  English, 
coming  amid  the  influences  of  civilization,  learn 
it  in  an  astonishingly  short  time. 

Doubtless  there  are  some  exceptions  to  these 


THE  PEOPLE,  DRESS,  LANCUAUE,  FOOD.  87 


observations.  Whenever  circumstances  permit, 
as  among  large  tribes,  it  is  desirable  that  the 
gospel  should  be  published  and  taught  in  the 
native  tongue ;  but  among  most  of  the  petty 
coast  tribes,  I  am  fully  convinced  that  English 
will  be  the  language,  as  Clu-istianity  advances. 
It  is  too  often  the  case  that  a  missionary,  after 
spending  two  or  three  years  in  the  country, 
and  laborhig  earnestly  to  reduce  some  barbarous 
language  to  writing,  is  compelled  by  sickness  to 
go  home.  Very  frequently  he  never  returns, 
and  so  his  efforts  are  almost  lost.  Had  the 
same  amount  of  energy  and  toil  been  expended 
in  sjireading  the  knowledge  of  English,  much 
more  might  have  been  accomplished.  True,  it 
is  a  pleasant  sound  to  the  churches  at  home  to 
hear  that  the  gospel  has  been  translated  into 
tlie  dialect  of  some  heathen  tribe  on  the  dark 
coast  of  ^^'est  Africa  ;  but  sometimes  these  home 
reports  wear  a  gilded  covering,  which  the  mis- 
sionary on  the  ground  can  not  see.  Not  long 
since,  the  committee  of  a  missionary  society  re- 
ported to  the  churches  that  "  the  Word  of  Life 
was  given  to  the  people  in  their  own  language ; " 


88 


GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFmCA. 


while  the  real  truth  of  the  matter  was,  that, 
though  portions  of  the  New  Testament  had  been 
translated  and  printed,  the  books  lay  stacked 
in  the  mission-house,  scarcely  one  in  circula- 
tion, and  no  desire  manifested  for  them.  The 
reason  was,  that  all  who  could  read  preferred 
English.  It  is  often  difficult  to  get  those  who 
understand  both  English  and  native  to  read  the 
latter.  As  I  have  said,  there  are  exceptions ; 
but  as  a  general  rule  there  are  greater  obstacles 
in  the  way  of  translating  in  West  Africa  than 
in  most  heathen  countries.  Of  course,  among 
all  tribes.  Christian  natives  can  proclaim  the 
gospel  in  their  respective  tongues. 

The  educated  natives  of  this  country  speak 
English  correctly,  but  those  whose  knowledge  is 
limited  often  talk  very  brokenly.  Indeed,  to  a 
stranger,  when  he  first  lands  on  these  shores,  it 
almost  seems  like  a  strange  tongue,  and  he  is 
disgusted  with  the  outlandish  mutilations.  Thi^ 
dialect  at  Sierra  Leone  is  known  by  foreigners 
as  "  Sierra  Leone  English,"  and  it  violates  every 
principle  of  grammar  and  sense.  It  is  impossi- 
ble to  give  a  true  idea  of  it  on  paper,  for  the 


THE  PEOPLE,  nUESS,  LANGUAGE,  FOOD.  89 


tones  of  voice  and  odd  gosturcs  form  a  promi- 
nent part.  The  word  "  sabby "  is  on  every- 
body's lips,  and  means  nearly  the  same  as  xm- 
derstand.  If  anything  is  not  fully  comjjre- 
hended  the  reply  is,  "  Daddy,  me  no  sabby."  If 
there  is  any  dispute,  it  is  a  "  palaver ; "  if  very 
violent,  "  a  big  palaver."  If  anybody  has  bft, 
the  expression  is,  "  He  done  gone."  The  Avord 
"  live  "  is  applied  to  all  inanimate  objects  ;  thus 
of  a  capo  or  mountain  it  is  said,  "He  live  doro." 
If  a  person  is  particularly  happy,  he  is  "  glad 
too  much."  And  so,  in  an  almost  endless  va- 
riety of  ways,  the  language  is  tortured,  till  you 
can  scarcely  recognize  your  mother  tongue.  At 
first  you  are  shocked ;  afterwards  rejoiced  to 
have  even  such  a  way  to  reach  the  minds  and 
hearts  of  the  people. 

This  broken  English  is  more  comprehensive 
in  explaining  spiritual  ideas  than  most  of  the 
native  languages.  Some  of  these  are  sadly  lack- 
ing in  this  respect.  Nearly  all  of  them,  how- 
ever, have  a  word  for  "  the  Great  Spirit,"  or 
God.  In  Sherbro,  he  is  called  HobiitolcG ;  in 
Mendi,  Ngiiwaw ;  in  Vey,  Kanabar ;  in  Timminy, 


90  GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFIIICA. 

Ki'oomassa;  in  Kissy,  Melikii.  Iii  the  Moudi 
language  thero  is  no  word  for  "  repent,"  and 
the  people  seem  to  have  no  understanding  of 
the  idea  suggested  by  it.  As  a  sample  of  "West 
African  languages,  I  copy  the  following  trans- 
lation of  the  Lord's  Prayer  in  Shcrbro,  whicli  is 
spoken  by  a  tribe  living  on  the  coast  between 
seven  and  eight  degrees,  north  latitude  :  — 

SELLEY  BA  HIH  JISU3  KRAIST  LEH. 

Bii  hih  wunnch  aiyenntokrai  kol,  ilil  moa  reh 
che  shcmbeh.  Beyl'i  moa  reh  leh  boon.  Ja  leh 
moa  reh  che  hahh'neh  lehhli  reh  iitok,  ke:i  lioa 
Ich  aiyenntokrai  ko'l  eh.  N'ka  hih  nanda 
njehmah  hih,  palli.  N'mai  reh  bon  hih  len, 
ken'nyeh  yi  maia  abonkoa  hih  leneh.  N'ma 
hih  reh  yok  ki  nghel,  kc  n'koslii  h'ih  jii  leh  woai. 
Halyeh  Beyli  leh  leh  liah  moa  eh,  fossa  reh,  ni" 
gbeng  dch,  hal  chung  nenen  gba.  Amen. 

Arabic  is  spoken  to  a  considerable  exte;it 
among  the  tribes  a  little  back  from  the  coast. 
Some  are  able  to  write  it,  and  many  to  read  it. 
The  Vey  language,  spoken  by  the  Gallinas  p(!0- 
ple,  i?  also  written. 


THE  PEOPLE,  DPESS,  LANGUAGE,  FOOD.  91 


The  food  of  the  people  is  simple.  Rice  is  the 
"  staff  of  life  ; "  and  without  it  there  would  soon 
be  a  famine.  It  forms  a  part,  and  the  chief 
part,  of  every  meal,  when  it  can  be  obtained, 
which  is  almost  always  the  case.  Sometimes  it 
is  eaten  alone,  but  fish  and  palm-oil  are  the  two 
favorite  accompaniments.  If  an  African  is  well 
supplied  with  rice  and  fish,  ho  can  fare  £ump- 
taously  every  day.  Cassada,  sweet  potatoes, 
coco,  and  a  variety  of  vegetables  and  fruits,  are 
also  used  as  food,  but  they  all  occupy  a  subordi- 
nate place  to  rice.  The  cassada  root  is  often 
beaten  into  flour,  and  then  made  into  small 
round  balls,  called  "  foo-foo,"  which  arc  highly 
prized.  "  Palaver  sauce,"  made  of  a  variety  of 
herbs  stewed  in  palm-oil,  is  one  of  the  dainties 
of  the  country.  So  is  the  species  of  ant  known 
as  the  "  bug-a-bug,"  which  is  eagerly  gathered, 
fried,  and  eaten.  Cooked  cats  are  said  to  be 
regarded  as  great  delicacies.  Lizards,  snakes, 
and  worms  arc  sometimes  used  as  food ;  and 
soups  seasoned  with  certain  bugs  are  i;i  high 
repute.  Much  that  is  disgusting  to  civilized 
eyes  in  the  way  of  food  is  constaiitly  mot  with. 


02 


CLTMPSJiS  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 


Tlio  time  of  eating  is  very  irregular.  Tlie 
people  commonly  have  but  two  meals  in  a  day ; 
the  first  about  noon,  and  the  last  in  the  evening. 
It  is  an  African's  delight  to  cat  a  hearty  meal 
just  before  going  to  sleep.  If  necessary,  he  can 
go  without  food  for  a  long  time,  but  afterwards 
he  will  be  sure  to  make  up  the  fidl  quantity  by 
inordinate  stuffing.  A  quart  of  rice  is  the  ordi- 
nary allowance  for  a  day ;  and  sometimes  a  man 
will  save  it  all  for  the  evening  meal. 

The  modes  of  eating  are  primitive  in  the  ex- 
treme. The  table  and  chairs  are  the  ground ; 
the  table-cloth,  if  any,  a  mat ;  the  dishes,  an  iron 
pot,  and  perhaps  a  tin  cup  or  "  calabash  ;  "  the 
knives  and  forks,  the  fingers.  It  is  a  novel 
sight,  at  first,  to  witness  the  native  meals.  You 
are  walking  through  a  village,  perhaps,  and  sud- 
denly come  upon  a  group  of  people  squatting 
on  the  ground  in  a  circle.  Some  are  wrapped 
in  country  cloths ;  some  have  chalk-marked 
faces,  and  some  are  loaded  with  gree-grees.  In 
the  center  of  the  circle  stands  an  old  iron  pot, 
full  of  rice,  which  has  just  been  boiled  over  a 
fire  now  smoldering  near  by.    A  few  dried  fish 


THE  PEOPLE,  DRESS,  LANGUAGE,  FOOD.  93 


lie  ill  a  pan,  and  a  gourd-shell  calabash  is  filled 
■with  water  for  drinking.  One  after  another,  the 
people  thrust  their  hands  into  the  pot,  and  bring 
forth  a  handful  of  rice,  which  they  squeeze 
together,  and  then  stuff  into  their  mouths. 
Now  and  then  they  pick  off  a  piece  of  fish,  or 
take  a  drink  of  water  from  the  calabash.  Mean- 
time, they  chatter  away  in  their  native  tongue, 
and  indulge  in  outbursts  of  merriment.  Each 
one  is  anxious  to  get  his  share,  and  so  the  con- 
tents of  the  pot  disappear  with  astonishing  ra- 
pidity. 

But,  rude  as  is  their  mode  of  living,  the 
native  Africans  are  very  hospitable.  A  stranger 
is  generously  lodged  and  supplied  with  food. 
If  a  man  be  extremely  poor,  he  would  consider 
it  utterly  beneath  him  to  refuse  to  divide  his 
rice  and  fish  with  a  suffering  brother.  Some 
dwellers  in  Christian  America  might  learn  a 
lesson  in  this  respect  from  the  untutored  hea- 
then of  West  Africa. 


CHAPTER  VI. 


HABITS  —  SUPERSTITION. 

'  HE  people  of  West  Africa,  like  the  inhabit- 
ants of  every  heathen  country,  have  many 
^  habits  peculiar  to  themselves ;  but  I  can 
hope  only  to  give  glimpses  of  a  few  of  them. 
Some  have  been  noticed  in  preceding  chapters. 

In  many  respects,  their  faults  and  foibles  are 
similar  to  those  of  other  heathen.  The  mis- 
sionary's heart  is  often  pained  by  the  lying  and 
dishonesty  which  he  can  not  but  discover.  So 
great  is  the  debasing  power  of  heathenism,  that 
even  among  those  who  give  evidence  of  a  change 
of  heart  it  is  difficult  to  instill  those  high-toned 
principles  of  truth  and  honor  which  ouglit  to 
prevail.  They  can  hardly  believe  that  little 
evasions  of  truth  and  little  acts  of  dishonesty 
arc  sins.  Habit,  like  a  chain,  binds  them  to 
94 


ii.i  rt  I  rs.  s  urr.ns  ri  r/oy. 


do 


many  practices  over  which  wo  arc  compelled 
to  cast  the  mantle  of  charity,  while  at  the  samo 
time  wo  seek  to  uproot  them.  Many  converts, 
however,  are  bright  examples  of  the  religion  of 
Jesus. 

One  marked  feature  in  the  character  of  this 
people  is  their  great  dread  of  reporting  the  mis- 
deeds of  others.  They  are  by  no  means  "  tell- 
tales." If  some  wrong  has  been  committed, 
and  you  seek  to  discover  the  perpetrator,  it  will 
sometimes  require  your  utmost  ingenuity.  You 
may  ask  half  a  dozen,  but,  with  the  most  inno- 
cent-looking faces,  they  will  utterly  deny  all 
knowledge  of  the  matter,  while  at  the  same 
time,  perhaps,  you  are  certain  that  they  know 
all  about  it.  This  feeling  may  be  partly  ac- 
counted for  from  a  fear  that  the  reported  party 
will  revenge  himself  upon  them,  as  this  is  a 
common  custom.  Sometimes  the  revenge  is 
murder. 

Foreigners  are  generally  treated  with  kind- 
ness ;  but  if  they  arouse  the  enmity  of  the 
people  the  retribution  is  terrible.  The  follow- 
ing true  story  will  illustrate  something  of  the 


9G  GLLVrSEH  OF  WEST  AFniCA. 

customs  of  tho  heathen,  and  also  show  the  won- 
derful workings  of  Providence  in  raising  up  a 
missionary  of  the  cross  :  — 

Several  years  ago,  one  of  the  trading  vessels 
which  come  from  England  to  this  coast  chanced 
to  stop  at  Taboo,  a  native  town  in  the  southern 
part  of  the  present  republic  of  Liberia.  The 
captain  wished  to  obtain  a  supply  of  palm-oil  in 
exchange  for  cloths  and  other  articles  which  he 
had  brought  from  England.  The  oil  was  not 
ready  for  shipment,  but  a  bargain  being  made 
with  the  chiefs  that  it  should  be  delivered  at  a 
certain  time,  he  very  unwisely  left  with  them  a 
quantity  of  goods  in  payment.  The  steward, 
named  Toomcy,  knowing  the  character  of  the 
natives,  remonstrated  against  such  a  course, 
and  prophesied  trouble  as  the  result ;  but  his 
suggestions  were  not  heeded. 

Having  made  his  arrangements,  the  captain 
proceeded  down  the  coast,  and  at  the  appointed 
time  returned  to  Taboo  for  his  oil.  But,  as 
might  have  been  expected,  no  oil  was  to  be  ob- 
tained. He  cruised  about  for  some  days,  and 
at  length,  becoming  convinced  that  the  natives 


HABITS  SUPERSTITWy. 


97 


did  not  intend  to  fulfill  their  agreement,  he  de- 
vised a  ])lan  to  compel  them  to  do  so.  Ho  en- 
ticed a  few  of  the  chief  men  on  board  his  ves- 
sel, where  he  kept  them  as  prisoners.  This,  of 
course,  greatly  incensed  the  tribe,  and  they  be- 
gan plotting  for  revenge.  One  day,  as  the  cap- 
tain stood  on  deck,  he  saw  a  large  number  of 
canoes  putting  off  from  the  shore.  They  seemed 
to  contain  vessels  of  palm-oil,  and  he  supposed 
that  the  agreement  was  about  to  be  fulfilled. 
The  people  brought  with  them  a  sheep  and  rice 
for  a  feast,  and  were  readily  allowed  to  come  on 
board ;  but  no  sooner  did  they  gain  tlic  deck 
than  a  fearful  scene  of  butchery  commenced. 
Tlic  captain  and  all  the  crew,  v\'ith  the  excep- 
tion of  the  steward,  were  murdered.  Toomey 
had  fled  to  the  hold,  and  hid  himself  under 
some  loose  articles  that  were  lying  there. 
Search  was  made  for  him,  and  several  times 
tilings  were  pxdlcd  from  beneath  and  above  him, 
but  he  remained  undiscovered.  At  length  mos' 
of  the  attacking  party  returned  to  the  town, 
leaving  a  few  to  watch  the  ship.  The  steward, 
meantime,  was  in  great  agony  of  mind,  and  had 
7 


08 


GLIMI'.^ES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 


resolved  to  throw  himself  overboard  to  escape 
a  more  terrible  fate  ;  but  before  he  could  carry 
his  resolution  into  effect,  he  was  found  by  the 
gv.ard.  It  seems  that  Toomey  had  previously 
showed  them  some  kindnesses,  and  instead  of 
killing  him  at  once,  they  concluded  to  leave  him 
for  future  disposal.  So  he  was  Imrried  into  a 
canoe,  with  but  little  clothing,  and  taken  on 
shore.  The  sun  was  intensely  hot,  and  he  was 
suffering  from  a  high  fever,  and  on  reaching 
the  town  he  asked  for  a  drink  of  water,  which 
was  given  him. 

The  chief  men  were  soon  called  together  to 
decide  his  fate.  It  is  a  law  of  the  tribe  that  the 
life  of  those  who  eat  and  drink  with  them  shall 
be  held  sacred.  Some  were  for  instant  death  ; 
others  said  that  as  he  had  drunk  water  in  their 
houses,  he  could  not  be  killed  ;  and  so  his  life 
was  spared.  This  poor  Irish  lad,  who  at  that 
time  did  not  even  know  the  alphabet,  was  after- 
wards educated  by  the  American  Episcopal 
Mission  at  Cape  Palmas,  and  is  now  the  Rev. 
Thomas  Toomey,  an  efficient  missionary  of  the 
cross  among  the  very  people  who  were  once  al- 


jiAnirs,  suPEnsTiTioy. 


99 


most  his  murderers.  Truly,  the  ways  of  God 
arc  mysterious,  and  he  makes  the  wrath  of  man 
to  praise  him. 

Other  instances  of  revenge  might  be  related, 
but  this  is  sufficient  to  show  that  although  the 
people  are  kind  and  hospitable  to  strangers, 
their  enmity  if  provoked  is  terrible. 

The  etiquette  of  the  country  requires  stran- 
gers who  visit  a  town  to  call  on  the  king  or 
chief,  and  make  him  some  present.  If  this  is 
done,  the  king  feels  bound  to  respect  their  rights 
while  in  his  territory.  If  anything  is  stolen 
from  them  a  "  palaver  "  will  bo  held,  and  the 
thief  if  possible  discovered  and  punished.  He 
also  supplios  them  with  a  house,  and  sometimes 
with  food.  But  if  they  neglect  to  bestow  a 
present,  the  king  is  not  responsible  for  anything 
that  may  befall  them.  These  presents  consist 
of  various  articles,  such  as  cloth,  cotton  hand- 
kerchiefs, mirrors,  fish-hooks,  knives,  and  thread. 
As  a  consequence  of  this  custom,  travelers  in 
the  interior  are  obliged  to  carry  with  them  a 
supply  of  these  articles,  to  win  the  protection  of 
the  chiefs.    A  present  costing  fifty  cents  is  gen- 


100 


GLIMI'SES  OF  WEST  AFPdCA. 


erally  sufficient,  unless  some  special  favor  is  to 
be  asked ;  but  tlie  more  you  give  tbe  more  re- 
spect will  be  shown  you.  Foreign  traders,  wlio 
wish  to  deal  with  the  people  in  palm-oil  and 
the  native  products,  are  very  lavish  with  their 
presents,  especially  rum.  But  the  kings  un- 
derstand their  real  character,  and  have  not  one 
half  of  the  confidence  in  them  that  they  have  in 
the  missionary,  though  his  present  may  be  much 
smaller. 

When  any  special  favor  is  desired,  such  as 
the  grant  of  a  piece  of  land  for  a  trading  facto- 
ry or  mission-house,  the  custom  of  the  country 
requires  tlie  purchaser  to  "  make  cananory  ;  " 
that  is,  the  neighboring  chiefs  are  called  to- 
gether in  council,  valuable  presents  are  given 
them,  the  matter  is  discussed  with  much  cere- 
mony, and  the  conditions  of  the  grant  decided 
upon.  Sometimes  a  full  deed  of  the  ground  is 
given  for  a  certain  sum  of  money ;  at  others,  a 
yearly  rent  is  agreed  upon. 

Tliis  money  is  usually  reckoned  by  the  "  bar," 
which  is  equal  to  sixty  American  cents,  and  is 
paid  in  articles  similar  to  those  used  for  pres- 


JTABrrS,  SUPEPiSTITIOy. 


101 


cuts.  Gold  and  silver  form  no  part  of  the  nativo 
currency,  but  cloth,  tobacco,  rum,  and  all  arti- 
cles of  trade,  are  known  by  the  general  name 
of  "  money."  On  some  parts  of  the  coast 
strings  of  a  peculiar  kind  of  shells,  called  "  cow- 
ries," are  used  for  money,  but  they  form  a  very 
bulky  currency,  since  it  takes  large  numbers  to 
equal  the  value  of  a  penny. 

If  agreements  are  entered  into  with  the  na- 
tives, they  always  wish  a  copy  of  them,  written 
on  paper,  which  they  call  "  book."  This  "book," 
signed  by  both  parties,  is  carefully  preserved, 
and  often  shown  to  strangers.  In  the  native 
vocabulary,  everything  written  or  printed  is 
known  by  the  general  name  of  "  book."  If  a 
letter  is  brought  you,  they  say,  "  Massa,  I  done 
bring  you  book ;  "  if  they  wish  to  learn  to  read, 
it  is,    Please,  sir,  I  want  to  learn  book." 

Trading  is  a  favorite  occupation  of  the  people, 
and  is  often  carried  so  far  as  to  prove  a  curse 
to  the  country.  On  the  partly  civilized  portions 
of  the  coast  there  are  immense  numbers  of  jiotty 
traders,  who  will  spend  the  whole  day  in  efforts 
to  obtain  a  few  coppers  in  exchange  for  some 


102  GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFItlCA. 

worthless  article.  Agriculture  suffers  as  a 
consequence,  and  many  grovel  in  tlie  deepest 
poverty,  who  might  bo  independent  farmers. 
The  country  people  are  quite  skillful  in  trade, 
and  unless  one  is  acquainted  with  the  worth  of 
things,  he  will  be  likely  to  be  cheated.  The 
most  extravagant  prices  are  asked  for  arti- 
cles, —  ten  or  twelve  times  as  much  as  the  seller 
expects  to  obtain.  The  missionary  is  obliged 
to  trade  with  them,  and  his  patience  is  often 
severely  taxed  in  concluding  a  bargain. 

It  is  difficult  to  get  a  clear  idea  of  the  religious 
belief  of  the  natives  of  this  country  ;  indeed,  it 
may  be  said  that  they  have  no  clear  ideas  of  the 
subject  themselves.  They  offer  their  little  sac- 
rifices, and  perform  their  ceremonies,  more 
blindly  than  the  heathen  in  many  other  parts 
of  the  world.  They  seem  to  adhere  to  their 
"  customs"  simply  because  it  is  the  fashion  of 
their  country,  and  not  from  a  clear  understand- 
ing of  the  object.  Superstition  reigns  over 
them,  and  shapes  their  actions.  Tlicy  grope 
blindly  in  its  mazes,  degraded,  crushed,  bewil- 
dered. 


HABITS,  SUPERSTITIOX. 


103 


The  worship  of  idols  of  wood  and  stouc  is 
not  common  on  the  immediate  coast,  tliough  it 
prevails  to  some  extent.  The  remains  of  sev- 
eral stone  idols  were  fonnd  a  few  years  ago  at 
Mo  Tappan,  one  of  the  stations  of  the  Mendi 
Mission,  exhibiting  various  forms  of  disease  in 
the  human  body.  It  is  supposed  that  they  were 
worshiped  by  persons  afflicted  with  such  dis- 
eases. I  have  sometimes  thought  that  tliis  field 
would  bo  more  hopeful  if  idol-worship  prevailed, 
for  then  the  people  would  see  more  clearly  the 
importance  of  being  faithful  in  some  religion. 
But  though  they  do  not  bow  down  to  wood  and 
stone,  they  are  still  none  the  less  heathen.  Yf  e 
sec  their  superstition  in  a  hundred  forms. 
They  believe  in  a  multitude  of  "  spirits,"  to 
whom  they  offer  sacrifices  for  the  purpose  of 
appeasing  their  wrath  or  obtaining  some  favor. 
Tliese  spirits  are  supposed  to  reside  in  tlie  trees, 
rocks,  mountains,  rivers,  and  bug-a-bug  hills, 
and  to  have  different  kinds  of  power.  The  offer- 
ings consist  of  I'ice,  palm-oil,  cloth,  tin  cups,  or 
almost  any  article  which  the  person  has.  If 
these  sacrifices  chance  to  be  eaten  by  animals, 


104 


GLLMPSES  OF  WEST  AFrdCA. 


or  removed  for  any  cause,  it  is  thought  that  tho 
spirit  has  accepted  them.  The  cvtrious  bug-a- 
bug  hills,  before  described,  seem  to  be  favor- 
ite residences  of  the  spirits ;  and  in  traveling 
through  tlie  country  it  is  very  common  to  see  a 
piece  of  cloth  or  a  tin  cup  lying  upon  them. 

Many  of  the  people  have  a  great  fear  of  these 
spirits.  Near  one  of  the  American  mission 
stations  of  this  coast  there  stands  a  large  cot- 
ton-tree, "which  the  neighboring  heathen  ima- 
gine to  be  the  abode  of  one  of  them.  Its  pecu- 
liar care  is  supposed  to  be  to  keep  watch  over 
the  mission-house  and  protect  it.  They  believe 
that  if  anything  is  stolen,  the  spirit  will  pun- 
ish the  thief.  As  a  consequence  of  this  super- 
stition, mission  property  is  safe ;  and  on  one 
occasion  some  articles  which  were  stolen  were 
returned,  so  great  was  the  fear  of  the  spirit's 
displeasure. 

While  journeying  up  the  rivers,  I  once  passed 
a  mountain  which  is  said  to  be  tho  residence  of 
a  great  war-spirit,  called  Kasilon.  Warriors 
about  to  undertake  an  expedition  against  an 
adjoining  tribe  often  make  a  pilgrimage  to  this 


JUillTS,  SUPERSTITIOJff. 


105 


mouutaia.  and  profess  to  hold  communion  with 
the  spirit,  after  which  thej  regard  themselves 
as  invincible.  It  is  supposed,  however,  that 
those  who  talk  with  Kasilon,  thougli  they  may 
gather  strength  for  a  time,  can  not  live  long. 

Our  old  interpreter  tells  me  the  following 
story  of  superstition  among  the  Kissy  people, 
who  live  towards  the  interior.  In  one  part  of 
their  country  there  is  a  small  mountain,  whei'e 
they  believe  a  spirit  dwells,  who  seems  from  the 
story  to  hold  the  "  horn  of  plenty."  No  one 
cultivates  the  mountain  land,  yet  there  is  said 
to  bo  a  never-failing  supply  of  corn,  coco, 
yams,  plantain,  oranges,  potatoes,  and  every 
kind  of  food,  including  meat.  The  spirit  rules 
over  all,  and  deals  it  out  with  a  bountiful  liand 
on  certain  conditions.  If  a  person  wishes  for" 
oranges,  for  instance,  he  may  go  to  the  moun- 
tain and  gatlier  basket  after  basket  till  ho  is  sat- 
isfied ;  but  if  he  chance  to  touch  tlie  coco  or 
yam,  the  spirit  gets  angry,  and  gives  him  a  se- 
vere flogging.  So,  if  he  wishes  yams,  he  may 
gather  any  quantity  of  them,  l)ut  must  not 
touch  anything  else.    Only  one  thing  can  be 


lOG  GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFIUCA. 

taken  at  a  time,  but  that  may  bo  had  in  abun- 
dance. On  the  bank  of  a  small  stream  which 
flows  down  the  mountain  there  is  an  immense 
rock,  which  is  worshiped  by  the  people.  Cows 
are  sometimes  killed  and  offered  in  sacrifice  to 
it.  The  old  man  who  related  this  story  to  me 
is  a  Christian,  yet  such  is  the  power  of  heathen 
habits  that  he  seemed  half  inclined  to  believe 
in  this  wonderful  spirit  of  the  mountain. 

It  is  a  common  custom  in  West  Africa  to  of- 
fer sacrifices  to  the  dead.  In  some  places,  if  a 
king  or  noted  man  dies,  a  number  of  slaves  are 
at  once  killed,  so  that,  as  they  say,  he  may  be 
supplied  with  servants  in  the  other  world.  The 
people  seem  to  have  no  idea  of  the  nature  of 
spirits,  but  think  that  they  eat  and  drink  like 
mortal  beings.  Friends  will  lay  rice  and  palm- 
oil  on  the  graves  of  the  dead,  saying,  "  They 
are  hungry,  and  we  must  feed  them  ;"  and  it 
is  difficult  to  make  them  believe  that  the  spirits 
do  not  really  eat  those  articles.  A  native  mis- 
sionary was  once  journeying  up  one  of  the  riv- 
ers of  the  coast,  and  being  kindly  treated  by  a 
man  at  one  of  the  towns  at  which  ho  stopped, 


luniTS,  suPEnsTiTioy. 


107 


he  presented  him  with  a  small  tin  cup.  The 
missionary  continued  his  journey,  and  in  re- 
turning called  at  the  same  town.  What  was 
his  siirprise  to  find  that  the  man  had  laid  the 
new  cup  on  his  father's  grave  as  a  sacrifice,  and 
was  again  using  an  old,  leaky  "  calabash  "  to 
di'ink  from.  The  missionary  remonstrated,  and 
told  him  that  he  did  not  give  him  the  cup  for 
any  such  purpose,  but  in  vaiu  ;  the  only  reply 
was,  "  My  father  needs  it  more  than  I,  and  he 
shall  have  it."  It  was  all  superstition ;  yet 
this  poor  heathen  man,  in  his  blindness  and 
degradation,  exhibited  a  filial  affection,  and  a 
devotion  to  what  he  believed  was  right,  that 
would  put  to  shame  many  a  professing  Chris- 
tian. 

Although  the  worship  of  graven  images  does 
not  prevail  to  any  great  extent  on  the  immedi- 
ate coast,  still  the  people  arc  idolaters.  Almost 
every  heathen  village  has  its  "  idol  houses," 
sometimes  called  "  country-fashion  houses  "  or 
"  devil  houses."  Sacrifices  are  offv3rcd  and  a 
certain  degree  of  worship  paid  to  them.  No 
idol,  in  the  common  acceptation  of  the  word, 


108 


GLnrrsES  of  west  Africa. 


however,  is  to  be  seen.  These  houses  arc  com- 
monly built  iu  a  circular  form,  some  two  or 
three  feet  iu  hight,  and  one  and  a  half  in  di- 
ameter, and  covered  with  a  little  pointed  roof 
of  thatch.  Underneath  this,  on  the  ground, 
are  laid  a  variety  of  small  articles,  such  as 
sticks,  shells,  pieces  of  broken  crockery,  spires 
from  bug-a-bug  hills,  and  bits  of  cloth.  I  in- 
cline to  the  belief  that  these  articles  are  not 
themselves  worshiped,  but  that  they  are  re- 
garded as  sacred  offerings  to  some  spirit  who  is 
supposed  to  liave  his  residence  in  the  idol  house. 
Be  that  as  it  may,  the  articles  seen  are  "^ory  in- 
significant. I  have  never  noticed  among  them 
any  unbroken  pieces  of  crockery,  but  invaria- 
bly worthless  remnants.  The  people  seem  to 
think  that  the  wrath  of  spirits  or  idols,  what- 
ever they  are,  is  easily  appeased.  In  walk- 
ing through  a  village,  you  will  often  see  these 
idol  houses  standing  near  the  residences  of  the 
principal  men.  Sometimes  they  are  built 
around  a  bug-a-bug  hill,  in  the  outskirts  of  the 
town. 

In  some  towns  there  are  also  heathen  altars, 


HABITS,  SUPEJtSTITION. 


109 


intended  for  the  offering  of  sacrifices.  Their 
construction  is  very  simple.  Four  sticks  of 
wood  arc  hiid  on  the  ground,  so  as  to  enclose  a 
space  of  a  few  square  feet.  Tiiis  is  slightly  ele- 
vated above  the  surrounding  earth,  and  the 
offerings  are  laid  npon  it.  I  well  remember 
preaching  in  a  heathen  town  towards  the  inte- 
rior, with  one  of  these  altars  in  full  sight,  and 
but  a  few  feet  from  where  I  stood.  Indeed,  the 
missionary  has  frequent  occasion  to  use  the  pre- 
cise language  of  Paul  in  his  sermon  on  Mars 
Hill,  which  so  plainly  describes  the  state  of  the 
heathen  here.  "  In  all  things  "  they  "  are  too 
superstitious,"  and  they  worship  they  know  not 
what. 

"  Gree-grees,"  charms,  and  "  medicines"  are 
universally  worn  by  the  people  of  "West  Africa, 
and  the  people's  faith  in  them  is  very  great. 
The  infant,  almost  as  soon  as  born,  is  loaded 
with  them,  and  the  old  man  tottering  towards 
the  grave  trusts  in  them.  They  are  made  in 
different  forms,  and  worn  for  a  variety  of  pur- 
poses. A  common  form  of  the  gree-gree  con- 
sists of  a  string  of  leather  or  palm  fiber,  from. 


110 


GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 


which  is  suspended  a  small,  flat  package,  either 
oblong  or  square,  containing  the  charm.  This 
kind  of  grce-grce  is  usually  worn  around  the 
neck.  Other  "  medicines  "  arc  worn  on  the 
arms,  the  wrists,  the  waist,  the  ankles  and  feet, 
the  cars,  and  sometimes  tied  to  a  corner  of  the 
clothing.  Tlicre  is  a  class  of  persons  known  as 
gree-gree  makers,  who  are  supposed  to  have  su- 
pernatural powers.  If  a  person  desires  a  charm, 
he  applies  to  a  gree-gree  man,  telling  him  the 
pui-pose  for  which  he  wishes  it,  and  the  article 
is  duly  manufactured.  One  kind  of  "  medicine" 
is  supposed  to  protect  the  wearer  from  the  as- 
saults of  enemies ;  another,  to  deliver  him  from 
danger  when  journeying  by  water ;  another,  to 
make  him  a  rapid  walker  if  traveling  by  land  ; 
another,  to  prevent  serpents  from  biting  him; 
others,  to  keep  off  various  diseases ;  and  still 
others  answer  a  great  variety  of  objects.  If  a 
house  is  to  be  plundered,  "  medicine  "  is  put 
upon  it  which  is  believed  to  have  the  power  of 
causing  the  inmates  to  fall  into  so  deep  a  sleep 
as  not  to  be  awakened  by  the  thieves.  If  a 
man  wishes  to  revenge  himself  upon  his  enemy, 


HABITS,  SUPEnSTITlOX. 


Ill 


he  repeats  a  form  of  words  each  day  over  a 
grec-grca  obtained  for  the  purpose,  with  the  be- 
lief that  it  will  cause  him  to  sicken  and  die. 
So  _great  is  the  power  of  superstition  that  if  a 
gree-gree  is  tied  about  a  fruit  tree,  the  people 
will  not  dare  to  toiich  the  fruit ;  or  if  "  medi- 
cine "  is  placed  in  the  farm,  the  yams,  corn  and 
potatoes  are  comparatively  safe.  Among  many 
of  the  heathen  the  gree-gree  seems  to  be  the 
universal  remedy  for  and  defense  against  the 
ills  of  life.  The  missionary,  in  combating 
these  varied  forms  of  superstition,  feels  ready 
to  exclaim,  — 

"  Who,  but  thou,  Almighty  Spirit, 
Can  the  heathen  world  reclaim  ? 
Men  may  preach,  but  till  thou  favor 
Heathens  will  be  still  the  same."' 


CHAPTER  VII. 


WITCHCRAFT  —  THE  FURROW  —  CRIES. 

E  naturally  expect  a  superstitious  peoplo 
to  be  firm  believers  iu  witchcraft.  This 
t^,9'i?'  certainly  true  of  the  natives  of  West 
Africa.  A  belief  in  witches  underlies  the 
whole  structure  of  society,  and  leads  to  many 
revolting  customs  and  deeds  of  cruelty.  Even 
those  who  have  become  christianized  can  hardly 
dispel  from  their  minds  the  lingering  relics  of 
this  superstition  ;  but  among  the  heatlicn  it  is 
seen  in  all  its  sickening  and  terrible  aspects. 
Many  human  lives  are  yearly  sacrificed  to  it, 
the  poor  victims  often  undergoing  the  most 
cruel  tortures  that  heathen  minds  can  devise, 
before  death  comes  to  their  relief. 

"Witchcraft  is  supposed  to  be  the  cause  of  al- 
most everything  bad.    If  a  person  is  caught  by 

112 


WITCIICItAFT,  THE  rUItnOW,  CRIES.  113 

a  shark  or  an  alligator,  killed  by  a  lcoi)arcl,  or 
meets  with  any  accident,  it  is  attributed  to  a 
witch,  and  efforts  are  at  once  made  to  discover 
the  guilty  party.  The  proceedings  to  effect  this 
object  doubtless  vary  in  different  places.  Among 
the  Slicrbro  people  it  is  accomplished  through 
*'  country-fashion  men,"  who  pretend  to  a  su- 
pernatural power  and  wisdom,  which  enable 
them  to  point  out  a  witch. 

The  "  country-fashion  man"  first  proceeds  to 
the  town  where  supposed  witchcraft  has  been 
practised,  informs  the  king  of  his  object,  and 
promises  certainly  to  detect  the  culprit.  The 
king  pledges  him  a  certain  amount  of  money 
in  case  he  succeeds.  A  large  fire  is  then  built 
in  the  town,  and  the  people  siimmoned  to  sit 
around  it.  The  occasion  is  made  as  imposing 
as  possible.  The  "  country-fashion  man  "  as- 
sumes an  air  of  great  wisdom,  and  goes  through 
with  a  variety  of  incantations  and  strange  cere- 
monies, so  as  to  awe  the  people.  He  holds  in 
his  hand  a  gree-gree,  in  the  shape  of  a  rod,  which 
he  flourishes  wildly  during  the  ceremony.  Sud- 
denly he  strikes  one  of  the  group  with  this  gree- 
8 


114  GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICJ. 

grcc  rod,  the  touch  of  wliicli  is  an  accusation 
of  witchcraft,  and  tlien  goes  on  with  his  wild 
performance,  till  he  is  satisfied  that  no  more 
witches  remain. 

Next  comes  the  trial,  which  is  conducted  with 
more  ceremony  than  the  accusation.  The  mode 
commonly  adopted  is  known  as  the  "  sassy-iuood 
trial.'''  The  country-fashion  man  goes  to  a  sas- 
sy-wood tree,  plunges  a  needle  and  knife  into 
the  trunk,  and  addresses  it  something  as  fol- 
lows :  "0  tree,  I  beseech  you  to  decide  truly 
whether  or  not  the  person  about  to  be  tried  is 
guilty."  He  next  cuts  off  a  quantity  of  bark, 
beats  it  to  a  fine  pulp  in  a  mortar,  and  makes  a 
sort  of  tea  from  it.  No  other  individual  is  al- 
lowed to  touch  the  bark  during  its  preparation, 
lest  he  should  take  from  it  its  supposed  power. 
A  kind  of  scaffold  is  now  built,  and  the  accused 
placed  upon  it  in  a  standing  posture.  The  peo- 
ple sit  upon  the  ground  around  the  scaffold  in 
large  numbers,  every  eye  fixed  on  the  victhn. 
The  operator  dips  up  a  calabash  of  tea,  and  ad- 
ministers it ;  then,  after  a  pause,  anotlicr,  and 
another.    If  the  accused  does  not  vomit  the  tea, 


wiTciicnAFT,  Till!:  runnow,  cjues. 


115 


ho  is  cloemcd  guilty,  and  piiuislicd  by  d^ath. 
If,  however,  lie  vomits  freely,  lie  is  taken  from 
the  scaffold  and  placed  on  country  cloths  ;  but 
if  ho  now  chances  to  throw  np  bloody  matter,  he 
is  still  regarded  as  guilty  ;  if  not,  he  is  set  at 
liberty. 

The  modes  of  inflicting  the  death-punishment 
are  various.  Sometimes,  after  waiting  a  suf- 
ficient time  for  the  sassy-wood  to  operate,  the 
people  commence  beating  the  victim  with  sticks 
and  stones,  and  continue  it  till  he  is  dead.  In 
other  cases  he  is  roasted  alive,  undergoing  the 
most  exquisite  tortures,  till  death  comes  to  his 
relief.  A  few  years  ago,  in  a  village  near  one 
of  the  stations  of  the  Mendi  Mission,  three 
women  who  had  been  found  guilty  of  witch- 
craft were  punished  by  burning.  Crotches  were 
driven  into  the  ground,  and  sticks  laid  across 
them.  The  victims  were  stretched  upon  these 
fticks  and  bound,  with  their  backs  downward. 
Slow  fires  were  kept  burning  underneath,  and 
the  women  left  to  their  fate.  Rumors  of  their 
awful  position  reached  the  mission,  and  one  of 
the  missionaries  hastened  to  their  rescue.  They 


116 


GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 


were  brought  away,  but  two  of  them  died  in  a 
few  days.  In  this  same  village  a  young  girl  was 
once  convicted  of  witchcraft,  and  sentenced  to 
die.  She  was  tied  to  a  stake  at  low  water,  so 
that  as  the  tide  rose  it  would  overwhelm  and 
drown  her.  By  some  means  she  got  loose,  and 
returned  to  the  town  ;  she  was  then  taken  to  an 
adjoining  island,  stabbed,  and  her  body  thrown 
into  the  river.  This  record  of  cruelties  prac- 
tised in  one  small  village  is  but  a  sample  of 
those  carried  on  throughout  a  vast  extent  of 
country. 

The  people,  of  course,  have  many  strange 
ideas  concerning  the  so-called  witches.  Some 
of  the  Sherhro  tribe  believe  the  following  curious 
story :  The  witch  is  said  to  have  a  large  six- 
oared  canoe,  which  ho  securely  anchors,  not  on 
the  surface  of  the  water,  hut  at  the  bottom.  He 
then  assumes  the  shape  of  an  alligator,  and 
swims  about  in  search  of  prey.  If  he  catches  a 
man,  woman,  or  child,  he  descends  to  the  canoe 
anchored  at  the  bottom  of  the  river,  and  loaves 
liis  victim  there.  He  next  spends  several  days 
ia  swimming  about  in  his  alligator  disguise, 


WITCIICUAFT,  THE  pvitnow,  cniES.  117 


passing  near  all  tlic  ncigliboriiig  towns,  and  lis- 
tening at  each  to  hear  what  the  people  say.  If 
he  hears  nothing  said  about  tlic  person  who  has 
been  caught,  he  will  return  to  the  witch-canoe 
and  devour  him ;  but  if  he  sees  that  the  people 
"make  palaver"  and  talk  of  the  sassy-wood 
trial,  he  will  bring  the  victim  back  unharmed. 
A  multitude  of  similar  stories,  as  wild  as  they 
are  inconsistent,  are  repeated  among  the  peo- 
ple, and  believed  to  a  greater  or  less  extent. 

West  Africa,  though  a  heathen  land,  has  its 
secret  societies.  One  of  the  most  powerful  of 
these  is  denominated  the  "  Furrow,"  and  exerts 
a  wonderful  influence  over  the  people.  Its 
members  consist  of  men  only,  and  each  one  is 
bound  by  a  solemn  oath  not  to  reveal  anything 
concerning  its  secret  ceremonies.  Death  would 
doubtless  be  the  penalty  for  a  violation  of  this 
oath,  which  is  so  strictly  kept  that  those  who 
are  not  members  can  never  obtain  a  full  knowl- 
edge of  the  proceedings. 

The  sessions  of  the  purrow  are  usually  held 
hi  a  large  forest,  or  "  bush,"  as  it  would  be  de- 
nominated in  Africa,  at  some  distance  from  any 


118 


GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 


town  or  village.  The  same  spot  is  kept  foi-  iliis 
purpose  from  year  to  year,  and  is  regarded  as 
sacred  by  tlio  people.  Outsiders  are  rigidly 
excluded  from  the  vicinity ;  and  if,  during  a 
session  of  the  purrow,  a  woman  chances  to  ap- 
proach the  bush,  the  penalty  is  death.  Nearly 
all  the  kings  of  the  country  belong  to  the  soci- 
ety, and  none  of  them  dare  dispute  its  edicts. 

There  is  one  chief  "  devil "  in  the  purrow, 
called  "  Tassaw,"  who  acts  as  a  sort  of  modera- 
tor. All,  even  the  kings,  fear  him,  and  doubt- 
less many  regard  him  as  a  supernatural  being. 
There  arc  also  several  minor  "  devils,"  all  of 
whom  are  men  dressed  in  hideous  costume. 
The  Tassaw  wears  an  immense  gree-grce  on 
his  head,  composed  of  human  skulls,  bones,  &c. 
His  body  is  covei*ed  with  platted  bamboo  fiber, 
and  a  net-work  of  bones  from  human  skeletons. 
His  face  is  rubbed  with  the  ashes  of  a  human 
being,  and  he  inspires  great  terror  among  the 
superstitious  people. 

There  is  a  secret  society  also  among  tlio 
women,  called  the  "  Boondoo,"  which  aiiswcrs 
much  the  same  purpose  among  them  as  the 


WITCHCRAFT,  TlJE  runuow,  cniEH.  119 


purrow  among  tlie  men.  Its  secrets,  strange 
to  say,  arc  kept  as  profoundly. 

"  Cries "  for  the  dead  are  very  common 
among  the  licatlien  of  West  Africa.  The  mis- 
sionary, as  lie  enters  a  town,  often  hears  wild 
moans  and  wailings  issuing  from  some  one  of 
the  little  mud  huts.  Friends  gather  round  the 
corpse,  and  give  vent  to  their  grief  in  loud 
lamentations.  Sometimes  they  utter  expres- 
sions of  regret  for  the  departed,  and  praise 
his  virtues.  One  moment  the  cries  rise  loud, 
harsh  and  discordant,  and  the  next  they  sink  to 
the  softest  and  most  plaintive  moans.  Occa- 
donally,  the  mourners  tear  their  hair,  cut  their 
llcsh,  and  toss  about  in  a  frightful  manner. 
The  length  of  the  cry  depends  on  various  cir- 
cumstances ;  for  a  powerful  king  it  might  last 
a  year ;  for  a  common  person,  only  a  week,  in 
both  cases  being  continued  at  intervals.  Hired 
mourners  arc  sometimes  employed  to  cry  for 
the  dead,  in  which  case  they  feign  the  deepest 
grief,  and  carry  on  their  operations  in  the  most 
extravagant  manner.  At  the  burial,  the  cries 
are  often  heart-rending. 


120 


GLIMPSES  OF  IVEST  AFRICA. 


Polygamy  is  generally  practiced  among  tliis 
people  ;  in  fact,  almost  every  heathen  man  who 
is  able  has  a  plurality  of  wives.  A  man's 
property  is  often  measured  by  the  number  of 
them  which  he  possesses.  The  women  are  pur- 
chased from  their  parents  or  friends  for  a  small 
sum,  sometimes  not  more  than  three  or  four 
dollars.  They  are  not  themselves  consulted  in 
the  matter,  but  when  bargained  for,  willing  or 
unwilling,  must  go.  Prince  Mannah,  a  noted 
Gallinas  king,  living  a  few  miles  from  the  Men- 
di  Mission,  is  said  to  have  a  thousand  wives. 
Some  of  them  he  does  not  even  know  by  siglit. 
In  a  civilized  country  the  cost  of  supporting  so 
many  would  forbid  the  custom,  if  tlierc  Avere 
no  otlacr  reasons  ;  but  here  the  tables  arc  turned, 
and  tli»  wives  support  their  husband.  They 
perform  the  drudgery,  while  their  lord  sits  at 
ease  in  his  hammock,  and  issues  his  orders. 

A  curious  custom  prevails  among  some  of  the 
West  African  tribes  in  regard  to  the  wdves  of  a 
dead  king.  During  the  days  of  mourning  they 
are  closely  watched,  and  not  suffered  to  go  out 
alone  ;  but  on  the  morning  on  which  the  cry  is 


WITCIICIiAFT,  THE  PUliUOW,  CltlES.  121 


ended,  tlicy  arc  all  taken  to  the  river  to  bathe. 
Those  who  wish  to  secure  them  as  wives  follow, 
and  at  a  point  higher  up  the  river  throv/  short 
sticks  into  the  water,  which  float  down  to  the 
women.  If  a  woman  chooses  to  accept  the  pro- 
posal of  marriage,  she  picks  up  the  stick ;  if 
not,  she  allows  it  to  float  by. 

Poisoning  is  a  common  mode  of  revenge  in 
Africa.  Tlie  people  are  very  superstitious  in 
regard  to  it,  believing  that  their  enemies  are 
possessed  of  various  subtile  poisons,  which  re- 
main for  a  long  time  iii  the  system,  but  finally 
kill.  Those  who  prepare  food  for  the  kings 
and  chiefs  are  required  to  taste  of  every  dish, 
as  a  sort  of  pledge  that  no  poison  has  been 
mixed  with  it.  But  notwithstanding  all  pre- 
cautions, many  lives  are  doubtless  taken  every 
year  by  these  means. 

The  Mohammedan  religion  prevails  to  some 
extent  iu  West  Africa,  and  portions  of  the  Ko- 
ran are  in  circulation.  The  Mohammedans  are 
generally  possessed  of  superior  minds,  but  prac- 
tice ^reat  impositions  on  the  heathen.  Some 
can  read  and  write  Arabic  with  much  facility, 


122 


CLmrSES  OF  )fEST  AFniCA. 


and  a  few  schools  are  established  in  the  larger 
towns.  They  arc  much  more  difficult  to  rcacli 
with  the  gospel  than  the  purely  heathen.  The 
common  people  purchase  from  them  grcc-grees 
and  charms,  and  sometimes  regard  them  with  a 
sort  of  reverence  because  they  are  "book"  or 
"  murray  men." 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


GOVERNMENT  —  PALAVERS  —  WAR — SLAVERY. 

HE  centuries  of  darkness  that  have  rolled 
over  Africa  have  left  upon  it  indelible 
?^  marks.  Its  skies  are  as  smilino;  as  ever, 
"°  its  breezes  as  odorous,  its  flowers  as  gor- 
geous, its  fruits  as  luscioiis,  and  its  vegetation 
as  luxuriant;  but  the  blight  and  mildew  of 
those  dark  ages  rest  heavily  over  the  people. 
Like  all  heathen  nations,  they  are  blinded  and 
ignorant,  warped  by  superstition,  and  swayed  by 
fear  and  passion.  They  exhibit  much  natural 
talent,  which  if  developed  and  guided  might 
make  them  a  great  power  in  the  world.  Even 
in  their  degraded  state,  there  are  many  in- 
stances of  native  nobleness  and  commanding 
strength  of  mind  that  can  not  but  inspire  re- 
spect from  all. 

123 


121 


GI.niPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 


Those  traits  of  character  are  all  seen  in  the 
government  of  the  country.  Some  kings  and 
chiefs  rule  with  a  dignified  bearing  and  firm 
hand,  really  striving  to  do  good  to  their  sub- 
jects ;  but,  inwoven  with  the  good,  there  is 
much  of  superstition  and  cruelty.  The  large 
number  of  petty  tribes  on  the  West  African 
coast  renders  any  general  form  of  government 
impossible,  though  there  is  considerable  simi- 
larity in  the  regulations  enforced.  The  pur- 
row  is  the  source  of  many  general  laws,  which 
the  kings  are  bound  to  respect ;  otherwise  war 
is  made  upon  them.  With  this  exception,  each 
king  is  independent,  and  can  manage  his  own 
towns  and  villages  as  he  chooses.  The  people 
usually  show  much  respect  to  their  kings,  and 
obey  them  with  alacrity. 

If  any  disagreement  is  to  be  settled,  a  "  pa- 
laver" is  called.  These  palavers  are  usually 
held  in  tlie  barre,  or  court-house,  of  the  town, 
and  the  king  of  the  place  presides  at  them. 
Quite  a  number  of  people  often  assemble  to  lis- 
ten. The  parties  bring  forward  their  witnesses 
and  present  their  pleas,  and  the  king  with  liis 


COVEnmiENT,  PALAVERS,  WAR,  SLAVERY.  125 


counselors  sits  in  state,  hearing  the  case,  and 
finally  dcGidcs  as  is  deemed  just.  The  palavers 
arc  conducted  Avith  much  dignity  and  ceremony. 
Some  of  the  speeches  are  really  eloquent,  at 
least  so  far  as  the  outside  appearance  goes.  I 
have  sat  in  a  palaver-house  in  African  wilds, 
listening  to  the  speakers  as  they  pou.red  forth  a 
torrent  of  words  in  their  native  tongue,  till  my 
heart  has  been  fairly  thrilled.  I  knew  not  what 
they  were  saying,  but  the  commanding  figure, 
the  erect  and  manly  bearing,  the  graceful, 
speaking  gestures,  the  face  lit  up  with  the  in- 
spiration of  the  moment,  and  the  softly-modu- 
lated voice,  made  an  impression  scarcely  inferior 
to  that  of  the  popular  orators  of  civilized  lands. 
The  decisions  of  the  palaver  are  not  always 
what  they  should-  be,  for  heathen  superstitions 
and  cruelties  are  mixed  up  with  every  form  of 
justice.  Often  the  palavers  are  brouglit  to  the 
missionary  for  decision,  and  much  of  his  pre- 
cious time  and  strength  is  taken  up  in  listening, 
through  an  interpreter,  to  the  various  state- 
ments. In  such  cases,  his  verdict  is  cheerfully 
accepted  by  both  parties  as  finaL 


126 


GLIMVSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 


Unadjusted  palavers  between  different  tribes 
often  load  to  those  petty  wars  which  are  always 
prevailing  to  a  greater  or  less  extent  on  this 
joast.  The  cause  of  war  is  commonly  some 
trifling  matter,  scarcely  worth  noticing  at  all, 
which  is  dwelt  upon  and  magnified,  till  the 
king  and  people  are  roused  to  the  requisite 
pitch  for  an  attack.  Indeed,  many  kings  seem 
to  delight  in  war,  for  the  sake  of  the  spoils  and 
prisoners  which  they  hope  to  capture. 

The  forces  employed  are  usually  quite  small, 
perhaps  two  or  thi-ee  hundred  on  a  side.  They 
are  armed  with  old-fashioned  miiskets,  swords 
of  native  manufacture,  and  some  other  weapons. 
Some  towns  are  defended  with  small  cannon, 
obtained  from  traders.  Tlie  attacking  party 
approach  a  town  witli  a  stealthy,  cat-like  tread, 
skulking  among  bushes  and  hiding  behind  trees, 
so  as  to  surprise  the  people  if  possible.  Strate- 
getic  movements  are  much  more  popular  with 
African  soldiers  than  a  hand-to-hand  conflict ; 
but  wlien  necessary  they  fight  with  a  desperate 
bravery.  The  swift  movements  and  sudden  at- 
tacks of  African  war-parties  are  svirprising.  At 


coveh^'mlxt,  palavers,  wah,  slaveuy.  127 


sunset  a  villago  reposes  in  quiet  beauty  amid 
its  groves  of  graceful  palms  and  bending  cocoas. 
The  log  canoe  of  the  rude  fisherman  glides 
peacefully  homeward  over  the  river.  The  peo- 
j)le  gather  in  barre  and  kitchen  for  their  eve- 
ning chat.  Not  the  faintest  signs  of  an  ap- 
proaching enemy  are  discernible  on  land  or 
water.  Darkness  comes  on,  and  suddenly  at 
the  midnight  hour  the  fierce  war-cry  of  a  foe 
is  heard.  The  thatched  huts  are  ablaze.  The 
terrified  inhabitants,  not  prepared  to  resist,  fly 
for  their  lives.  Many  are  taken  prisoners, 
plunder  is  secured,  and  then  the  enemy  departs 
as  suddenly  as  he  came.  The  morning  sun 
shines  on  blackened  ruins  and  deserted  homes, 
where  but  yesterday  the  simple  round  of  hea- 
then life  went  on  in  fancied  security. 

One  object  of  these  wars  is  to  obtain  slaves  ; 
nearly  all  the  prisoners  captured  being  re- 
garded as  such.  But  slavery  in  "West  Africa  is 
very  different  from  the  bondage  practiced  by 
some  civilized  nations.  The  master  and  slave 
are  of  the  same  color,  though  usually  of  differ- 
ent tribes.    They  are  both  ignorant  and  super- 


128 


GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFFdCA. 


stitioiis,  and  arc  regarded  as  more  nearly  equals 
in  their  privileges  than  ths  masters  and  slaves 
of  America.  One  might  pass  through  towns 
where  there  are  hundreds  of  slaves,  and  yet 
never  suspect  that  the  institution  existed  there 
at  all.  The  usual  title  of  the  slaveholder  is 
"  father,"  and  his  treatment  of  his  slaves  gene- 
rally warrants  this  name.  Slaves  are  allowed 
to  acquire  property  of  their  own,  and  if  they  are 
diligent  and  faithful  they  may  become  the  rich- 
est men  in  the  country.  They  often  own  slaves 
themselves,  who  are  sent  out  to  work  for  the 
masters  in  their  stead.  Many  sad  wrongs,  how- 
ever, spring  out  of  the  institution  in  this  modi- 
fied state,  and  as  civilization  and  Christianity 
advance  it  gradually  fades  away. 

Many  of  the  slaves  of  this  country  are  stolen 
from  their  parents  while  young.  A  mother,  for 
instance,  sends  her  child  to  a  spring  for  water, 
and  he  never  returns.  The  woods  may  echo  to 
her  anguished  cries,  but  he  comes  not.  Kid- 
nappers were  lurking  in  the  bush,  and  sud- 
denly they  pounced  upon  their  prey,  and  bore 
him  off.    Others  are  stolen  while  going  on  some 


GOVERyMENT,  PALAVEIIS,  If.lll,  SLAVERY.  129 

errand,  or  playing  about  the  village.  Men  arc 
oftsu  prowling  about  in  the  dense  bush  which 
surrounds  the  native  towns,  watching  for  their 
victims.  Father  Johnson,  the  old  interpreter 
of  the  Meudi  Mission,  was  stolen  from  his  na- 
tive country,  far  interior,  by  these  kidnappers. 
Ho  was  then  some  eight  years  of  age,  and  had 
been  sent  by  his  mother  to  a  town  at  some  dis- 
tance to  visit  his  older  brother.  While  passing 
the  bush,  three  men  suddenly  pounced  upon 
him,  and  bore  him  off.  Tliey  traveled  by  night, 
and  hid  in  the  bush  during  the  day,  until  at 
length  they  reached  the  Gallinas  country,  and 
the  victim  was  sold  as  a  slave.  Father  John- 
son has  never  seen  his  parents  or  relatives  since. 
Often  the  child  is  so  young  when  stolen  that 
ho  has  no  remembrance  of  his  country  or  peo- 
ple. The  method  of  obtaining  slaves,  and  the 
mode  of  treating  them,  vary  somewhat  among 
different  tribes.  On  the  east  of  Calabar,  hun- 
dreds of  miles  below  Sierra  Leone,  lies  the  coun- 
try of  the  Fellatalis,  one  of  the  southern  prov- 
inces of  Luccatoo.  The  inhabitants  are  de- 
scribed as  fierce  men,  who  ride  on  horseback. 


130  GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 

Tliey  are  Moliammcdans,  and  by  their  con- 
quests reduce  many  to  slavery,  and  sell  them  to 
other  tribes.  In  some  places  there  are  laws, 
the  breaking  of  which  is  punished  by  slavery. 
Sometimes,  if  a  person  is  accused  of  witchcraft, 
and  successfully  passes  the  sassy-wood  ordeal, 
his  accuser  is  sold  as  a  slave.  Among  some 
tribes,  if  a  man  owes  more  than  ho  is  able  to 
pay,  he  is  sold  to  make  up  the  balance.  A 
missionary  at  Calabar  relates  the  following 
story  of  a  device  that  is  practiced  for  obtaining 
slaves :  — 

"  The  Ibo  tribe  believe  in  a  being  whom  they 
call  Tslmku,  and  whose  shrine  is  at  Aro,  a  town 
lying  west  of  this,  in  the  Delta.  People  go  thith- 
er from  surrounding  tribes  to  consult  this  ora- 
cle, and  it  is  held  in  high  repute.  The  pilgrim 
carries  his  present  with  him.  The  place  where 
the  priests  meet  him  is  said  to  be  outside  of  the 
town  of  Aro,  where  thei-e  is  a  house  built  over 
a  small  stream.  If  the  })reseut  is  deemed  satis- 
factory, the  pilgrim  is  sent  back  with  his  answer. 
But  many  never  return  from  that  house.  It  is 
believed  that  Tshuku  has  devoured  them.  In 


GOVEHMIEXT,  PALAVERS,  WAIt,  SLAVERY.  131 


order  to  give  color  to  this  deception,  a  red  dye, 
or  perhaps  at  times  real  human  blood,  is  spilled 
in  the  stream,  and  is  seen  by  those  outside." 

The  foroi"-!!  slave-trade  is  still  carried  on  to 
some  extent  from  West  Africa,  though  the 
number  of  slaves  exported  has  greatly  dimin- 
ished during  the  past  few  years.  The  Sherbro 
country,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Mendi  Mission, 
was  formerly  a  great  resort  of  slave-ships,  and 
many  are  the  dark  tales  of  blood  and  crime  re- 
lated concerning  them.  The  numerous  rivers 
and  mangrove  islands  afforded  them  great  op- 
portunities to  carry  on  the  wicked  traffic  with 
compai'ativc  safety.  It  is  impossible  to  conceive 
the  fearful  deeds  of  cruelty  and  the  sickening 
horrors  that  attended  it.  If  the  secret  history 
of  the  foreign  slave-trade  from  West  Africa 
could  be  written,  it  would  fill  volumes  with  the 
most  thrilling  pictures  of  human  agony  and 
woe,  exceeding  in  strangeness  and  mystery  the 
wildest  dreams  that  ever  entered  the  head  of  a 
novelist.  God  be  praised  that  those  dark  days 
of  terror  are  so  fast  passing  away. 


CHAPTER  IX. 


THE  WORK  OP  MISSIONS. 

VER  since  our  Saviour's  last  command, 
"Go  yo  into  all  the  world  and  preach  the 
gospel  to  every  creature,"  his  church  has 
been  engaged,  to  a  greater  or  less  extent, 
in  the  work  of  missions.  The  story  of  salvation 
through  Christ,  which  was  then  known  only  in 
the  region  immediately  surrounding  Jerusalem, 
has  been  spread  far  and  wide.  Heathen  Europe 
heard  the  sound  and  awoke  to  life.  It  crossed 
the  Atlantic  with  the  Pilgrims,  and  Christian 
America  to-day  testifies  to  its  wondrous  power. 
Great  things  have  been  accomplished,  too,  in 
these  later  times  by  the  spread  of  the  gospel 
through  the  instrumentality  of  missions.  Mis- 
sionaries have  been  sent  forth  into  many  of  the 
dark  places  of  the  earth.  With  a  silent,  patient 
heroism,  daunted  not  by  the  prospect  of  danger, 

132 


THE  WOTIK  OF  MISSIOA'S. 


133 


or  even  of  death,  they  have  sundered  the  ties 
that  bound  them  to  friends  and  native  land,  and 
buried  themselves  in  foreign  wilds,  surrounded 
only  by  untamed  men.  They  have  trod  the 
burning  sands  of  Africa,  and  journeyed  ovar 
its  sluggish,  death-breeding  rivers.  They  have 
penetrated  its  jungles  and  visited  its  kraals. 
They  have  braved  the  fierce  cold  and  eternal 
snows  of  Greenland.  They  have  visited  the 
crowded  cities  and  villages  of  India.  They 
have  combated  the  false  beliefs  of  many  an 
Asiatic  nation.  They  have  gone  to  ,the  most 
lonely  islands  of  the  ocean.  And  everywhere 
they  have  told  the  same  sweet  story  of  redeem- 
ing love,  and  besought  the  heathen  to  accept  of 
Christ.  And  not  only  have  men  done  this,  but 
gentle  woman,  tenderly  nurtured,  and  surround- 
ed by  the  luxuries  of  a  civilized  land,  has  joy- 
fully forsaken  all,  and  borne  a  noble  part  in  the 
blessed  work. 

The  results  of  the  missionary  work  are  al- 
ready grand  and  glorious.  Tlie  wilderness  and 
the  desert  are  budding  and  blossoming.  Many 
ialos  of  the  sea  have  become  christianized,  and 


134  GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFniCA. 

dark  corners  of  tlie  eartli  lit  up  with  the  rays 
of  the  Sun  of  Righteousness.  Souls  are  rejoic- 
ing in  glory  to-day  who  have  been  saved  through 
this  instrumentality.  No  tongue  can  fully  ut- 
ter, and  no  pen  fully  describe,  the  wonderful 
results  which,  through  God's  blessing,  have  fol- 
lowed the  labors  of  his  servants  in  foreign  lands. 
Even  in  West  Africa,  though  the  deadly  climate 
necessitates  a  frequent  change  of  laborers,  much 
progress  has  been  made.  There  is  a  line  of 
missions  extending  for  thousands  of  miles  along 
the  coast,  while  here  and  there  stations  have 
been  planted  in  the  interior.  From  these  the 
gospel  light  is  constantly  radiating  ;  and  wher- 
ever it  is  shed,  the  superstitions  and  ceremonies 
of  heathenism  are  fast  passing  away.  Already 
there  are  many  thousands  of  native  converts, 
and  from  among  them  some  educated  pastors 
and  teachers  are  employed  in  the  regular  mis- 
sion work. 

From  day  to  day  the  progress  is  scarcely  dis- 
cernible, but  glancing  back  over  a  series  of 
years,  it  becomes  very  apparent.  The  work 
does  go  forward,  thougli  to  mortal  eyes  the  ad- 


THE  WOUK  OF  MISSIONS. 


13y 


vauce  may  seem  very  slow.  Missionary  life  iii 
West  Africa  is  not  without  its  shady  side.  Op- 
pressed with  the  languor  peculiar  to  a  tropical 
climate,  enfeebled  by  the  ever-recurring  fever, 
with  his  nervous  system  unstrung,  and  a  crowd 
of  duties  constantly  calling  for  attention,  the 
missionary's  heart  sometimes  sinks  within  him. 
As  he  loolcs  over  the  field,  where  for  months 
and  years  he  has  toiled,  and  sees  so  little  fruit, 
he  is  ready  to  exclaim,  "  "What  good  have  I 
accomplished  by  all  these  labors  ?  "  That  de- 
lightful vail  of  romance,  which,  perchance,  sur- 
rounded the  foreign  missionary  work  when  he 
looked  at  it  from  his  old  New  England  home, 
has  long  ago  departed.  It  is  a  stern,  matter-of- 
fact  reality  now,  yet  the  work  itself  is  far  more 
dear  than  ever.  Those  fancy  pictures,  which 
the  good  folks  at  home  so  delight  to  draw,  of  a 
missionary  sitting  all  day  under  a  branching 
tree,  with  a  group  of  eager,  earnest  learners 
about  him,  are  not  always  realized.  He  must 
sometimes  gather  the  naked,  filthy  children,  and 
wash  and  clothe  them.  He  must  seek  out  the 
people  in  their  dark,  damp  huts,  and  converse 


136  GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 

with  them  there.  He  must  gaze  ou  dis-gaisting 
objects  every  day,  and  feel  his  soul  pained  by 
heathen  habits.  He  must  repeat  over  and  over 
the  simplest  truths  of  the  gospel,  and  then  some- 
times fail  of  making  them  plain  to  the  darkened 
mind.  But  the  joys  of  the  work  far  outbalance 
the  petty  trials  and  discouragements.  The  mis- 
sionary realizes  that 

"  The  lonely  heart  that  leans  on  God 
Is  happy  anywhere  ; " 

and,  though  conscious  of  his  own  weakness,  he 
is  strong  in  the  Lord.  He  knows  that  he  is 
entirely  dependent  on  the  Holy  Spirit ;  but  he 
knows,  too,  that  that  Spirit  has  been  promised 
him.  Turning  over  the  pages  of  my  missionary 
journal,  I  find  many  a  record  speaking  of  these 
things :  — 

Dec.  5.  —  God  fulfills  to  us  his  precious  prom- 
ise, that  whosoever  forsaketh  houses  or  lauds, 
or  father  or  mother,  for  Jesus'  sake,  shall  re- 
ceive a  hundred  fold  more  in  this  life.  "  Lo,  I 
am  Avith  you  always !  "  has  been  blissfully  veri- 
fied in  our  experience.  Trials,  to  be  sure,  have 
pressed  upon  us,  and  we  have  been  ofttimes  in 


THE  ]rORK  OF  Missioys. 


137 


great  perplexity,  scarcely  knowing  whicli  way 
to  turn  ;  yet  over  and  through  all  has  gleamed 
the  sunshine  of  God's  face  and  the  smile  of  his 
love.  We  expect  these  trials,  for  Jesus  said 
that  the  "  hundred  fold  "  would  be  accompanied 
"  with  persecutions  "  here,  but  sweet,  very  sweet, 
are  the  anticipations  of  "  everlasting  life  "  be- 
yond. 

Doubtless,  many  who  seem  to  listen  gladly 
soon  forget  our  words ;  bu.t  we  trust  that  God 
opens  the  hearts  of  some  to  receive  permanent 
good.  It  is  ours  to  sow  the  seed  wherever  we 
can,  God's  to  give  the  increase ;  and  we  have 
no  right  to  believe  that  any  labor  for  Jesus  will 
be  utterly  in  vain.  The  harvest  may  be  long 
delayed,  and  the  reapers  few  and  unworthy  ;  but 
never  was  there  a  word  spoken  nor  suffering 
patiently  endured  for  Christ's  sake  in  vain. 
Often  in  our  work,  as  we  long  and  pray  for  the 
delaying  harvest,  we  feel  ready  to  exclaim, — 

"  Full  well  I  know  I  have  more  tai-es  than  wheat, — 

Brambles  and  flowers,  dry  sticks,  and  withered  leaves  ; 

■\Vhercfore  I  blush  and  weep,  and  at  thy  feet 

I  kneel  down  reverently  and  repeat, 
"  Master,  behold  my  sheaves. 


13S  GLIMPSES  or  WEST  AFUICA. 

I  know  these  blossoms,  clustering  heavily. 
With  evening  dew  upon  their  folded  leaves. 

Can  claim  no  value  or  utility  ; 
Yet  well  I  know  thy  patient  love  perceives 

Not  what  I  did,  but  what  I  strove  to  do. 

And,  though  the  full,  ripe  ears  be  sadly  few, 
Thou  wilt  accept  my  sheaves." 

Many  faithful  missionaries  have  been  called 
to  seal  their  testimony  for  Jesus  with  their  lives 
on  heathen  ground.  Their  burial-places  are 
consecrated  spots,  rendered  for  ever  sacred  by 
the  dust  of  fallen  laborers.  The  West  African 
coast  is  lined  with  these  sad  memorials.  Some 
had  but  just  been  permitted  to  lift  the  banner 
of  the  cross  ere  they  fell  in  death.  But  not 
one  has  fallen  in  vain.  Silent  voices  come 
forth  from  their  grass-grown  graves,  speaking 
of  a  high  and  lofty  faith,  a  noble  zeal,  a  wil- 
lingness to  die  if  need  be,  only  that  they  might 
have  the  sweet  privilege  of  pointing  heathen  to 
the  cross  of  Christ.  Parents,  and  brothers, 
and  sisters,  may  have  wept  bitterly  over  the 
loved  ones  early  called,  and  almost  felt  that  the 
sacrifice  for  Africa's  redemption  was  too  great ; 
but  our  dear  heavenly  Father  saw  it  all,  and 
will  overrule  it  to  the  glory  of  his  kingdom. 


CHAPTER  X. 


WAYSIDE  TEACHINGS. 

-UCH  of  the  labor  of  missionaries  may 
Cl^iL  well  be  denominated  u-ariside  feachinq. 
c^^a)  Wherever  a  group  of  listeners  can  be 
found  or  gathered,  there  an  opportunity 
is  offered  of  doing  good,  and  the  faithful  mis- 
sionary will  be  ready  to  embrace  it.  I  extract 
the  following  notes  from  my  journal :  — 

Dec.  21.  —  God  commands  us  to  ijo  to  every 
creature  with  the  offer  of  salvation,  and  if  we 
can  not  find  them  elscwliere  we  must  visit  them 
at  their  homes.  Let  me  picture  one  of  these 
visits. — It  is  towards  evening,  and  putting  my 
small  Testament  in  my  pocket,  I  start  on  my 
walk.  Passing  through  our  pleasant  yard  and 
out  at  the  gateway,  I  find  myself  in  one  of  the 
main  roads  of  tlie  region.    Americans  would 

139 


140 


GLIMPSES  OF  JVEST  AFniCA. 


call  it  a  more  foot-path,  but  in  this  wagonless 
country  it  is  all  the  road  we  have.  On  one  side 
is  the  Slierbro  river,  some  five  miles  in  width, 
and  dotted  with  numerous  mangrove  islands, 
and  on  the  other  the  lime-hedge  that  bounds 
our  mission  grounds.  People  are  constantly 
coming  and  going  along  the  path.  Here  is  a 
tall  Mohammedan,  wearing  a  flowing  white 
cloth  reaching  from  his  shoulders  to  the  ground, 
and  adorned  with  rings  of  ivory  and  gold  about 
his  wrists  and  arms.  He  wears  a  country  gree- 
gree  rovmd  his  neck,  which  is  supposed  to  keep 
off  evil  spirits.  He  is  followed  by  some  women, 
with  their  faces  curiously  marked  with  white 
chalk.  Yonder,  on  the  river-bank,  is  a  group 
of  naked  boys  and  girls.  Others,  quecrly 
dressed,  are  passing  by.  "Walking  a  little  dis- 
tance along  this  path,  I  turn  up  a  shady  lane, 
and  soon  reach  the  native  village  of  Gondamar, 
Tlic  houses  are  small,  with  mud  walls  and 
thatched  roofs,  and  are  scattered  promiscuously 
about.  Near  one  of  the  houses  a  small  girl  is 
beating  rice  in  a  mortar,  and  several  women 
stand  around  her.    I  pass  up  to  them,  and 


WAYSIDE  TEACHmCS. 


141 


speak  ill  English.  They  all  laugh  aloud,  and 
shake  their  heads.  They  are  Sherbro  people, 
and  can  understand  nothing  that  I  say.  Soon 
another  woman  comes  up,  and  says  a  few  words 
in  broken  English.  I  talk  with  her  a  while 
about  Jesus,  invite  her  to  come  to  the  chapel  on 
Sunday,  and  then  pass  on. 

I  next  stop  at  the  door  of  a  country  house.  It 
looks  dark  inside.  There  is  no  floor  but  the 
bare  earth,  and  only  two  rooms.  A  fire  is 
burning  in  the  middle  of  one  room,  and  over  it 
a  pot  of  rice  is  suspended.  A  man  comes  for- 
ward and  meets  me.  He  talks  English  quite 
fluently,  and  I  can  speak  to  him  with  much 
more  ease  about  his  soul.  As  I  leave,  he  thanks 
me  for  what  I  have  said.  Next  I  visit  the  chief 
of  the  town.  He  brings  a  low  stool,  and  places 
it  outside  the  door  for  me  to  sit  upon ;  and  as  I 
converse  with  him  about  the  Bible,  and  read 
from  it  some  passages,  a  group  gathers  round 
us.  Leaving  the  chief's  house,  I  stop  at  other 
huts,  or  say  a  few  words  to  those  whom  I  meet. 
Near  the  farther  end  of  the  village,  I  find  an 
old  woman  who  lived  in  Sierra  Leone,  and  at- 


142 


GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 


tended  chapel  there  years  ago.  She  "welcomes 
me  gladly,  and  I  read  a  chapter  from  the  Tes- 
tament as  I  sit  hy  her  mud  house.  A  half-dozen 
others  crouch  on  the  ground  around  me,  gazing 
earnestly  into  my  face.  So  I  pass  from  house 
to  house,  trying  to  point  souls  to  Jesus,  until 
the  evening  shadows  begin  to  fall,  when  I  turn 
homewards. 

Pec.  23. — Monday  evening  I  took  another 
"wayside  walk"  to  a  heathen  village.  James, 
one  of  our  mission  boys,  went  with  me  to  inter- 
pret. "We  found  two  or  three  men  standing 
near  one  of  the  houses,  and  I  commenced 
talking  with  them  about  God.  Soon,  nearly  a 
dozen,  attracted  by  our  conversation,  gathered 
around  to  hear.  Some  of  them  were  Moham- 
medans, or  "  murray-men,"  as  they  are  called, 
from  the  interior,  and  could  read  Arabic.  After 
conversing  with  these  for  a  while,  we  called  at 
the  doors  of  several  houses,  and  tarried  for  a 
few  moments  to  speak  of  Jesus :  and  so,  walk- 
ing from  place  to  place,  and  carrying  the  good 
tidings,  we  reached  some  whom  we  could  not 
otherwise  have  gained  access  to.    In  one  part 


WAYSIDE  TEACHINGS. 


143 


of  the  village  wo  found  some  country  people, 
who  said  thoy  had  never  h.eard  a  missionary 
talk  about  God ;  and  calling  James  to  interpret, 
I  spent  ton  minutes,  as  long  a  time  as  they 
would  attentively  listen  at  once,  in  repeating 
the  story  of  the  cross.  They  gave  good  atten- 
tion to  the  word  spoken.  As  the  twilight  shad- 
ows gathered,  we  returned  to  the  mission- 
house. 

June  17.  —  Shall  I  give  you  a  little  sketch  of 
mission  life  to-day  ?  It  may  afford  a  glimpse 
of  one  of  the  many  features  of  our  work. 

It  is  a  clear,  hot  morning,  and  the  tropical 
sun  is  already  high  in  the  heavens.  As  usual, 
I  am  to  spend  two  or  three  hours  with  a  group 
of  learners  in  the  barre  at  Bonthe,  a  native 
town  three-fourths  of  a  mile  distant.  The  path 
by  land  is  so  wet  and  miry  that  I  am  obliged  to 
go  on  the  water.  Passing  down  to  our  little 
wharf,  I  step  into  my  log  canoe.  I  sit  on  a 
stool  near  the  prow,  and  a  man  at  the  stern 
paddles.  The  canoe  is  some  twelve  feet  long, 
and  one  and  a  half  wide,  hollowed  out  of  a  sin- 
gle log.    As  we  glide  along,  it  sways  this  way 


]4  J:  GLr.UPSSS  OF  WEST  AFHICA. 

and  that,  the  upper  edge  often  nearly  even  with 
the  water.  A  frightened  person  would  be  sure 
to  upset  it,  and  as  the  river  is  full  of  sharks  and 
alligators,  that  might  prove  no  light  matter. 
On  one  side  is  the  island  shore,  with  its  small 
brown  huts  and  a  few  palms  rising  against  the 
sunlit  sky ;  on  the  other  is  the  broad  Sherbro 
river,  with  canoes  of  all  sizes  and  shapes,  filled 
with  dusky,  half-naked  people,  gliding  in  every 
direction.  Naked  children  play  along  the  beach, 
and  men  and  women,  with  a  strip  of  cloth  wound 
arouiul  their  waists,  walk  to  and  fro,  or  lounge 
in  tlie  sun.  The  faces  and  bodies  of  many  of 
the  women  are  grotesquely  marked  with  white 
chalk.  Twenty  minutes'  paddling  brings  me  to 
Bonthe.  A  short  walk  over  a  strip  of  burning 
sand  and  along  the  winding  paths  of  the  town, 
and  I  find  myself  in  the  chief's  yard,  bounded  on 
three  sides  by  the  barre,  kitchen,  and  house,  and 
on  the  fourth  by  a  rude  fence.  Tiie  children 
crowd  round  me  as  I  enter,  and  three  or  four 
little  hands  are  placed  in  mine  at  once,  with  a 
broken  "  Mornin',  sir !  "  from  a  score  of  voices. 
At  first  they  were  frightened  at  the  sight  of  a 


JFA  YSWE  TEACUmCS. 


145 


wliito  mail,  but  now  they  are  very  familiar. 
Many  understood  no  Euglisli  when  they  came, 
but  they  soon  learn  to  talk.  It  requires  conside- 
rable planning  to  gather  the  children,  and  some- 
times a  little  force.  I  see  a  boy,  for  instance, 
playing  about  the  town,  and  send  a  couple  of 
the  older  children  to  invite  him  to  the  barre. 
He  is  frightened  at  the  bare  idea,  and  runs  off 
screaming.  They  pursue,  and  after  a  short 
chase  come  back  panting  with  the  boy  in  their 
arms.  He  screams  and  kicks  furiously,  but 
one  holds  him  while  the  other  puts  on  a  shirt, 
and  they  bear  him  in  triumph  to  the  barre.  I 
lay  my  hand  on  his  head  and  speak  gently,  and 
he  is  soothed ;  and  in  a  few  days,  perhaps,  he 
becomes  a  quiet,  constant  learner. 

The  barre  has  a  thatched  roof,  mud  floor, 
and  mud  walls  on  three  sides,  the  fourth 
being  open.  Eude  seats  are  ranged  around 
the  walls,  on  which  the  learners  sit,  and  a  table 
and  chair  are  provided  for  me.  At  a  stroke  of 
the  bell  I  read  a  few  verses  from  the  Bible,  and 
we  kneel  in  prayer.  Then  follows  the  patience- 
trying  work  of  teaching  the  elements  of  read- 

lO 


1  IG  CLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 

ing  and  spelling  to  a  groxip  of  heathen.  Print- 
ed tablets  hang  on  the  walls,  and  as  the  class 
gather  around  them,  eager  and  attentive,  the 
scene  is  interesting.  Some  have  already  learned 
to  read  short  sentences,  and  repeat  easy  verses 
from  the  Scriptures.  As  I  tell  them  about  God, 
their  eyes  open  with  wonder.  A  few  can  not 
yet  understand  my  English  words.  When  the 
little  ones,  so  lately  in  heathenism,  recite  such 
lines  as,  "  Suffer  little  children  to  come  unto 
me,"  "  Now  I  lay  me  down  to  sleep,"  &c.,  my 
heart  overflows  with  thanksgiving.  There  are 
often  several  grown  men  who  come  to  be  taught, 
so  that  the  classes  as  they  stand  before  the  tab- 
lets vary  from  the  full-sized  man  to  the  toddling 
child. 

The  group  in  the  barre  is  a  never-ceasing  ob- 
ject of  curiosity  to  those  without.  A  mucli 
frequented  path  leads  past  the  building,  and  the 
passers-by  often  stop  and  watch  us  eagerly,  chat 
in  their  native  tongue,  and  laugh.  Some  conio 
within  the  yard,  and,  hiding  themselves  behind 
a  mud  wall,  peer  round  the  corner  with  gaping 
mouth  and  wide-open  eyes.    The  kitchen  oppo- 


ir.l  VSIDE  TEACUINGS. 


147 


site  is  full  of  loungers.  A  heathen  woman 
brings  a  tub  of  water,  sets  it  down  in  front  of 
the  barrc,  and  proceeds  to  wash  her  children, 
the  little  sufibrei's  meanwhile  screaming  at  the 
top  of  their  voices.  Having  done  this,  she 
stripes  their  shinuig  black  faces  and  bodies 
with  white  chalk,  adorns  them  with  rings,  gree- 
grees,  and  little  tinkling  bells,  and  sends  them 
off  to  play.  Another  woman  brings  her  crying 
children,  and  seats  herself  on  the  edge  of  the 
barre.  A  tall  Mohammedan  from  the  interior, 
adorned  with  unnumbered  rings,  "  medicines," 
and  charms,  pauses  and  sits  down.  Three  or 
four  others  join  the  group,  and  all  watch  us  as 
though  it  were  a  show. 

But  listen  to  that  noise.  A  "  boondoo  "  pro- 
cession is  passing.  It  consists  of  a  dozen  women, 
who  keep  up  a  constant  song  or  chant.  Some- 
times they  walk  along,  singing,  clapping  their 
hands,  and  shaking  a  gourd  covered  with  loose 
beads ;  sometimes  they  go  on  a  sort  of  half-run, 
giving  now  and  then  a  deafening  shout.  They 
are  dressed  in  cloths  wound  round  their  bodies, 
and  adorned  with  heathen  ornaments. 


118 


GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 


Amid  such  scenes  the  hours  pass,  and  at  the 
close  we  kneel  and  repeat  together  the  Lord's 
Prayer,  which  many  have  learned.  The  children 
crowd  round  mc  with  smiling  faces,  and  a  dozen 
hands  are  held  out  at  once,  while  "  Good-by, 
sir !  "  echoes  from  every  side.  A  few  follow  me 
to  the  wharf,  and  watch  me  as  I  glide  homeward 
iii  my  light  canoe. 


CHAPTER  XL 


SABBATH  LABORS. 


I  EC.  21.  —  Yesterday,  after  the  morning 
service  in  the  chapel,  I  went  to  a  little  vil- 
lage  a  half-mile  distant  to  preach.  Horace 
accompanied  me.  We  walked  along  a  nar- 
row path  tlirougli  a  mangrove  swamp,  Avhich  is 
overflowed  at  high  tide.  The  water  was  low  as 
we  passed,  and  by  jumping  across  an  occasional 
pool  we  succeeded  in  reaching  the  village. 
There  were  not  more  than  ten  houses  in  the 
place,  and  the  people  did  not  understand  Eng- 
lish. We  could  not  find  a  tree  large  enough 
to  hold  the  meeting  under  it,  and  so  the  people 
gathered  in  the  shade  of  one  of  the  mud-walled 
huts.  We  began  with  singing,  and  then  Hor- 
ace read  the  seventh  chapter  of  Matthew  in 
Sherbro,  and  I  offered  prayer  through  an  in- 

149 


150  GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFPJCA. 

torpreter.  Next  I  spoke  for  a  short  time  about 
Christ  and  our  need  of  salvation,  in  as  simple 
language  as  possible,  stopping  every  few  words 
to  have  it  interpreted.  Horace,  who  is  a  mem- 
ber of  our  mission  church,  followed  with  a 
few  remarks,  and  we  closed  with  prayer.  The 
people  listened  with  attention,  saying  that  no 
one  else  had  ever  preached  there.  Our  audi- 
ence comprised  a  dozen  adults  and  several  chil- 
dren, yet  these  were  nearly  all  the  inhabitants. 

Leaving  this  small  village,  we  walked  along 
a  shady  path  to  Bonthc,  a  large  town,  many  of 
whose  people  speak  English.  The  meetings 
are  held  in  a  barre,  near  the  center  of  the  place. 
A  good-sized  audience  assembled,  to  whom  we 
spoke  from  the  words,  "  And  ye  will  not  come 
unto  me  that  ye  might  have  life."  Opposite 
the  barre  is  the  kitchen  of  the  town,  and  du- 
ring the  services  I  noticed  several  country 
women  engaged  in  their  work.  A  short  recess 
followed  the  preaching,  and  then  a  Sabbath 
school  was  held.  It  was  nearly  night  when  tlie 
school  closed,  and  the  tide  was  up  so  that  wo 


SAIID.lT/r  LABOUS. 


could  not  walk  home.  The  chief,  however, 
kindly  sent  iis  in  a  log  canoe. 

Dec.  25.  —  Last  Sabbath  I  gathered  about 
Uiirty  people  in  Bro.  Jewett's  school-room.  1 
took  James  for  an  interpreter.  Hardly  one  of 
my  audience  attends  the  chapel  services,  as  they 
do  not 'understand  English.  I  hoped  to  get  a 
dozen  together,  and  was  agreeably  disappointed 
to  see  so  many.  Mr.  Jewett  and  James  went 
about  to  their  houses,  and  sent  them  in  one  by 
one.  Some,  as  they  came  to  the  door,  woidd 
stop  and  hesitate,  as  though  afraid  to  enter ; 
but  as  I  pointed  them  to  a  seat,  they  would 
come  in  half  bont,  with  a  gliding,  frightened 
motion.  As  I  stood  iip  to  address  that  little, 
strange-looking  company  of  heathen  in  the  mud- 
walled  school-liouse,  I  felt  very  deeply  my  need 
of  strength  from  above.  Our  services  were 
much  as  iisual.  More  than  ever  do  I  perceive 
that  it  is  not  by  might,  nor  by  power,  Init  by 
the  Iloly  Spirit,  that  souls  are  led  to  Jesus. 

A  week  ago  I  preached  at  Bendoo,  a  thriving 
village  some  live  miles  away.  A  boat  was  sent 
Ibr  mo  in  the  morning,  and  after  an  hour's  ride, 


152  GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFPdCA. 

getting  aground  several  times  on  the  sand-ljaiiks, 
we  reached  the  landing.  I  was  warmly  wel- 
comed by  several  of  the  people  at  the  beach. 
An  audience  of  a  hundred  and  twenty-nine  as- 
sembled in  the  chapel,  which  is  commodious, 
with  rude  seats,  mud  walls,  thatched  roof,  and 
sand  floor.  Through  the  open  windows  came 
the  breath  of  the  tropics,  and  the  noon-day  sun- 
shine rested  on  the  luxuriant  vegetation  of  this 
land  of  fruits  and  flowers.  Everything  was 
hushed  and  quiet,  and  as  I  looked  on  the  neatly- 
dressed  congregation  before  me,  my  heart  over- 
flowed with  thanksgiving  that  I  had  been  per- 
mitted to  witness  such  a  sight  on  Africa's  shores. 

Jan.  23. —  Last  Sabbath  was  a  beautiful  day, 
with  a  fine  breeze.  About  nine  I  started  for 
Keilah,  distant  some  four  miles.  It  was  very 
pleasant  sailing  over  the  sparkling  river  that 
quiet  morning,  and  I  thanked  God  that  I  was 
tlius  permitted  to  go  from  place  to  place,  bear- 
ing the  glad  tidings  of  salvation  to  those  who 
sit  in  darkness.  I  was  welcomed  by  the  chief, 
who  soon  called  his  people  together.  I  stood 
in  tlie  piazza  of  his  country  house,  but  most  of 


SABBATH  LABORS. 


153 


the  congregation  were  sitting  on  tlie  ground 
under  a  large  mango  tree.  They  gazed  ear- 
nestly into  my  face  as  I  spoke  awhile  of  Christ 
and  tlieir  need  of  salvation.  I  promised  to 
meet  them  again  in  two  weeks,  and,  bidding 
them  good-by,  returned  to  Good  Hope.  Aftar 
a  half  hour's  rest  and  a  lunch,  I  started  for 
Bonthe.  A  goodly  number  were  gathered  in 
the  barrc.  I  had  preached  in  the  same  place 
the  Sabbath  before,  and  now  one  man  came  to 
mc  wishing  to  be  married  to  the  woman  with 
whom  he  had  lived  for  some  time,  saying  that 
he  had  been  thinking  about  death,  and  he  want^ 
ed  to  break  off  his  sins.  It  was  cheering  to  see 
that  the  truth  had  made  some  impression  upon 
him.  It  was  near  night  when  I  returned  home, 
much  wearied,  but  happy.  These  little  gather- 
ings in  heathen  towns  and  villages  are  very 
pleasant  to  the  missionary.  I  shall  not  soon 
forget  the  Sabbaths  spent  under  the  mango 
tree  or  in  the  barre. 

Feb.  1.  —  Leaving  Keilah,  we  crossed  over  to 
Dumbuco,  a  village  that  was  plundered  a  year 
ago  by  a  war-party  from  the  interior.    It  is  dif- 


151 


GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFPJCA. 


ficult  to  get  there  at  low  tide,  a  wide  strip  of 
swamp  intervening  between  the  river-side  and 
the  town.  A  narrow,  winding  ciianncl  has  been 
dug  through  it,  which  is  filled  with  water  when 
the  tide  is  up.  "We  passed  up  this  channel,  the 
boat  sometimes  touching  one  side  and  some- 
times the  other.  A  few  men  stood  watching  us 
as  we  landed.  I  inquired  for  the  chief,  but  he 
was  not  at  home.  A  young  man,  however,  con- 
ducted mo  to  the  house  of  the  chiefs  mother, 
an  old  woman,  vdio  was  lying  sick  in  a  small 
country  house.  She  spoke  broken  English,  and 
seemed  pleased  when  I  told  her  that  I  had  come 
to  talk  about  God.  She  called  the  people  into 
her  little  house,  and  Horace  interpreted  for  me 
as  I  tried  to  tell  that  group  of  heathen  the  story 
of  the  cross.  The  country  house  where  we  held 
the  meeting  was  very  rude  and  small.  My  com- 
panion and  I  sat  on  a  rough  box.  Some  of  tlie 
heathen  women  seemed  afraid  to  enter,  ]iut  they 
finally  ventured  to  come  and  crouch  on  the  l)ar{l 
nuid  floor,  and  lean  against  the  clay-plastered 
wall.  It  was  a  strange  but  interesting  scene  as 
I  stood  up  {o  preach  in  that  rude  luit,  with  tho 


SABDATII  LABORS. 


interpreter  at  my  side.  As  we  commenced  the 
meeting  there  was  some  talking  and  noise,  but 
t)>e  people  soon  became  silent,  and  listened  at- 
tentively. The  chief's  mother  thanked  us  re- 
peatedly for  coming.  We  left  with  those  feelings 
that  tlie  missionary  among  the  heathen  knows 
so  well  from  experience  when  he  has  been  try- 
ing in  weakness  and  imperfection  to  sow  the 
gospel  seed. 

Ang.  8. — Yesterday  was  the  holy  Sabbath. 
It  dawned 

"With  breath  all  incense, 
And  with  cheek  all  bloom." 

After  the  long  weeks  of  constant,  heavy  rains, 
it  seemed  very  delightful  to  see  such  a  beautiful 
morning.  The  sky  was  a  soft,  deep  blue  ;  the 
sunshine  rested  on  the  shining  leaves  of  the 
trees  ;  the  river  lay  bright  and  still,  just  rippled 
by  the  light,  cooling  breeze  ;  and  the  sweet  song 
of  birds  came  in  through  the  open  windows. 
The  ride  to  York  Island  in  the  little  blue  boat, 
my  "  Sabbath  home,"  was  delightful ;  and  all 
tlie  way  my  soul  welled  up  in  a  hymn  of  praise 
to  God  for  the  beauties  that  were  visible.  On- 


15G  ,     GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 

ward  Avc  sped,  now  dashing  across  a  wide  strip 
of  blue,  sparkling  water,  now  creeping  close 
along  the  shore  of  a  mangrove  island,  to  avoid 
the  furious  tide  ;  now  gliding  over  huslicd  wa- 
ters, and  now  gently  rocked  by  shining  wavelets ; 
overhead  the  most  entrancing  of  tropical  skies, 
dotted  with  floating  clouds  of  fleecy  white  ;  the 
distant  horizon  tinted  with  violet  and  azure ; 
on,  meeting  now  and  then  a  log  canoe,  witli  its 
half-naked  paddlers ;  on,  past  the  queer  little 
town  of  Yellebanah,  sleeping  in  the  rich  sun- 
light ;  round  "  the  point,"  and  then,  borne 
by  the  swift  tide,  quickly  wo  reach  the  land- 
ing-place. The  brown  mud  houses,  with  their 
thatched  roofs,  clustered  beneath  the  giant  cot- 
ton-trees and  groves  of  cocoa,  look  very  prettily. 
The  little  bell  was  already  ringing  as  I  stepped 
upon  the  beach,  and  soon  a  goodly  congregatio'.i 
had  gathered  in  the  spacious,  airy  coimtry  house 
where  our  meetings  are  held.  I  spoke  from  the 
first  and  second  verses  of  the  one  hundred  and 
thirty-ninth  Psalm.  The  groups  seated  around 
me  listened  with  attention.  I  was  cheered  by 
the  cordial  welcome  which  I  received,  after  be- 


SABBATH  LABOnS. 


157 


ing  detained  from  them  for  two  weeks  by  sick- 
ness. 

From  York  Isiand  to  Bontlie  I  had  another 
refreshing  hour  on  the  water.  As  we  rounded 
the  last  mangrove  island  and  came  in  sight  of 
the  long  shore,  the  scene  was  striking.  The 
horizon  was  clear,  and  here  and  there  rose  state- 
ly palms  and  giant  cotton-trees.  Seven  villages 
were  in  sight ;  and  as  we  passed  along,  now  and 
then  a  boat  or  canoe  could  bo  seen  gliding  over 
the  shining  river.  Far  to  the  south-east,  vailed 
with  the  lightest  of  haze,  lay  the  shore  of  the 
continent.  My  audience  was  attentive,  but  not 
large,  and  the  Sabbath  school  was  deeply  inter- 
esting. 

In  the  beautiful  moonlight  eve  we  had  ;i  sol- 
emn meeting  in  the  chapel.  Oh  that  God's 
Spirit  might  be  abundantly  poured  out  upon 
us ! 

Oct.  18. — The  absence  of  our  small  boat  pre- 
vented my  usual  Sabbath  preaching  tour,  but  the 
day  was  not  without  its  labors.  Immediately 
after  breakfast  I  went  with  my  interpreter  to  a 
heathen  village  near  by,  hoping  to  bo  able  to 


158 


GLIMPSES  01''  WEST  AFIUCA. 


tell  of  Jesus  to  some  who  do  not  understand 
English.  AVe  found  a  group  of  people  in  one 
of  the  yards,  seated  together  in  a  favorable  po- 
sition. Among  them  Avero  several  strangers 
from  Gallinas,  who  had  never  before  heard  the 
word.  I  told  them  it  was  God's  day,  and  we 
had  come  to  talk  to  them  about  him.  They 
thanked  me,  and  said  they  would  listen.  One 
intelligent-looking  woman,  who  seemed  to  be  a 
sort  of  leader,  did  most  of  the  talking.  She 
wore  an  abundance  of  gree-grees  on  her  neck 
and  wrists.  I  related  in  simple  words  the  story 
of  God's  love  for  us,  and  my  young  man  inter- 
preted. As  I  ended  I  invited  them  to  ask  any 
questions  about  the  subject  which  they  might 
wish.  The  head  woman  said  that  they  had 
heard  my  word ;  it  was  true  ;  they  thanked  me 
for  it ;  they  would  remember  it  when  they  went 
home,  and  would  try  to  obey  God's  teachings, 
and  pray  to  him,  I  asked  her  why  she  wore 
gree-grees. 

"  They  keep  my  life  in  me,"  she  answered. 
I  told  her  of  the  folly  of  such  a  trust,  and  that 
they  did  not  help  her  at  all.    I  asked  lier  if  she 


SADBATII  LAUOnS. 


159 


Bxipposcd  that  if  she  were  drowning  in  the  river 
tlie  grce-grees  could  save  her. 

"  Yes,"  she  quickly  replied. 

"  But  I  am  alive,"  said  I,  "  and  do  not  wear 
grce-grees ;  and  so  are  many  other  people." 

"  But  you  are  ditferent  from  xis  ;  if  I  was  in 
America  I  would  take  them  olf,  but  here  I  do 
not  dare  to,"  she  answered.  "A  mnrray-man 
gave  them  to  me,  and  I  have  worn  them  ever 
since  I  was  a  little  girl." 

I  told  her  that  God  was  angry  with  us  if  we 
trusted  in  anything  but  him. 

"  You  are  different  from  us,"  she  said ;  "  you 
arc  white  and  we  are  black." 

"  But  God  says  that  he  has  made  of  one 
blood  all  nations  that  dwell  on  the  earth,  and 
he  will  jjunish  black  and  white  alike  for  tlieir 
sins." 

She  made  no  reply,  and  I  continued  :  "  You 
say  that  you  believe  there  is  but  one  God  ;  that 
is  true ;  so  there  can  be  but  one  way  to  serve 
him,  and  go  where  he  dwells ;  and  if  we  trust 
in  gree-greos,  we  do  not  walk  in  that  way." 

Wo  continued   our  conversation   for  some 


ICO 


GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 


tiino  tlirougli  the  interpreter.  She  clung  to 
her  gree-grees,  though  she  could  give  no  reasou 
v/hy  they  should  help  her.  She  gave  evidence 
of  possessing  a  good  mind,  but  it  was  crushed 
and  blighted  by  heathenism  and  its  supersti- 
tions. As  I  left,  she  said,  "  I  thank  you  for 
what  you  have  told  me  ;  may  God  grant  us  both 
long  life."  Oh  tliat  the  seed  sown  in  her  heart 
on  that  Sabbath  morning  may  bear  fruit  to  eter- 
nal life ! 

Returning  from  Gondamar,  I  attended  the 
morning  services  at  the  chapel.  At  half-past 
three  came  the  Sabbath  school.  The  attend- 
ance was  good,  and  the  hoiir  passed  pleasantly, 
closing  by  singing,  "  I  have  a  Father  in  the 
promised  land."  Tlie  evening  was  clear  and 
calm,  with  a  full  moon.  I  preached  to  a  large 
audience  from  the  words,  "  Jesus  Christ,  the 
same  yesterday,  and  to-day,  and  for  ever." 


CHAPTER  XII. 


A  MISSIONARY  TOUR. 

PRIL  25. — Having  a  favorable  opportu- 
nity, and  feeling  the  need  of  a  change,  I 
left  home  on  Tuesday  morning  for  a  short 
trip  towards  the  interior  of  the  country. 
The  little  blue  boat,  my  Sabbath  home,  was 
rigged  and  manned,  and  we  started  about  half- 
past  ten.  The  day  was  one  of  the  brightest 
and  most  beautiful  that  the  tropics  afford,  and 
the  ride  for  the  first  few  hours  was  delightful ; 
but  while  crossing  the  bar  at  the  moutli  of  the 
Bargroo,  the  water  became  frightfully  roiigh. 
A  strong  wind  blew  from  the  sea,  and  the  waves 
rolled  like  ocean-billows.  It  seemed  as  though 
our  little  boat  would  be  overwhelmed,  bu.t  it 
rode  gracefully  over  the  towering  waves,  thoiigh 
the  spray  and  bill(^ws  broke  over  its  side  till  we 


1C2  GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFItlCA. 

became  tlioroughly  drenched.  Soon  the  water 
became  smoother,  and  following  the  wuiduigs 
of  the  Bargi'oo  and  the  crooked  Mahno,  wo 
reached  Avery  station  about  five  P.  M.  Bro. 
Jcwett  gave  me  a  cordial  w^elcome,  and  we 
spent  a  pleasant  evening  in  social  converse  and 
prayer. 

Bro.  Jewett  kindly  offered  to  accompany  me 
on  my  journey  to  King  Sissiwuru's  town  ;  and 
having  made  the  needful  arrangements,  we  left 
early  on  Wednesday  morning.  One  of  the 
king's  sons  was  at  Mahno,  and  we  secured  him 
as  a  guide.  We  returned  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Mahno,  and  then  entered  the  comparatively 
unknown  Bargroo.  The  weather  was  bright 
and  beautiful,  the  air  soft  and  warm.  We 
had  a  double  object  in  the  trip, — to  tell  the 
story  of  redeeming  love  in  town  and  village, 
and  to  see  and  explore  new  regions. 

We  soon  reached  Yoggeh,  a  pleasant  little 
town,  situated  in  a  palm-grove,  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  Bargroo.  We  landed  at  a  large  timber- 
factory  near  by,  and  walked  to  the  old  town 
of  Yoggeh,  passing  several,  "  country-fashion 


A  MISSIONARY  TOUR. 


163 


liouscR,"  built  over  portions  of  bug-a-bug  liills. 
The  Iniul  is  elevated,  the  air  fresh,  the  water 
cool,  and  many  villages  are  seen  a  little  back 
from  tlio  river.  The  groves  of  graceful  palms 
diversified  the  appearance  of  the  country. 

Before  ten  wo  reached  Kcrrehhoo,  a  line- 
looking  town  on  a  bluff,  with  a  back-ground  of 
tropical  foliage  ;  but  wo  had  no  time  to  call. 
Boyond  Kerrchhoo  the  Bargroo  grows  narrower, 
and  both  banks  are  lined  with  large,  tall  man- 
groves, and  hills  and  forests  a  little  way  back. 
TliO  bright  sunlight,  a  fresh  breeze,  and  an  easy, 
swift  boat,  made  the  voyage  delightful. 

Just  beyond  Kerrehhoo,  we  passed  Mahno 
Mountain,  a  high  elevation,  partly  covered  with 
trees.  This  mountain  is  regarded  as  a  kind  of 
sacred  place  by  the  people,  the  residence  of  tlio 
great  spirit  Kasilon,  before  spoken  of.  At  noon 
we  passed  Tassaw,  a  large  town  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  stream.  The  people  came  in  throngs  to 
the  river-side,  to  watch  us  as  we  passed.  The 
country  in  the  vicinity  is  hilly  and  rocky,  and 
the  river  winding.  Some  two  miles  above  Tas- 
saw  we  left  the  Bargroo,  and  entered  Mosandy 


IGi  GLIMVSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 

Creok,  a  small  river  whose  general  course  i3 
from  the  north-east.  A  short  distance  from  the 
river-side  there  are  beautiful  groves  of  palm, 
and  hills  covered  with  forests.  A  half-hour 
further  brought  us  to  the  town  of  Mosandy, 
situated  on  a  slight  elevation  amid  clusters  of 
palms.  Here,  too,  the  people  came  flocking  to 
the  river-bank,  but  we  could  not  stop.  I  no- 
ticed several  little  "  country-fashion  houses " 
perched  on  a  high  bank  under  the  trees. 

About  2  p.  M.  we  arrived  at  Gondamar,  be- 
yond which  we  could  not  pass  in  our  boat,  on 
account  of  rocks.  Taking  a  present  in  my 
hand,  I  called  on  Boondookeh,  the  king,  and 
asked  permission  to  leave  the  boat  in  his  care. 
He  consented,  and  all  the  portable  articles  were 
brought  up,  and  shown  to  him,  separately,  so 
that  nothing  might  be  lost ;  they  were  then 
carefully  packed  away  in  his  house.  "We  knew 
that  he  would  regard  his  promise  as  sacred,  and 
that  our  things  would  be  as  safe  as  if  defended 
by  an  armed  guard.  Without  resting,  we  started 
forward  on  foot,  intending  to  stop  at  the  first 
town  and  cook  our  food.   Our  path  lay  through 


A  MissioyAnr  tour. 


1G5 


ail  open  field,  dotted  with  palms,  while  hills 
could  b3  seen  rising  in  the  distance.  A  short 
walk  brought  us  to  Mo  Bak,  a  new  town,  be- 
longing to  Sissiwuru.  "While  the  men  wore 
cooking,  Bar  Bak,  the  king,  called  some  of  his 
licoijle  together,  and  we  preached  to  them 
tlu'ough  an  interpreter.  They  spread  their 
mats  on  the  ground  at  our  feet,  and  sat  down, 
gazing  earnestly  at  us,  as  we  told  them  of  God 
and  the  Saviour,  occasionally  clapping  their 
hands,  or  making  some  exclamation  of  approval. 
After  talking  a  while,  we  invited  them  to  ask 
us  any  questions  that  they  might  wish  to  on 
the  subject.  In  the  course  of  my  remarks,  I 
had  tried  to  show  them  the  importance  of  pray- 
ing to  the  great  God  who  made  xis,  instead  of 
offering  sacrifice  to  spirits,  worshiping  bug-a- 
bug  hills  and  gree-grees ;  and  now  they  eagerly 
inquired,  "  How  can  we  pray  so  that  God  can 
hear  us  ? "  I  tried  to  explain,  and  they  seemed 
to  comprehend.  Bro.  Jewett  talked  to  them  for 
some  time  with  great  plainness  and  earnestness, 
to  which  they  listened  with  deep  attention. 
Wc  then  joined  in  a  short,  simple  prayer,  whicU 


ICG 


GLIMPSES  Oi''  WEST  AFniCA. 


was  iutcrprctccl  into  Sherbro.  At  tlie  close,  I 
told  tliom  that  I  hoped  they  would  not  forget 
th3  words  we  had  spoken  to  them  when  we  were 
far  away,  and  never  shall  I  forget  the  remark- 
ablo  answer  I  received.  It  came  from  a  hea- 
tlicu  woman,  ignorant  of  a  word  of  English, 
who  probably  had  never  before  heard  of  the 
Saviour  from  the  lips  of  any  one.  She  said, 
"  Suppose  you  take  a  cassada-stick,  cut  it  in 
two,  a!id  plant  the  pieces  in  the  ground ;  soon 
it  v>^ill  sprout  and  grow.*  So  it  will  be  with  the 
word  you  drop  in  our  hearts  to-day ;  it  can  not 
die,  but  when  you  are  far  away  it  will  spring 
up  and  grow."  Oh,  how  that  answer,  coming 
from  such  a  source,  tlirilled  my  soul,  and  re- 
buked my  lack  of  faith  !  It  was  perfectly  in  ac- 
cordance with  the  teachings  of  God's  word,  ar.d 
no  divine  could  have  expressed  it  more  forci- 
bly. 

We  left  Mo  Bak  about  four  o'clock  in  the  af- 
ternoon.   The  nearest  town  on  our  route  was 

*  Referring  to  the  mode  of  propagating  the  cassada  in  iVfrica. 
When  planted  it  seems  a  di'y  stick,  but  it  soon  grows  to  a  large, 
fioarishing  busli. 


A  MISSION'AnY  TOUn. 


1G7 


more  than  twenty  miles  distant,  and  our  path 
lay  through  a  dense  forest,  infested  with  tigers, 
leopards,  and  elephants ;  hut  I  felt  that  my 
time  was  so  limited  that  I  could  not  afford  to 
delay  until  morning.  Our  party  consisted  of 
eight, — the  son  of  King  Sissiwuru  for  a  guide, 
Bro.  Jewctt  and  myself,  and  five  men  to  carry 
our  liglit  luggage.  We  started  forward  at  a 
swift  pace,  and  soon  plunged  into  a  thick,  heavy 
forest.  Tiie  road  was  a  mere  narrow  foot-path, 
very  crooked  and  rough,  and  we  "were  often 
compelled  to  creep  through  the  dense  bush 
around  some  fallen  tree,  or  crawl  over  the  trunk 
for  twenty  or  tlurty  feet.  At  first  our  company 
was  somewhat  scattered,  and  the  path  was  so 
winding  that  we  frequently  lost  sight  of  cacli 
other.  Tlie  men  in  advance  occasionally  gave 
a  shrill  cry,  which  was  answered  by  those  hi 
the  rear ;  and  now  and  then,  as  I  strode  swiftly 
onward,  I  caught  sight  of  some  one  flying  past 
a  corner  just  befoi'e  me.  Towards  sunset  we 
reached  a  clear  mountain  stream,  dashing  over 
the  rocks,  and  stopped  a  moment  to  quench 
our  thirst  with  tlie  cool,  sparkliiig  water.  Again 


108 


CLlilPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 


wc  pressed  rapidly  on,  wishing  to  get  as  far  as 
possible  before  darkness  should  set  in.  The 
country  was  hilly  and  rocky,  the  forest  trees 
large  and  lofty,  with  a  thick  growtli  of  under- 
bi-ush.  Night  soon  overtook  us  in  the  midst  of 
the  forest,  many  miles  from  the  nearest  town. 
The  sky  was  beautifully  clear,  and  the  moon 
nearly  full,  but  the  spreading  brandies  of  tlie 
forest  trees  formed  such  an  impenetrable  arch 
that  only  now  and  then  did  a  single  ray  of  the 
soft  moonlight  pierce  through,  and  rest  like 
silver  on  tlie  green  shrubs  by  our  path.  We 
were  compelled  to  moderate  our  pace  a  little, 
and  wallv  as  close  to  each  other  as  possible,  the 
guide  carefully  leading  the  way.  Sometimes 
the  path  conducted  us  through  a  valley  shrouded 
in  almost  total  darkness,  and  we  had  to  exer- 
cise the  utmost  caution  to  prevent  falling  over 
loose  roots  and  stones.  We  knew  that  v/ild 
beasts  roamed  thi'ough  the  forest  seckhig  for 
prey,  but  owv  faculties,  both  of  body  and  mind, 
were  so  taxed  in  making  our  way  through  the 
bush,  that  we  had  no  time  to  fear,  or  scarcely 
to  tliiuk  of  them.    Our  guide  was  faithful,  and, 


.4  MfSSIOX.inY  TOUR. 


IG'J 


heathen  man  though  he  was,  quite  "won  my 
heart  by  his  kindness.  At  every  rough  spot  or 
difficult  place  he  would  stop,  hold  out  his  hand, 
and  lead  me  gently  over  it.  Often,  during  that 
uight  walk,  I  thought  of  the  cheering  answer  of 
the  poor  heathen  woman  at  Mo  Bak,  and  my 
heart  was  encouraged. 

Hour  after  hour  we  pressed  forward  in  silenco, 
and  towards  midnight  reached  a  little  clearing, 
in  which  stood  the  town  of  Mo  Cassy.  The  peo- 
ple were  still  up,  and  crowded  round  us  as  we 
entered.  I  carried  a  present  to  the  king,  and 
told  him  we  wished  to  rest  in  his  town  that 
uight,  and  he  at  once  provided  us  with  a  house. 
As  we  were  reclining  on  mats  in  the  rude  piaz- 
za, I  noticed  that  the  people  still  lingered  about 
in  groups,  conversing  in  their  language,  or  watch- 
ing us ;  so  I  sent  word  to  the  king  that  if  he 
would  call  theiu  together  we  would  talk  "  God- 
word."  They  soon  gathered  to  the  number  of 
seventy  or  eighty,  and  spreading  their  mats  on 
the  white  sand  in  front  of  our  mud-walled  hut, 
they  sat  down  to  listen.  The  scene  was  strange 
and  interesting.    The  hour  was  midnight ;  the 


170 


GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFPJCA. 


place,  a  rude  town  iu  tlio  midst  of  an  African 
forest ;  the  hearers,  a  group  of  lieatben  sitting 
on  mats  at  our  feet ;  and  over  all  rested  the 
rich,  soft  light  of  a  tropical  moon.  Though 
weary  with  our  long  night's  walk,  we  rejoiced  at 
the  opportunity  of  repeating  in  their  eavs  the 
story  of  redeeming  love.  The  interpreter  was 
not  very  skillful,  but  the  people  seemed  to  un- 
derstand most  that  we  said,  and  asked  several 
questions.  Perhaps  none  present  had  ever  be- 
fore heard  about  God  from  the  lips  of  a  mis- 
sionary. 

We  were  objects  of  much  curiosity  to  the 
people.  They  were  specially  pleased  with  my 
watch  and  the  glass  lantern.  At  first,  if  the 
lantern  chanced  to  be  moved  towards  them, 
they  sprang  suddenly  back,  but  soon  lost  their 
fear.  We  slept  soundly  that  night  on  mats 
spread  on  the  mud  floor,  very  grateful  to  our 
kind  heavenly  Father  for  the  manifold  mercies 
of  that  eventful  day  and  evening. 

Early  the  next  morning  we  again  started  for- 
ward. Near  the  town  wo  passed  some  graves, 
on  wliich  a  tin  cup  and  a  few  other  small  ard- 


A  MJsswyAnr  touu. 


171 


clcs  had  boon  laid  as  sacrifices  to  the  spirits  of 
the  dead.  The  country  grew  more  hilly  and 
rocky  as  we  advanced,  and  occasionally  we  had 
to  climb  a  steep  ascent,  or  cross  a  deep  gorga 
on  a  narrow  tree-trunk.  A  rapid  walk  of  a:i 
hour  and  a  half  brought  us  to  the  large  rice 
farms  of  Sissiwuru.  Some  single  fields  consist- 
ed of  thirty  or  forty  acres.  The  trees  and  bush 
had  been  cut  and  set  on  fii'C,  but  large  black- 
ened trunks  and  limbs  were  lying  in  every  di- 
rection, so  that  our  passage  Avas  rendered  difii- 
cult.  A  little  beyond  these  fields  Ave  came  to 
Wallah,  the  capital  of  King  Sissiwuru's  country. 
We  passed  in  through  the  double  gates,  and 
were  at  once  conducted  to  the  royal  house, 
where  the  king,  surrounded  by  his  chief  coun- 
selors, was  sitting  in  state  to  receive  us.  Yv"e 
were  shown  into  the  house  that  Itad  been  pre- 
pared for  us,  a  messenger  having  been  dispatched 
in  advance  to  inform  the  king  of  our  coming. 
Mats  were  spread  on  the  smooth  clay  floor, 
and  a  dish  of  rice  and  fish  set  before  us.  Wo 
did  it  full  justice,  and  after  having  shaken  hands 
with  a  large  luimber  of  people,  a  couch  of  mats 


172 


GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 


and  country  cloths  was  prepared,  and  we  were 
invited  to  lie  down  and  rest.  Tlie  royal  house 
which  Sissiwuru  set  apart  for  me  (probably  be- 
cause, being  white,  I  was  a  greater  curiosity 
than  Bro.  Jewett),  was  really  a  neat  building. 
Like  all  African  houses,  it  was  constructed  of 
clayey  mud,  but  the  walls  were  hard,  smooth, 
and  almost  white.  They  were  adorned  on  the 
outside  with  various  rudely  sketched  figures, 
and  on  the  inside  hung  with  handsome  mats 
and  leopard-skins.  The  floor  was  smooth  and 
solid.  Bro.  Jewett's  house,  a  little  way  off. 
v/as  also  well  furnished. 

After  resting  myself,  tlie  window  and  door 
meanwhile  thronged  with  a  curious  group  watch- 
ing my  every  motion,  I  selected  a  few  presents 
and  carried  them  to  the  king.  Sissiwuru  is  a 
tall,  dignified  man,  with  a  massive  frame  and 
majestic  appearance.  He  was  dressed  in  a  flow- 
ing robe,  somewhat  ornamented,  reaching  a  lit- 
tle below  his  knees  ;  his  feet  were  bare  ;  a  white 
sash  was  tied  around  his  head,  and  in  his  hand 
he  held  a  sort  of  scepter.  He  is  the  richest  and 
most  powerful  king  in  the  whole  region,  and 


A  MISSlOjUAIir  Toun. 


173 


has  four  oi'  five  walled  towns,  beside  large  num- 
bers of  villages.  Sissiwuru  has  been  a  noted 
warrior,  and  has  achieved  many  victories  over 
neighboring  tribes ;  but  now  he  expressed  a  de- 
sire to  live  in  peace  with  all.  He  is  quite  aged, 
but  seems  to  have  lost  none  of  his  native  vigor 
and  energy. 

In  company  with  his  son,  I  passed  around 
the  town,  and  outside  the  gates.  "Wallah  is 
very  strongly  fortified  for  an  African  town. 
The  houses  are  necessarily  very  near  each  other, 
the  thatched  roofs  often  touching ;  and  as  there 
are  no  streets,  a  stranger  will  be  quite  likely  to 
lose  his  way.  Most  of  the  houses  are  neat  and 
substantial,  and  look  really  pretty,  with  their 
smooth,  brown  walls  and  covering  of  thatch. 
Many  kitchens  and  barres,  opening  on  one  and 
sometimes  all  four  sides,  are  scattered  throiigh 
the  town,  and  in  them  the  people  often  gather 
for  conversation.  The  king's  barre  is  the  most 
beautiful  country  building  that  I  have  seen  in 
Africa.  It  is  circular  in  form,  and  the  smooth 
thatched  roof  runs  to  a  point,  which  is  sur. 
mounted  by  a  small  cupola,  and  a  figure  of  a 


174  GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 

bird  carved  in  wood.  Two  or  tlirce  steps  lead 
up  to  the  smooth  floor.  Four  wooden  pillars 
support  tlic  roof.  A  smooth  wall  rises  round 
the  elevated  floor  to  the  hight  of  some  two  feet, 
and,  though  composed  of  a  kind  of  mud,  it  ap- 
pears as  hard  and  smooth  as  freestone.  Two 
miniature  cannon,  perfectly  formed  from  the 
same  substance,  are  placed  on  the  wall  at  the 
two  entrances ;  and  on  one  side  is  a  sort  of 
carved  chair,  also  of  mud.  A  large  hammock 
is  suspended  in  one  part  of  the  barre,  in  which 
the  king  spends  much  of  his  time,  surrounded 
by  fifteen  or  twenty  of  his  chief  men,  who  lie 
on  leopard-skins,  or  sit  on  the  low,  polished  wall. 
Most  of  them  are  armed  with  long,  keen  swords 
of  native  manufacture. 

I  spent  some  time  in  this  barre  during  the 
day  conversing  with  the  king ;  and  the  novelty 
of  a  white  face  always  drew  a  crowd  together. 
A  laugh  was  often  raised  by  the  sudden  screams 
of  terror  from  the  smaller  children  whenever  I 
chanced  to  approach  them.  Doubtless,  many 
of  the  people  had  never  before  seen  a  white 
man.    If  we  walked  through  the  town,  a  group 


A  MISSIONARY  TOUR. 


175 


of  twenty  or  thirty  wd'O  sure  to  follow,  watch- 
ing every  motion  ;  and  whichever  way  I  turned 
I  was  certain  to  meet  staring  eyes. 

Outside  the  walls  of  the  town,  the  forest  is 
cleared  for  some  distance,  so  that  no  enemy  can 
creep  up  unseen.  Large  numbers  of  African 
sheep,  and  a  few  cows,  feed  here  during  the 
day,  but  are  driven  within  the  walls  at  night. 
The  Mahno  river  passes  near  Wallah,  hut  dur- 
ing the  dry  season  it  is  a  mere  brooklet.  Its 
bed  is  filled  with  immense  rocks.  The  country 
in  the  vicinity  is  hilly  and  stony,  and  the  trees 
very  large  and  lofty.  The  soil  is  rich,  produc- 
ing luxuriant  crops  with  but  little  labor.  The 
air  is  pure,  the  water  cleas,  and  the  region  alto- 
gether a  delightful  one.  A  chain  of  mountains, 
covered  with  heavy  forests,  lies  to  the  north- 
west of  Wallah.  They  are  called  by  the  natives 
tlie  Koler  Mountains,  and  are  infested  with 
tigers.  Elephants  are  abundant  in  those  for- 
ests, and  arc  often  killed.  Some  of  Sissiwuru's 
people  were  on  an  elephant-hunt  while  we  were 
there.  Several  large  walled  towns,  and  many 
villages,  are  situated  within  a  few  hours'  walk 


17G 


GJAMPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 


of  Wallah ;  but  our  time  was  too  limited  to 
permit  us  to  visit  them. 

After  a  pleasant  day  in  the  place,  wo  asked 
permission  to  preach,  and  the  king  promised  to 
call  tlie  people  together  in  the  evening,  when 
they  came  in  from  their  farms.  At  twilight 
the  town  began  to  be  thronged.  Kitchen  and 
barre  were  filled  with  talkative  groups,  passing 
to  and  fro.  An  hour  after  dark  a  messenger 
went  around  calling  to  the  people  to  assemble 
in  the  name  of  the  king.  Bro.  Jewett  and  my- 
self had  been  sitting  together,  conversing  and 
reading,  and  as  we  stepped  out  into  the  open 
space  between  the  royal  barre  and  the  king's 
house,  a  sight  met  my  eyes  which  I  shall  never 
forget.  Barre,  piazza,  and  country  house  were 
full,  and  tier  upon  tier  of  people  were  sitting 
on  the  white  sand  at  our  feet,  forming  a  complete 
circle.  Every  eye  was  bent  upon  me.  Over- 
head, in  the  tropical  sky,  rode  the  full  moon, 
shedding  its  soft  light  on  the  scene,  and  a  few 
stars  looked  faintly  down.  Standing  in  the 
midst  of  this  interesting  congregation,  I  told 
them  in  simple  words  about  God  and  Chiist. 


A  mssiONAnr  Toun. 


177 


All  interpretei'  stood  at  my  side,  and  rendered 
what  I  said  into  Sherbro.  Another,  with  a 
commanding  figure  and  a  powerful  voice,  tliat 
could  be  lieard  far  away,  took  the  words  from 
him  and  turned  them  into  Mendi,  so  tliat  all 
might  understand.  The  people  listened  atten- 
tively, now  and  then  making  some  sign  of  appro- 
bation. Bro.  Jewett  followed  with  some  excel- 
lent remarks,  and  some  questions  were  asked 
by  the  people.  We  closed  with  a  short  prayer, 
which  also  went  through  two  interpreters.  In 
the  course  of  the  prayer  I  remembered  the  king 
particularly,  and  at  the  close  of  every  petition 
relating  to  liim  the  people  on  all  sides  clapped 
tlieir  hands  enthusiastically.  This  showed  us 
that  they  loved  tlieir  king,  and  understood,  too, 
wliat  we  were  saying.  After  the  prayer,  they 
soon  scattered  through  the  town,  discussing 
among  themselves  what  they  had  just  lieard. 
From  a  partial  count,  we  judged  that  more  than 
three  hundred  were  present. 

Early  the  next  morning,  we  made  prepara- 
tions to  return.  Sissiwuru  sent  us  a  present 
of  a  slieep  and  fowls,  and  expressed  much  anx- 

12 


178 


GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AEJUCA. 


iety  to  have  a  school  established  in  his  town. 
Our  procession,  as  it  issued  from  the  gates  of 
Wallah  and  wound  along  the  narrow  path,  num- 
hored  some  thirty.  Several  of  the  king's  sons 
and  war-men,  armed  with  swords,  accompanied 
ns  as  an  escort.  About  a  mile  from  the  place, 
most  of  them  bade  us  good-bj  and  returned, 
thougli  a  few  continued  with  us  through  the 
day.  We  pressed  rapidly  on  over  the  rough, 
winding  path,  reaching  Mo  Gassy  about  ten, 
A.  M.  Wc  merely  paused  to  get  a  drink  of  wa- 
ter, and  bid  Karfungbu,  the  king,  good-by,  and 
then  continued  our  journey.  Hardly  a  ray  of 
the  noonday  sun  pierced  through  the  overhang- 
ing branches  of  the  trees,  but  still  the  air  was 
very  hot.  Hour  after  hour  passed,  and  we  con- 
tinued our  rapid  pace,  till  I  felt  like  sinking  to 
the  earth  with  fatigue. 

Towards  night  we  reached  Gondamar,  where 
we  had  left  our  boat,  having  walked  thirty  miles 
over  a  rough  path  without  stopping.  Wc  were 
just  in  season  to  obtain  shelter  from  a  lieavy 
tornado.  While  the  men  were  cooking,  we 
threw  ourselves  on  some  mats  in  the  king's 


A  M!ssioif.iRY  roun. 


179 


house  to  rest.  Every  article  that  we  had  Ijffc 
in  Booiidookeh's  care  was  safe.  The  tornado 
was  soon  over,  and  the  setting  sun  came  out  in 
all  its  glory  hehiud  a  grove  of  palms.  The  king 
summoned  his  people,  and  while  the  men  were 
rigging  the  hoat  we  preached  in  tlie  barre  to  an 
attentive  audience  of  eighty.  They  said  that 
they  believed  the  word  we  spoke  was  true,  and 
they  would  try  to  pray  to  God,  and  had  some 
questions  to  ask  about  him.  They  seemed  to 
receive  the  gospel  with  gladness ;  oh  that  those 
few  words  might  be  blessed  to  their  salvation ! 
A  few  feet  from  where  I  stood  was  a  sort  of  al- 
tar, on  which  sacrifices  are  offered  to  spirits. 

Bidding  Boondookeh  good-by,  we  hastened  to 
the  boat,  nearly  the  whole  town  following  ns. 
Soon  we  were  gliding  swiftly  down  Mosandy 
Creek  in  the  beautiful  moonliglit.  After  the 
weary  walk  of  the  day,  we  were  well  prepared 
to  enjoy  the  quiet  scene.  It  was  really  lovely 
Avhen  wo  entered  the  Bargroo.  .  Above  us 
stretched  the  clear,  blue  heavens ;  far  to  the 
south  glowed  the  mild  Southern  Cross,  and  low 
iu  the  northern  sky  wo  could  just  distinguish 


180  GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 


the  north  star.  The  ascending  moon  flooded 
the  river  with  silvery  light,  save  where  the  bor- 
dering mangroves  cast  a  dark,  weird  shade. 
Now  and  then  we  passed  a  picturesque  town  on 
tlic  river  bank.  It  was  almost  midnight  when 
we  reached  Avery.  The  next  day  I  returned  to 
Good  Hope,  feeling  that  truly  God  had  fulfilled 
to  me  those  sweet  promises  recorded  in  the 
ninety-first  Psalm. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


SIEHRA  LEONE. 

HE  English  colony  of  Sierra  Leone  is  somO' 
times  called  "  the  stronghold  of  missions  " 
?^  on  the  coast  of  West  Africa.  And  per- 
haps it  deserves  that  name,  for  it  is  indeed 
a  bright  spot,  from  whence  good  influences  are 
being  diffused  among  the  surrounding  tribes. 
In  many  respects  it  is  far  inferior  to  Liberia, 
yet  as  a  missionary  center  it  may  be  regarded 
as  fully  its  equal. 

The  colony  was  established  about  a  century 
ago,  and  occupies  a  peninsula  containing  some 
three  hundred  square  miles.  This  peninsula  is 
situated  in  latitude  8°  30' N.,  and  is  Iwunded 
on  one  side  by  the  Sierra  Leone  River,  and  on 
the  other  by  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  Its  scenery  is 
said  to  he  finer  than  that  of  any  other  point  on 

181 


182 


GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 


til 8  western  coast  of  Africa.  No  traveler,  ap- 
proacliing  its  harbor  after  a  weary  sca-voyagc, 
can  remain  an  indifferent  spectator  of  the  scene 
that  rises  before  his  eyes.  At  first  tlie  moun- 
tains loom  up  faint  and  blue,  lying  cloud-like 
in  the  far  horizon  ;  but,  as  he  nears  the  coast, 
each  peak  gradually  assumes  its  own  peculiar 
shape,  and,  crowned  with  a  wealth  of  foliage, 
towers  against  a  back-ground  of  dreamy  tropical 
sky.  A  few  green  open  slopes  and  cultivated 
patches,  with  here  and  there  a  pretty  village 
perched  on  the  hill-side,  vary  the  prospect ;  while 
on  a  narrow  plain,  between  the  foot  of  the  moun- 
tain and  the  Sierra  Leone  River,  lies  Freetown, 
the  chief  city,  and  capital  of  the  colony.  A  few 
vessels  are  anchored  iu  the  harbor,  and  opposite 
the  town,  across  the  bay-like  moutli  of  the  river, 
the  eye  discovers  the  low,  level  Buliom  shore, 
stretching  away  in  the  distance.  Over  all  rests 
that  soft  haze  which  is  peculiar  to  the  tropics, 
hiding  every  harsh  outline  and  uncouth  feature, 
and  causing  the  whole  view  to  seem  almost  like 
the  scenery  of  a  fairy  tale.  The  graceful  palms, 
that  stand  like  sentinels  along  the  beach,  tlicir 


SIKnn.i  LEOXE. 


183 


lo'.ig  plumes  bonding  idly  in  the  air  ;  the  bcau- 
liliil  cocoa-nut,  with  its  clusters  of  fruit  sur 
rounding  the  parent  stem ;  the  luxuriant  or- 
chards of  l)anana  and  plantain,  loaded  with  huge 
bunches  of  ripening  fruit,  and  the  long,  broad 
leaves  shining  in  the  sunlight ;  the  pyramidal 
broad-fruit,  the  fragrant  orange,  the  blossoming 
lime-hedge,  with  numerous  otiier  foreign-look- 
ing trees,  shrubs,  and  flowering  vines,  all  con- 
spire to  rivet  the  gazo  of  the  looker-on,  and  fill 
him  with  admiration. 

In  a  commercial  point  of  view.  Sierra  Leone 
is  a  place  of  some  importance.  Vessels  from 
all  parts  of  tlic  world  frequent  its  harbor,  bring- 
ing tho  merchandise  of  other  countries  in  ex- 
change for  palm-oil,  hides,  ground-nuts,  &c., 
which  are  procured  up  the  rivers,  and  brought 
down  by  native  traders  in  rude  canoes.  Several 
foreign  traders  liave  established  themselves  in 
the  colony,  and  are  doing  a  thriving  business  in 
this  trade  ;  but  a  lai'go  part  of  the  business  of 
Sierra  Leone  is  transacted  through  the  native 
merchants.  Some  of  these  exhibit  a  good  deal 
of  sagacity,  and  have  acquired  considerable 


184  GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 

wealth.  Many  of  tliem  have  had  to  sti'ugglo 
with  great  difficulties,  and  by  their  perseverance 
have  overcome  obstacles  at  which  even  £ome 
New  England  boys  would  have  been  daunted. 
The  history  of  many  a  Sierra  Leone  man  effect- 
ually shows  that  the  African  is  possessed  of 
more  native  ability  than  many  have  been  wont 
to  believe.  One  of  the  leading  merchants  whom 
I  met  there  was  stolen  when  a  child  from  the 
far  interior.  Fortunately,  the  vessel  in  which 
he  was  confined  was  captured  by  the  English 
fleet,  and  he  was  liberated  at  Freetown.  But 
he  was  a  poor  boy,  alone  among  strangers,  and 
surrounded  by  heathen  influences.  He  strug- 
gled on  amid  many  trials  and  disappointments, 
and  now  he  owns  a  store  in  Freetown  which 
would  be  no  disgrace  to  an  American  city  ;  and, 
what  is  better,  he  is  an  active  Christian  man. 
Other  cases,  as  marked  as  this,  might  be  nar- 
rated, and,  if  the  history  were  fully  given,  it 
would  certainly  contain  many  touching  inci- 
dents and  strange,  wild  adventures,  as  well  as 
forcibly  illustrate  the  power  of  well-directed  ef- 
fort even  in  heathen  Africa. 


SIERRA  LEONE. 


185 


The  population  of  Sierra  Lconc  is  variously 
estimated.  Its  chief  city,  Freetown,  is  supposed 
to  contain  tliirty  thousand  inhabitants  ;  and  per- 
haps there  are  as  many  more  in  the  towns  and 
villages  scattered  among  the  romantic  hills  and 
valleys  of  the  colony.  The  population  may  he 
divided  into  three  classes,  —  foreign  residents, 
educated  natives,  and  common  people.  There 
are  also  many  subdivisions  of  the  people  depend- 
ing on  the  tribe  or  country  from  which  they 
originally  came.  The  foreign  residents  are  few 
in  number,  and  comprise  missionaries,  govern- 
ment officers,  and  traders.  The  missionaries 
are  chiefly  supported  by  the  Established  Clmrch, 
and  Wesleyan  Methodist,  Societies  of  England, 
and,  notwithstanding  the  idle  tales  of  want  of 
success,  told  by  some  travelers  who  have  spent 
three  or  four  days  in  the  colony,  and  gone  away 
laden  with  that  superabundant  wisdom  which 
such  temporary  sojourns  always  beget,  they  are 
doing  a  most  excellent  work.  It  must  bo  con- 
fessed, however,  that  the  influence  of  many  of 
the  traders  and  government  officials  is  anything 
but  favorable  to  the  morals  of  the  people.  Tlie 


186 


GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA, 


second  class,  educated  natives,  comprise  minis- 
ters, lawyers,  physicians,  editors,  teachers,  mer- 
chants, mechanics,  and  others  who  have  enjoyed 
the  advantages  of  schools.  The  attainments  of 
some  arc  very  limited,  but  a  few  would  rank 
quite  high  as  scholars.  The  educated  class  is 
increasing  year  by  year,  and  it  is  hoped  that 
they  will  soon  outnumber  the  lower  class,  who 
now  form  the  larger  part  of  tlio  population. 
Many  of  tlie  latter  profess  Christianity,  but  tlioy 
mingle  with  their  worship  and  belief  many  rel- 
ics of  heathenism.  Others  still  cling  to  their 
olden  ways. 

A  few  of  the  early  settlers  of  Sierra  Leoiiq 
came  from  Nova  Scotia, — free  negroes,  who  had 
aided  tlie  British  during  the  American  Revolu- 
tionary war,  and  for  whom  they  felt  bound  to 
provide  ;  but  nearly  all  of  the  present  inhab- 
itants are  "  liberated  Africans "  and  their  de- 
scendants. The  term  "  liberated  Africans  "  is 
applied  to  such  as  have  been  rescued  from  slavo- 
barracoons  and  slave-ships  on  the  African  coast. 
Sierra  Leone,  consequently,  is  almost  entirely 
peopled  by  those  who  have  been  rescued  from 


Si  I  EUR  A  LEONE. 


187 


the  fearful  doom  of  slavery,  and  have  found 
here  a  refuge  and  a  home. 

Freetown,  the  capital  and  chief  tov/n  of  tlio 
colony,  is  a  city  of  strange  extremes.  Civiliz.i- 
tion  and  barbarism  meet  in  its  streets  and  walic 
side  by  side.  The  contrasts  are  striking,  and 
sometimes  ludicrous.  Hero  goes  an  English 
lady,  with  rustling  silks  and  spotless  muslin ; 
and  closely  following  is  a  poor  heathen  woman, 
half  naked,  with  chalk-marked  face  and  gro- 
tesquely-braided hair.  Yonder  is  a  Freiiclunan, 
attired  in  the  latest  Parisian  styles  ;  and  a  few 
steps  behind  him  a  stately  Mohammedan  from 
the  interior,  his  flowing  robe  reaching  from  his  • 
shoulders  nearly  to  the  ground,  and  his  arms 
and  neck  hung  with  an  abundance  of  gree-grees. 
Market-women  go  chatting  along  the  streets, 
balancing  their  "blies"  of  fruit  and  vegetables 
on  tiieir  heads  ;  and  little  children,  destitute  of 
any  covering,  toddle  after  them.  Tiicrc  is  no 
roar  of  carriages,  but  the  ever-passing  throngs 
keep  up  a  constant  stream  of  talk,  varied  with 
frequent  shrill  exclamations  and  bursts  of  laugh- 
ter.  This  noise  sometimes  becomes  almost  deaf- 


188 


GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFniCA. 


eiiing,  especially  in  the  narrow  streets,  which 
are  lined  with  shops,  where  excited  crowds 
gather  round  the  different  stands,  eagerly  intent 
on  driving  a  bargain.  Many  of  tlie  joeople,  in 
their  intercourse  with  each  other,  use  the  lan- 
guage of  the  tribe  to  which  they  belong  ;  and 
as  there  are  representatives  of  sixty  or  seventy 
tribes  in  Freetown,  as  many  different  languages 
are  spoken.  Nearly  all,  however,  speak  a 
broken  English,  which  furnishes  a  iiniversal 
medium  of  communication. 

The  foreign  residents  and  better  class  of  na- 
tives live  in  frame  or  stone  houses,  often  fur- 
0  nished  luxuriantly  with  carpets,  sofas,  and  other 
articles  of  furniture  imported  from  Europe. 
The  larger  portion  of  the  houses,  however,  are 
built  in  native  style,  and  of  course  are  very 
rude. 

Some  extracts  from  my  journal  during  a 
brief  residence  in  Sierra  Leone,  though  they 
may  prove  somewhat  egotistic,  will,  perhaps, 
give  a  better  picture  of  life  there  than  any 
general  remarks  that  I  can  make.  The  first 
extract  will  relate  more  particularly  to  a  journey 


smnru  leone. 


189 


from  our  mission  to  Freetown,  a  distance  of 
about  a  luindred  miles. 

Freetown,  Aug.  29. — We  were  obliged  to 
leave  Good  Hope  for  a  short  sojourn  among  the 
hills,  on  account  of  Mrs.  Whiton's  failing  health. 
The  morning  was  cloudy  and  wet,  and  as  we 
bade  good-by  to  the  group  gathered  on  the 
wharf,  a  strange  feeling  of  sadness  crept  over 
us.  We  had  ten  oarsmen,  a  captain,  and  one 
of  the  mission  girls.  Our  little  "  Olive  Branch" 
was  quite  comfortable,  with  its  rain-awning  and 
mattress-cushioned  seats,  pillows,  sliawls,  &c. 
Mrs.  W.  lay  weak  and  sick  on  one  side,  and  I 
sat  on  the  other,  while  trunks  and  boxes  formed 
a  barricade  in  front.  At  "the  Point"  we  an- 
chored for  half  an  hour  for  the  men  to  eat 
breakfast,  and  then,  as  a  breeze  sprung  up,  we 
glided  along  the  island  shore,  passing  now  and 
then  a  village  reposing  among  palms  and  trop- 
ical trees.  About  two  P.  M.  we  passed  Jenkins, 
where  in  1816  Samuel  J.  Mills  came  to  select 
a  spot  for  the  colonization  of  free  colored  peo- 
ple from  the  United  States.  The  first  ship-load 
was  landed  there,  many  of  whom  died  in  a  few. 


190  GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFItlCA. 

weoks  from  the  fever,  brought  on  by  exposure 
and  lack  of  coraforts.  Several  missionaries  who 
accompanied  them  also  sleep  their  last  sleep 
near  the  white  sand  beach  at  Jenkins.  Mourn- 
ful thoughts  filled  my  mind  as  wo  were  passing, 
and  I  felt  thankful  to  God  that  he  had  raised 
up  men  who  were  willing  to  toil,  suffer,  and  die 
as  pioneers  in  the  great  work  of  missions  on 
this  deadly  coast. 

Soon  after  passing  Jenkins  a  strong  head 
wind  set  in,  and  as  the  tide  was  against  us  we 
were  obliged  to  anchor.  The  rain  fell  in  tor- 
rents, and  the  boat  rocked  so  much  that  we  all 
became  sea-sick.  As  darkness  shut  down,  the 
prospect  seemed  discouraging,  for,  though  at 
this  season  we  always  look  for  southerly  winds, 
tiie  breeze  continued  t(5'  blow  strongly  from  the 
north.  The  rain  found  its  Avay  through  the 
awning,  and  pattered  down  upon  our  blankets 
and  mattresses.  At  ten  in  the  night,  when  the 
tide  turned,  I  roused  the  men,  who  were  sleep- 
ing around  a  fire  in  the  bow  of  the  boat  with  a 
sail  spread  over  them,  and  directed  them  to 
take  the  oars.    They  were  reluctant  to  leave 


SIEP.nA  LEONE. 


191 


their  snuggery,  but  by  moans  of  persuasion  and 
coniniand  1  managed  to  get  ten  oars  at  work. 
If  I  chanced  to  sleep  for  an  hour,  the  men  were 
almost  sure  to  stop  pulling ;  but  by  frequent 
shouts  and  persuasions  we  were  able  to  get  for- 
ward at  tolerable  speed.  Morning  found  us  in 
sight  of  Shingy,  with  no  wind  and  a  contrary 
tide.  About  ten  we  landed  at  the  wharf.  The 
water  was  quite  rough,  and  as  the  men  took  us 
in  their  arms  to  carry  us  ashore  they  were 
obliged  to  run  vip  the  beach  to  prevent  our  be- 
ing drenched  by  the  next  wave.  We  walked  to 
the  m.ission-house,  now  empty,  and  rested  in 
the  cool,  airy  sitting-room.  Shingy  is  beaiiti- 
fuUy  situated  on  a  high  point,  and  enjoys  a  fine 
sea  breeze.  The  native  town  is  some  di.stance 
oiT,  but  quite  large.  In  front  you  gaze  over  the 
boundless  ocean,  and  in  a  clear  day  can  see  the 
Banana  Islands  and  the  mountains  of  Sierra 
Leone. 

About  noon  we  started  across  Yawry  Bay 
with  a  splendid  breeze  from  tlie  north-west. 
We  found  the  water  quite  rough,  but  the 
"  Olive  Branch  "  bounded  from  wave  to  wave, 


192  GLIiirSES  OF  WEST  AFIilCA. 

flinging  the  spray  from  her  bow,  and  in  threo 
hours  we  were  at  Kent.  The  view  in  crossing 
the  bay  was  delightful.  The  sun  shone  brightly 
on  the  heaving  waters ;  the  low,  level  coast 
back  of  the  bay  was  visible  now  and  then ;  the 
lofty  mountains  of  Sierra  Leone  rose  grandly 
in  front ;  and  the  Banana  Islands  lay  lilce  green 
gems  in  the  shining  sea.  As  we  glided  swiftly 
along  under  full  sail,  we  had  a  fine  view  of 
Kent,  lying  in  quiet  beauty  on  the  hill-side.  In 
passing  the  reef  we  came  near  going  ashore 
through  the  carelessness  of  owv  captain.  The 
huge  breakers  tossed  our  boat  like  a  dry  leaf, 
but  soon  we  rounded  the  point,  and  glided  up 
to  the  beach  between  two  rocky  ledges. 

Next  morning  we  continued  our  voyage. 
With  a  light  breeze  we  crept  along  the  coast, 
passing  one  after  another  the  green  mountains 
and  peaceful  villages.  York  is  the  largest  town 
in  the  vicinity,  and  lies  on  the  side  of  a  high 
hill,  presenting  a  beautiful  appearance  as  the 
traveler  passes  in  a  boat.  Tlie  summits  of 
some  of  the  mountains  were  vailed  in  clouds, 
and  occasionally  a  light  shower  passed  along 


SIERRA  LEONE. 


193 


their  sides.  The  wind  at  length  veered  to  the 
north,  and  our  progress  was  slow.  Just  before 
dark  wc  passed  False  Cape.  The  tide  was  low, 
and  the  heavy  ocean  swells  dashed  in  foaming 
fury  against  the  huge  black  rocks  that  line  the 
cape.  As  we  were  passing,  the  setting  sun 
came  out  in  glory,  tinging  the  water  and  dis- 
tant hills  with  beauty.  The  night-shadows  soon 
gathered  around,  and  we  rapidly  neared  Cape 
Sierra  Leone.  The  light  from  the  great  lan- 
tern in  tlie  tower  shone  far  out  at  sea,  and  faint 
glimmerings  on  the  hills  told  us  where  the  vil- 
lages were  situated.  About  ten  o'clock  we 
landed  at  Eang  Jimmy's  wharf  in  Freetown, 
and  passing  up  a  flight  of  stone  steps,  we  found 
ourselves  in  the  midst  of  more  civilization  than 
we  had  seen  for  many  long  months. 

September  2. — Last  Sunday  morning  dawned 
wet  and  rainy,  but  as  the  hour  for  service  ap- 
proached, the  sun  came  out,  and  made  walking 
more  tolerable.  I  fulfilled  a  preaching  engage- 
ment at  a  Wesleyan  church  in  Rawdon  Street. 
Tlie  chapel  has  a  very  humble  exterior ;  low, 
stone  walls,  and  a  roof  of  bamboo  thatch. 
13 


194 


CLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 


Within,  it  is  plain,  but  spacious  and  comfort- 
able. We  found  only  a  small  audience  assem- 
bled, but  others  came  in  during  prayers.  The 
congregation  were  very  attentive.  One  old 
woman  I  particularly  noticed ;  she  sat  in  a  cor- 
ner, the  tears  rolling  down  her  checks,  while 
now  and  then  a  smothered  sob  escaped  her. 
Others  seemed  much  affected,  and  I  trust  the 
Holy  Spirit  was  present.  I  was  deeply  inter- 
ested with  my  morning  experience  in  that 
humble  thatched  chapel. 

In  the  eve  I  spoke  again  in  the  Lady  Hunt- 
ingdon Chapel.  The  rain  was  falling,  but  a 
goodly  number  gathered.  This  chapel  is  much 
more  imposing  in  appearance  than  the  Wcsley- 
an.  Galleries  extend  across  three  sides,  and 
the  body  of  the  church  is  somewhat  ornamented. 
It  was  brilliantly  lighted,  and  the  music  was 
both  instrumental  and  vocal. 

On  Saturday  I  enjoyed  a  pleasant  walk  to 
Fourah  Bay,  where  a  college  for  the  education 
of  native  youths  has  been  established  by  the 
English  Church  Missionary  Society.  I  was  cor- 
dially received  by  the  President,  and  conducted 


sirnr.A  leose. 


195 


over  the  building.  Tlie  piazzas  and  balls  are 
large  and  airy ;  the  library  cozy  and  American- 
like ;  and  the  students'  rooms  reminded  me  of 
my  own  early  school-days.  The  gromids  arc 
pleasantly  laid  out,  and  a  fine  sea  bi-eeze  comes 
from  the  water.  In  the  distance  rise  lofty  moun- 
tains, dotted  here  and  there  with  cvdtivated  farms 
and  villages  :  the  beautiful  city  of  Freetown  is 
iu  full  view,  while  far  away  stretches  the  bound- 
less ocean ;  and  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river 
lies  the  long,  low  BuUom  shore.  The  road  from 
Freetown  to  Fourah  Bay  is  delightful.  Fii-?t 
we  pass  down  Kissy  Road,  the  Broadway  of  the 
place,  which  is  lined  with  shops  full  of  gay-col- 
ored goods,  cloths,  beads,  earthen  ware,  and 
an  endless  vai'iety  of  articles.  Pedestrians,  in 
every  variety  of  dress  that  mauy-costumed 
Afi-ica  can  show,  throng  the  street,  or  stand  at 
the  sho|>-doors,  di-iving  bargains  with  the  sales- 
men. It  is  a  strange,  curious  sight  for  foreign 
eyes  to  gaze  upon.  Leaving  Kissy  Road,  we 
pass  over  a  stone  bridge,  under  which  dashes  a 
moimtain  torrent,  and  then  wind  along  a  broad, 
smootli  path,  bordered  with  humble  cottages. 


19G  GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA 

Occasionally  we  catch  a  glimpse  of  the  sea 
through  the  tree-branches,  or  of  the  farms  on 
the  hill-side.  Much  of  the  path  is  shaded  by 
branching  trees,  which  afford  a  cooling  shade 
to  the  tired  traveler. 

Even  barbarous  Africa  is  not  destitute  of  ele- 
gant residences,  as  a  day  at  the  country-house 
of  one  of  the  native  merchants  has  abundantly 
convinced  me.  It  is  beautifully  located  on  the 
sea-shore.  On  one  side  rise  the  mountains  of 
the  interior,  and  on  the  other  you  have  a  view 
of  the  opposite  shore  and  far-stretching  ocean. 
Freetown  and  the  shipping  in  the  harbor  are 
partly  seen  through  the  wealth  of  tropical  foli- 
age. The  house  is  commodious,  and  luxuriant- 
ly furnished.  It  stands  on  a  bluff  many  feet 
above  the  river.  Immense  perpendicular  walls 
of  solid  stone  have  been  built  to  prevent  the  sea 
from  encroaching  upon  the  grounds,  and  a 
flight  of  eighty-one  steps  leads  down  to  the  wa- 
ter's side.  As  I  wandered  through  the  spacious 
saloons  and  elegant  drawing-room,  I  could 
scarcely  realize  that  I  was  in  Africa.    "We  spent 


STEUHA  LEOXE. 


197 


a  pleasant  clay,  and  in  the  evening  attended  a 
prayer-meeting. 

Last  eve,  towards  sunset,  I  took  a  little  walk 
among  the  hills.  Passing  along  Rawdon  Street, 
I  found  myself  in  a  part  of  the  t  jwu  that  I  had 
not  before  visited,  and  yet  a  most  pleasant 
2)Iace.  There  was  an  abundance  of  shrubbery, 
and  now  and  then  a  little  rivulet  dashing  along 
over  its  stony  bed.  Narrow,  shady  lanes,  Ihicd 
with  bamboo  cottages,  branched  out  in  every 
direction.  Soon  I  i-eached  the  foot  of  the  moun- 
tains, and  the  path  grew  very  steep.  It  was 
warm,  toilsome  work  to  ascend,  but  occasionally 
I  paused  to  catch  a  breath  of  cooling  air,  and 
enjoy  a  glimpse  of  the  scenery  below,  which 
every  moment  grow  more  surpassingly  lovely. 
The  path  became  steeper  and  steeper,  but  the 
cool  mountain  air  was  invigorating.  At  length 
I  left  the  Regent  road,  and  turned  up  a  narrow 
patli  through  a  dense  forest.  The  trees  formed 
a  green  arch  above,  and  the  bed  of  the  road  was 
one  mass  of  rock  and  loose  stone.  Sometimes 
the  ascent  was  nearly  perpendicular,  and  next 
I  wound  along  the  edge  of  a  precipice.    A  half 


198 


GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFniCA. 


hour  of  vigorous  "walking  and  scrambling 
brought  me  to  the  top  of  one  of  the  lower 
mountains,  on  which  stands  tlie  country-liouse 
of  a  native  mercliant.  The  view  from  the  sum- 
mit was  grand  and  beautiful,  —  such  as  no  pen 
can  ever  describe.  Far,  far  below  at  my  feet 
lay  the  city  and  harbor,  forming  a  picture  of 
strange  loveliness.  The  houses  seemed  in  min- 
iature, and  as  the  eye  wandered  over  them  it 
could  trace  out  the  different  streets  and  more 
prominent  buildings.  The  pedestrians  below 
looked  like  moving  dolls.  Far  to  the  vfcstward 
lay  tlie  blue  Atlantic,  dotted  here  and  there 
witli  a  snowy  sail ;  and  to  the  right,  like  a  sea 
of  green,  stretched  the  Bullom  shore,  vailed 
with  a  soft  haze.  The  tall  palms  at  the  cape 
were  plainly  seen,  and  in  the  back-ground,  one 
above  another,  rose  the  forest-clad  mountains, 
till  the  eye  rested  on  the  vailed  peak  of  "  Sugar- 
loaf."  I  stood  entranced  by  the  sight,  as  the 
setting  sun  flooded  the  whole  with  a  soft,  rich 
light ;  and  then,  gathering  a  handful  of  flowers, 
I  prepared  to  descend.  This  was  soon  accom- 
plished, and  as  the  evening  shadows  fell  I 


SlEnUA  LEONE. 


199 


threaded  the  quiet  streets  homeward,  not  only 
refreshed  by  the  ramble,  but  with  my  spirit 
inwardly  rejoicing  over  a  new  leaf  in  the  won- 
drous book  of  nature  that  had  just  been  spread 
before  me. 

Saturday. — I  enjoy  very  much  the  pleasant 
walks  through  the  city  and  its  suburbs.  In 
Sherbro  we  have  no  i-oads,  and  the  fine,  smooth 
paths  of  Sierra  Leone,  though  they  would  not 
be  dignified  by  the  name  of  roads  in  America, 
seem  much  like  civilization.  Yesterday  after- 
noon I  visited  the  cemetery  back  of  Tower  Hill, 
and  spent  an  hour  or  two  in  rambling  among 
the  tombs.  The  sun  was  hot,  but  an  umbrella 
tempered  its  rays,  and  an  occasional  rest  under 
some  tree  vras  grateful.  A  few  convicts  from 
the  chain-gang  were  clearing  the  paths,  but 
most  of  the  enclosure  was  overgrown  with  rank 
grass  and  bushes,  —  indeed,  in  the  rains  it  is 
almost  impossible  to  keep  the  grounds  in  toler- 
able order.  There  are  many  monuments  scat- 
tered about,  often  with  no  inscription.  The 
chief  features  of  interest  to  me,  however,  were 
the  graves  of  missionaries,  who  are  buried  bore 


200  GLIMPSES  OF  WIST  AFRICA. 


in  large  numbers.  Some  of  the  graves  are  un- 
marked, but  the  sleeping  dust  beneath  is  watched 
over  by  God,  and  at  the  resurrection  of  the 
just  it  shall  arise  clothed  in  immortality.  Two 
members  of  our  mission  —  the  pioneer  Ray- 
mond and  Mr.  Mair  —  rest  there  ;  but  no  mon- 
ument marks  the  spot,  and  I  was  unable  to 
find  it.  Tlieir  record  is  in  heaven.  I  noticed 
the  graves  of  two  English  bishops,  and  of  many 
Church,  Wesleyan,  and  United  Methodist  mis- 
sionaries. Two  large  white  marble  slabs  mark 
the  resting-place  of  two  young  Americans, — 
one  from  Boston  and  one  from  New  York.  In 
one  part  of  tlie  ground,  under  a  large  tree,  ai'e 
five  monuments,  side  by  side,  wlicrc  lie  the 
bodies  of  five  Roman  Catholic  missionaries,  who 
came  to  the  colony  some  years  ago  to  establish 
their  religion.  They  all  fell  victims  to  the  cli- 
mate a  few  weeks  after  landing.  Many  regarded 
their  sudden  removal  as  a  special  providence  to 
prevent  the  establishment  of  a  false  religion. 

Sept.  6.  —  As  I  was  returning,  the  other  day, 
from  a  visit  at  the  Wesleyan  mission-house,  I 
paused  for  a  few  moments  on  a  largo  stone 


SlEltltA  LEOKE. 


201 


bridge,  and  gazed  up  the  narrow  gorge  towards 
the  mountains.  Far  below  dashed  a  pretty  lit- 
tle stream,  which  is  sometimes  swollen  to  a 
mountain  torrent.  Some  women  and  children 
"were  standing  among  the  rocks,  washing  clothes. 
Along  the  path  on  Avhich  I  stood  was  a  constant 
procession  of  people, — many  of  them  were  re- 
turning to  their  homes  in  the  villages  from  the 
mai^kct,  and  nearly  all  carried  large  blies  on 
their  heads.  A  portion  of  the  town  was  in 
sight,  and  in  the  distance  rose  the  mountains, 
their  sides  dotted  with  farms,  presenting  a  most 
pleasing  landscape. 

I  walked  slowly  homeward,  passing  iip  Kroo- 
town  Road,  which,  like  Kissy,  is  lined  with 
shops  full  of  gay  cloths,  trinkets,  knives,  scis- 
sors, and  almost  everything  imaginable.  The 
sun  shone  brightly,  and  all  the  streets  were 
thronged  with  pedestrians,  presenting  a  biisy 
scone.  Many  of  the  women  wore  flowing  di'esses 
of  bright  calico  of  different  colors,  and  gay  tur- 
bans on  their  heads ;  so  that  as  you  gazed  down 
a  long  street  the  view  was  really  brilliant.  The 
passengers  wore  laughing  and  chattuig  with 


202 


GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 


each  other,  or  driving  bargains  with  the  shop- 
keepers. 

Walking  along  the  streets,  I  turned  my  steps 
toward  the  market.  It  was  Saturday,  the  great 
market-day  of  the  week,  and  the  roar  of  voices 
as  I  approached  was  almost  deafening.  Out- 
side the  walls  was  spread  a  great  variety  of  veg- 
etables and  fruits,  which  the  owners  were  using 
every  effort  to  dispose  of.  Passing  up  to  the 
entrance,  a  most  interesting  sight  met  my  eyes. 
The  long  building  was  crowded  with  people, 
and  every  stand  seemed  groaning  beneath  its 
load.  Tlicre  were  heaps  of  fragrant  oranges, 
and  limes,  and  pine-apples ;  bunches  of  golden 
bananas,  and  long  green  plantains ;  cocoa-nuts, 
African  pears,  sour  and  sweet  sop,  sweet  pota- 
toes, cucumbers,  yams,  cocoa,  eggs,  green  corn, 
water-cresses,  string-beans,  caljbages,  turnips, 
greens,  tomatoes,  etc.  Some  tables  were  filled 
with  beads  of  brilliant  colors,  knives,  and  vari- 
ous knick-knacks;  some  with  small  loaves  of 
bread.  At  one  end  of  the  market  lay  heaps  of 
"  foofoo,"  which  is  made  of  beaten  cassada, 
rolled  in  balls.    This  is  considered  a  groat  del- 


SIERRA  LEONE. 


203 


icacy  by  tlio  natives,  but  would  hardly  tompt 
the  appetite  of  a  foreigner.  But  I  was  not  per- 
mitted to  make  my  survey  in  quiet.  The  a[)- 
pcarancc  of  a  white  face  is  always  the  signal  for 
redoubled  efforts  on  the  part  of  the  market- 
women  to  dispose  of  their  articles.  "  Master!" 
"  Master ! "  "  Master ! "  came  from  every  side, 
and  samples  of  fruit  and  vegetables  were  thrust 
before  mo.  If  I  had  been  a  stranger  I  might 
have  lost  my  self-possession  amid  the  confusion, 
but  I  had  so  often  been  in  the  same  position, 
that  I  merely  shook  my  head  or  uttered  a  quiet 
"  No "  to  their  importunities,  and  examined 
the  tables  at  my  leisure. 

Freetown,  Sept.  15. — Last  week  "Wednesday 
morning  we  left  on  our  intended  trip  to  the 
mountains.  At  dawn  it  was  quite  rainy,  but 
the  blue  sky  soon  appeared,  and  gave  token  of 
a  favorable  day.  Our  procession,  as  it  left  the 
yard  and  wound  mountain-ward,  was  thus :  first, 
Mrs.  W.  in  a  palanquin,  with  two  faithful  car- 
riers ;  next  myself,  followed  by  our  man  John, 
balancing  a  tin  trunk  on  his  head  ;  and  finally 
Ellen,  one  of  the  mission-girls.    Soon  we  left 


204 


GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 


tliG  noisy  streets  and  shady  lanes  of  Freetown, 
and  began  to  climb  the  steep  mountain-paths. 
The  scenery  was  very  beautiful.  One  moment 
the  eye  rested  on  cloud-capped  peaks,  rocky 
gorges,  roaring  torrents,  and  steep  precipices ; 
and  the  next  on  gently-sloping  hill-sides  and 
lovely  sun-lit  valleys. 

But  it  was  not  all  romance,  for  climbing  pre- 
cipitous mountain-paths  under  a  torrid  s;in  is 
by  no  means  play.  Behold  me,  toiling  up  the 
rocks,  an  umbrella  in  one  hand,  and  my  hat, 
which  I  use  as  a  fan,  in  the  other,  exclaiming 
one  moment,  "How  beautiful!"  and  the  next, 
"  Oh  how  hot ! "  As  we  ascended,  the  air  grew 
purer  and  cooler,  and  the  sun  was  obscured  by 
clouds.  Occasionally  we  sat  down  on  some 
rock  to  rest,  and  let  imagination  have  full  play 
as  we  drank  in  the  beauties  of  the  scene. 

By  and  by  we  descended  to  the  romantic  lit- 
tle village  of  Gloucester.  Its  thatched  houses 
arc  perched  on  steep  hill-sides  and  in  narrow 
gorges,  surrounded  by  cultivated  patches.  A 
pretty  stream  goes  dashing  over  the  rocks.  As 
we  crossed  the  stone  bridge  and  wound  up  a 


SIERRA  LEONE. 


205 


sliady  path,  I  might  almost  have  imagined  my- 
self ill  a  New  England  forest  road,  had  it  not 
been  for  the  broad  leaves  of  the  banana  and 
plantain,  and  the  groves  of  palm  and  cocoa 
that  everywhere  met  the  eye. 

Passing  over  another  mountain,  we  came  to 
Regent,  a  village  containing  some  fifteen  hun- 
dred inhabitants.  It  is  built  on  both  sides  of 
a  beautiful  stream,  and  surrounded  on  every 
side  by  lofty  mountains.  The  highest  peak  is 
Sugar-loaf,  which  is  much  of  the  time  vailed 
in  clouds.  We  were  most  cordially  received  by 
the  native  pastor,  Rev.  George  Nicol,  whose 
wife  is  a  daughter  of  the  celebrated  Bishop 
Crowther,  and  a  day  in  that  romantic  and  beau- 
tiful village  was  full  of  interest. 

On  Thursday  we  visited  Charlotte,  four  miles 
further.  The  scenery,  if  possible,  was  still 
grander  than  that  of  the  previous  day.  The 
paths  were  quite  slippery  from  recent  rains,  and 
it  required  considerable  exertion  to  maintain 
one's  footing.  "We  passed  the  pretty  village  of 
Bathurst,  following  the  course  of  a  mountain 
stream,  bordered  with  tropical  foliage  and  gor- 


20G 


GLIMPSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 


goous  flowers.  Two  or  three  waterfalls  were 
in  sight  among  the  hills.  At  Cliarlotte  we 
found  a  large  girls'  school  for  liberated  Afri- 
cans. The  pujjils  numbered  upwards  of  a  hun- 
dred, and  are  not  only  taught  the  common  Eng- 
lish branches,  but  arc  particularly  instructed  in 
industrial  pursuits.  Such  a  work  requires  much 
patience  on  the  part  of  missionaries,  but  it  is  a 
blessed  cause. 

We  left  Charlotte  Friday  noon  on  our  return 
to  town  by  way  of  Wilberforce.  It  was  a  briglit 
day,  and  most  of  the  mountain-peaks  were  un- 
vailed.  The  path  lay  over  high  table-lands, 
and  the  vievys  of  land  and  sea  were  enchanting. 
Yf  0  rested  at  Wilberforce  till  nearly  sundown. 
It  is  a  pretty  village  on  a  mountain,  in  full  view 
of  Freetown  and  the  harbor.  Both  the  English 
Church  and  Wesleyans  have  mission  stations 
here.  We  joined  our  good  friend.  Rev.  Mr. 
Oaiger,  in  a  pic-nic  dinner  and  pleasant  ramble 
over  the  town.  In  the  cool  of  the  evening  the 
palanquin-carriers  trotted  swiftly  homeward. 
As  we  left  the  quiet  outskirts  of  the  city  and 
entered  Krootown  Road,  the  noise  seemed  deaf- 


SIEItRA  LEONE. 


207 


eniiig.  The  street  was  thronged  with  pedestri- 
ans, talking,  screaming,  and  laughing,  and  the 
carriers  at  almost  every  step  were  compelled  to 
shout  to  them  to  clear  the  way.  It  was  quite 
dark  when  we  arrived,  much  pleased  with  our 
trip  among  the  mountains. 

Sierra  Leone  is  certainly  a  wonderful  exam- 
ple of  what  can  be  accomplished  through  God's 
blessing  on  missionary  labor.  There  arc  nearly 
a  hundred  churches,  and  more  than  twenty 
thousand  church-members,  in  the  colony.  Sab- 
bath and  day  schools  are  everywhere  established ; 
also  academies,  female  seminaries,  and  one  coL 
lege.  Colored  policemen  patrol  the  streets ; 
colored  lawyers  plead  at  the  bar  ;  colored  pas- 
tors preach  to  colored  audiences ;  and  colored 
editors  write  for  colored  readers. 

The  Sabbath  is  better  observed  in  Sierra  Le- 
one than  in  many  American  cities.  The  peo- 
ple are  regular  in  their  attendance  at  the  house 
of  God,  and  reverential  in  their  deportment. 
Of  course  there  is  much  wickedness,  but  still 
the  changes  there  have  been  wonderful.  Where 
once  tlie  cloud  of  heathenism  brooded  so  lieav- 


208 


CLlMrSES  OF  WEST  AFRICA. 


ily,  tho  Sabbath  bell  now  sends  forth  its  glad 
sound.  Where  the  human  victim  lay  bleeding 
on  the  altar,  now  ascends  tho  daily  sacrifice  of 
prayer  and  praise.  And  year  by  year  this  bles- 
sed light  is  spreading  towards  the  tribes  yet 
farther  inland. 


THE  END. 


I 


